Photo show TDC and just how close the seals is to were the leading plug is.
If your running 9 deg of timing at the e shaft your running 3 deg at the rotor. Now add in some timing drift, say 6 degs. That's another 2 deg closer to TDC. Now throw in how long the spark is. Now your after TDC. Dyno's do not build heat as does track time. Now if your waste spark plug does not cool in time before the seal travels over the leading plug. guess what happens. As HP increase so does heat. With waste spark, plug temps are very important. I've heard that some guys with the PFC that have pushed good power have use another timing ECU with direct fire.
Theory could be total garbage but it's theory.

above 600hp there are motor mods that needs to be done to help prevent possible damage from e shaft flex.

If you want, I can resurface your housing for you.

 

What kind of mods? Larger studs?

 

again, this is just my opinion......... I know there are other ways to do things. I can not afford sending motors to some one to balance and rotor clearance so I came up with these mods. all mods done at home.

 

Chuck is the man with the plan, running 9's on a low budget car. Awesome ideas this man has.

 

Yep.... he is pretty good!

 

I can't believe your motor has lasted this long with the abuse you have given it- proves that rotaries can last if setup is on. So many people give the rotary a bad name when 99.9% it's because of improper setup and build/tune

 

Yeah, I felt the rotary gods were watching over me. If I get half the passes on the next motor I will be thrilled.

 

Awesome tips in here, there if also the clearancing of the rotor face where it gets close to the tips oft the rotor housing, not refering to what Chuck posted but the high spots aroung the bathtub, I know Goopy offers this as well.

 

You can see Mike's rotors made contact in the same area. First image below was stolen out of one of Skern's videos. It appears they take off a lot less material than what Goopy is doing, in the second image taken from their FB page.

 

I just noticed the little scallop on the Skern rotor.

 

these are the same tips i give for the budget racers, running heavy rotating assemblies at high revs.

no matter where you set your rev cut it's simply too easy to overshoot a hard limiter and that is where things begin to contact one another. with clearancing the engine will survive.

except for the bottom tip, which reduces clearance versus adding more and goes against the previous work. thinned out housings are simply junk piled. unless you mean the chrome face, but i don't see how that is feasable either.

 

Beat your chest dude!

 

Just a quick info regarding the rotors in the pic, for those that are looking and dreaming of a face clearanced rotor.

The rotors in the pic are S4 rotor, this series of rotors have the most meat on the bone. Hence why you see so many shops cutting in to them. Now do not think that the s5 and up rotors can be machined like in the second pic. unless its going on your wall with a clock in to it.

Hope that helps those in question..

Thanks
Chip U

 

+2
I run the S4 TII rotors and all machine work done by Carol of CLR Motorsports in Miami, Fl.

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

 

Meant Carlos*

Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club

 

true, the s6 rotors are only 1/8th thick or so. But guys are still taking off some. Not near what the above pic shows.

 

And I would think those rotors pictured are for a 1000hp motor.

 

Looks to me line the Skern rotor is about what Mike would of needed in his engine to avoid the rotor contact he had. The Goopy rotor; I can believe you'd ever want that much clearance. Any squish band you had is gone.

 

Just increase the boost to get back the "squish band ". Or effective compression ratio.

My current motor has around 90 1/4 mile passes all above 130 mph. around 25 in the 150mhp range in the last 6 or 7 months. Rotor housing have been resurfaced because they did sustain damage from the rotors hitting the housing. So bad that the rotors are junk. Stuck side seals.

Increasing (more) clearance between rotors and housing is a must. High rpm has nothing to do with rotors contacting the housings. It's the power that flexes the e shaft. The big dawgs are cutting rotor as the ones in the photos and still running a two piece e shaft with the center bearing.

 

cmoyer51's Library | Photobucket

Photos of some rotor housing that have been resurfaced. Set A is my current housings. Set B is in another car currently running. The other 3 sets are awaiting a home.

50$ for two housing. If you have a set of housings about to go in the trash, 50$ is worth it. The three set shown came out very good. On two housing at the trailing plug still show some wear marks. They are very shallow and can be cleaned up. Did not want to go any deeper at this time. There good enough for a good rebuild. IF going in my car the marks will be completely fixed and smooth.
As long as they dont have gauges from broken seals. Rotors hitting the housing is fixable and housing that show wear from lack of lubrication are fixable. I see others charging 125$ for one housing. That is crazy!

 

The term squish might be misleading and is my bad. Quench is more widely used and it is something that has nothing to do with effective compression ratio.

 

I keep adding stuff to my list of things I want to do with my next motor!
Looks like around $15K to build one that will rev to 12K and hold 700 RWHP!
Anybody want to sponsor me?

 

Squish Band / Quench - MitsuStyle

Not sure if I ever heard the phrase quensh band so I had to look it up

 

I was going to start a build thread but decided to just leave it all in here since it shows my past build. First I want to mention some of the parts I will be using from sponsors:

1. First off I am making the swap to a 440 universal Adaptronic ECU. Thanks to Elliot @ www.turblown.com Much more options and No more wasted spark for me!

2. Also want to mention I am going to have Chris Ludwig with lms-efi.com build me a replacement harness to get rid of the old brittle stock one. The less I have to worry about bad connections and such.

3. TNT fuel starve elininator kit. No more running 12-15gallons of fuel. I think this will be a be hit for us drag racers running in tank pumps. http://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-cen...r-hpp-1041287/



The motor is going back together with the same ports as before, med-lrg streetport. RX8 E-shaft, ALS seals again, balanced, cleranced rotors and pinned or with studs. Still up in the air on e98 or q16. Might look into the flex sensor for adaptronic and see if both e85 for the street and e98 for the track is an option. Of course Ray Wilson will be tuning it again. We might try and run a s475 11 wheel on it to compare on the dyno per Addicted Performance.

More later:

 

All the right parts!! Love it