fFinally starting on my rear end, I have a few questions...
07-06-11, 01:08 PM
#1
fFinally starting on my rear end, I have a few questions...
1st gen, all motor stock chassis car
I am using a ford 8.8 from a fox body Mustang. The 4-links will be in pretty much the stock location. But I will not be using the watts link set up. I will be using a panhard bar to locate the rear. And instead of the stock shock/spring location. I will be using a small coilover set up similar to tubbed and chassis cars.
Is there any other coil over brands with high quality and adjustability other than qa1? Strange, competition engineering?
The fuel cell will be in the engine bay and the car will be stripped obviously. So about how much weight will be over my rear wheels? I'm trying to decide on a spring rate for the coilovers. I am guessing 1100-1200lbs. And going off of qa1's site, that means I should be using 110lbs./in rate springs. Does this sound right?
Here are a few coilover setups i'm looking at right now. I'm taking suggestions, tips, or mix and match ideas.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-15-0039/?rtype=10
I believe this is that same as the set up on the qa1 site for almost 100 bucks cheaper...
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/DR5110K/10002/-1
I am using a ford 8.8 from a fox body Mustang. The 4-links will be in pretty much the stock location. But I will not be using the watts link set up. I will be using a panhard bar to locate the rear. And instead of the stock shock/spring location. I will be using a small coilover set up similar to tubbed and chassis cars.
Is there any other coil over brands with high quality and adjustability other than qa1? Strange, competition engineering?
The fuel cell will be in the engine bay and the car will be stripped obviously. So about how much weight will be over my rear wheels? I'm trying to decide on a spring rate for the coilovers. I am guessing 1100-1200lbs. And going off of qa1's site, that means I should be using 110lbs./in rate springs. Does this sound right?
Here are a few coilover setups i'm looking at right now. I'm taking suggestions, tips, or mix and match ideas.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-15-0039/?rtype=10
I believe this is that same as the set up on the qa1 site for almost 100 bucks cheaper...
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/DR5110K/10002/-1
07-09-11, 12:47 PM
#9
I am currently running a Granny's Speed Shop For 8.8 on my FB. I am using the stock mounting locations with polyurethane upper links and Heim Joint lower adjustable links. I am using Tokiko Illumina Adjustables with GSLSE Eibach springs no sway bar. So far the car hooks up real good but am waiting another 2 weeks for the next track day.
How could I install coil overs back there without losing the fuel cell?
How could I install coil overs back there without losing the fuel cell?
07-09-11, 01:01 PM
#10
Put the coilovers in the normal location for 4-link set ups. (like in the pic) Then either get a smaller fuel cell or move it back slightly for them it fit. There should be enough room for your cell.
Not my set up. This is a grannys set up but had the coilovers added later on...
Not my set up. This is a grannys set up but had the coilovers added later on...
07-09-11, 04:31 PM
#12
Suggestion on rearend mods
You can spend the extra money on the coilovers and adjustable links as described above. But the reality is all the stock locations work just fine. I am no suspension expert and like everyone else always on a budget. You can get away with just making stronger links for strength because the stock locations hook with a good slick.
I have a 1985 GSL-SE with a Chevy 12-bolt and my best 60 ft. times are low 1.30 to 1.32 consistently. I have stock shocks and springs all in the original location. I played with the bump stops cut the springs down to get the desired travel. My goal was to only get 1 in. of travel so I could bottom out on the rearend after the car dropped 1 in. The watts link was upgraded to a bigger diameter rod but that is also in the original location on the chassis also.
My suggestion would be to keep it simple. Sometimes we have a tendancy to over engineer something that was already good to be begin with.
Good Luck
I have a 1985 GSL-SE with a Chevy 12-bolt and my best 60 ft. times are low 1.30 to 1.32 consistently. I have stock shocks and springs all in the original location. I played with the bump stops cut the springs down to get the desired travel. My goal was to only get 1 in. of travel so I could bottom out on the rearend after the car dropped 1 in. The watts link was upgraded to a bigger diameter rod but that is also in the original location on the chassis also.
My suggestion would be to keep it simple. Sometimes we have a tendancy to over engineer something that was already good to be begin with.
Good Luck
07-09-11, 05:21 PM
#13
Very good point. And plenty of people get very good times with factory IRS in the FC and even the stock GSLSE rear in the 1st gen. But when tenths of a second (or less) define the win, loss, or record time... these things start to matter.
So, no one has a recommendation on coilovers or a spring rate for me? Or did I get it just right with the qa1's with a 110 spring rate and don't need the advice...?
So, no one has a recommendation on coilovers or a spring rate for me? Or did I get it just right with the qa1's with a 110 spring rate and don't need the advice...?
07-10-11, 01:46 AM
#14
no liberty for me yet, but i got a little something in the works 
I bought the ******* housing 2wks ago, car is sitting on jacks with nothing in the back
, I even took of the doors, hood, and some **** off the motor.After 6 pairs of broken axles, and a driver side blown shock, and close call with wall, I got tired of pushing my **** on the trailer...lol
Now I' am getting anxious, I called granny on Friday for a tracking number, they told me it ships out next week around Tuesday Wednsday.
Right now im just building the 3rd member, just bought the spool, ring&pinion
Tell me about those broken axles get old after a while
Put the coilovers in the normal location for 4-link set ups. (like in the pic) Then either get a smaller fuel cell or move it back slightly for them it fit. There should be enough room for your cell.
Not my set up. This is a grannys set up but had the coilovers added later on...
Not my set up. This is a grannys set up but had the coilovers added later on...
9"
07-12-11, 04:41 PM
#19
I have a good friend that has Koni double adj. on his dragster. I did some dyno testing on them for him, they looked pretty good on paper. The adjusters actually did something lol.
I don't know what kind of valving works for drag racing, sorry.
As for the shocks placement. I would keep them as wide as your tires will allow. You get some chassis roll resistance from them so the wider the mounting points, the better. Having them vertical takes some of the math out of the design, and having them as close to the axle centerline as you can helps with wheel rates(not spring rates, what the wheel actually sees) Having 1" of wheel travel equal 1" of shock and spring travel keeps things simple.
I don't know what kind of valving works for drag racing, sorry.
As for the shocks placement. I would keep them as wide as your tires will allow. You get some chassis roll resistance from them so the wider the mounting points, the better. Having them vertical takes some of the math out of the design, and having them as close to the axle centerline as you can helps with wheel rates(not spring rates, what the wheel actually sees) Having 1" of wheel travel equal 1" of shock and spring travel keeps things simple.
08-18-11, 06:59 PM
#22
Yo what up sent, how is your project coming along? Do you have just a dedicated thread for you build? I would like to see the process...
I got my 9 installed weeks ago, Just haven't taken pics yet.
ordered the ring/pinion and spool and the bearing kit as well...
I got my 9 installed weeks ago, Just haven't taken pics yet.
ordered the ring/pinion and spool and the bearing kit as well...
08-18-11, 07:49 PM
#23
I took a few pics of mine. Just havnt posted them yet. But I was trying to fit my weld pro stars on today, and noticed the Strange axles are not 4x4.5 (4x114.3). So now i have to re drilling them... Sucks cause the rear is already built...
No build thread yet. Didn't want to start one until the rear is in and the from end was completed. So I have something worth posting.
No build thread yet. Didn't want to start one until the rear is in and the from end was completed. So I have something worth posting.
