hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys I'm getting in my half bridge this week and will be bolting up my t70, alky injection, lt10, fuel cell, bosch 044 fuel pump, (kenne bell boost a pump if needed), etc... etc... One thing I haven't done yet is touched suspension. Was wondering what some good setups would be for an IRS FC. I don't have the ford 9" yet but will get there one day but for now I need to get some good springs and shocks. I'm dumping my heavy oz racing rims and getting some stock tII rims and will mount some et streets in the rear as well as use spares up front. So far by searching I've found that:

1) I shouldn't drop the tire pressure below 12 or so with IRS.
2) you need a stiffer spring to compensate for the IRS.
3) you want to keep pressure in the front shocks high while keeping it sort of low in the rear

(any other tips would be great!)

Anyways just wondering what you guys with fc's or I guess even fd's would do on a stock rear end to help those et streets bite. I'm not ritch so I would like to stay away from coilovers if I can. Thanks for any help yall can give.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

anyone?

enzo250

how much are you willing to spend?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

really whatever it takes to get my car to bite. I just don't want to spend too much because that money could go to a ford 9". What are you thinking?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

also what size et street is recommended for stock tII rims. Thanks.

Busted7

I know the 10.5 et's fit but i dont know if 11.5's do with out rolling the finders. Are you running t11 diff if not you atleast need that diff the 7" diff is not that strong and breaks easy. They make a rear steer elimiminater that helps keep it straight. Its been awile sinse i had a t11.

enzo250

Well i designed a custom set of QA1 drag shocks for my FC.

I can get you into a set for around 2k.
that's front&rear shocks with springs and camber plates.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Well I appreciate that but again if I spent 2k on that why not just spend the extra grand or so and get the ford 9" etc.. etc..

yeah it's a TII so it's got the tII driveshaft, tII diff, tII tranny, etc... etc... So you would go 10.5's on the et streets? Thanks for chiming in man it means alot. Seems like people are staying away from this thread like the plegue or something. lol.
Anyways thanks again.

Busted7

I dont think its you but some of us that like to drag race and are not part of the big time just dont draw the attention some of the more learned racers do. They have paid there dues and cant spend the time to educate all of us that are still learning. They will when they have the time and feel it will help. Thay have helped me when it was the most important. I try to share in your intrest since im in about the same spot your in. But i dont want to mislead or advise you incorectly. But i know the 10.5 et's are the best for your set up at this time. My t11 at this time has ford 9" with 29.5 10.5 w's on 12x15 bogarts, but its not running yet. Any way good luck, and get that thing to the track.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again for your post and yeah I figured it was either that or people just didn't like me around these parts Oh well I'm here to stay so if it's like that then oh well I'm still not going anywhere, lol. Anyways so thanks again on tire size. Now we have that ( 26/10.5/16 ). Now on to the suspension. I got a pm from (a very nice guy) saying that worn out shocks and springs are just fine in the front and can even be fine in the rear but if you get to much squat in the rear to just through some new shocks. I will go ahead and take off the front sway bar as this is not going to be any sort of street car and will be a track only car after the short break in.

basically this is what the guy said in the pm and hey man if you want to get in on this conversation then please do so man!

I just wanted to chime in and give my advice.

front:
remove front sway bar... leave stock suspension alone (high mileage worn out front shocks/springs are the perfect). Run aluminum stock 16x4 front spares with motorcycle tires from eBay (make sure they are load and speed rated bias ply tires) $50/each tires 135/75/16 or something like that
* remove front bumper support (saves 20#'s)

rear: you need toe eliminator bushings ($60 or so) *must have
FD rims (16x8) with small spacer
26x10.5" MT slick (remember to run bias ply front and rear or you will get weird handling at speed)
stock rear shocks/springs should be fine... if you are getting too much squat or not 60'ing well... then put on new shocks.


Thanks again for the help. I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row when I go to the track as they have some pretty fast v8's there running some fast times that love to make fun of imports so I would like to represent the rotary out there

American Rice

another thing buddy is your tire size. If you had 15" rims instead of 16 you would have that extra inch of tires instead of rims to help "bite" when launching. but good to see someone else with skinnies up front. And if you get an adjustable rear camber it will help alot when combined with them DTSS elminators. See rx-7s when you launch them the tires to this /--------\ instead of staying like this |--------|. By adjust your camber and the use of them DTSS you will have more of your tire on the ground when you launch! And it would be better to have stiffer shocks/springs/struts up front then in the back. That way it will help you push more weight back to your rear end when launching. What size is your torque converter? What rpm's are you able to launch at

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice. I've got a manual transmission with an act 6puck and heavy duty pressure plate. I'm lookin' at the differant year model rims and all the 16's are 7 inches wide and all the 15's are 6 inches wide so I think the wider and taller would be better but they do have a convertable rim that is a 15x6.5 that I could get that would only be a half an inch thinner than the tII. I'm going to hold off on ordering anything else until I get the motor in and everything for that done. Once it's done and running then I'm going to start buying suspension parts like the dtss elimonators and any shocks and springs I may need ( I will buy the rims soon though ). I haven't desided on what I'm going to do as far as launch yet as that will just have to come with experiance. I also don't know if I'm going to be running a 2step or not on launch.

edit: ok just a recap of what I may need.

. 10.5 et streets
. spare rims up front with correct tires
. dtss elimonators
. I should probably just get shocks and spings all the way around but get them adjustable so I can play around with it.
. track time

Would solid or delrin differential mounts be something good to get? I've already got the mmr engine mounts and tranny mounts but figured if there is all this load going on the differntial then maybe some good mounts are in order. THanks.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

pfft my FD will be done before your FC!

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol whats up man? Haven't heard from you in years! hows everything? you still living in BR? Hows the fd?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I hate BR. FD's slowly coming along. It's got carpet, a working set of turbos, most of the interior fixed, and a lot of wiring taken care of. Still needs paint, core support, fenders, hood, sunroof, and some exhaust work. Oh and some seats...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol at that rate I'll be done first, haha j/k Anyways you will never guess. I desided to take the leap and go all out with the car. I gutted the interior (witch made for very easily seeing the crapy wiring job I did ) So I rewired everything and started taking everything out under the dash etc... now on to taking the sound deadening material out this weekend Hopefully my bdc half bridge will be in as well so I may be stabing that in as well as changing to solid motor mounts and tranny mounts. LOts to do!

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Haha, the FD was pretty much gutted last week. It's getting closer I guess, still a lot left as far as body-shop wise. Not sure if I want to pull the engine and paint the engine bay at the same time as the rest of the car.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you gotta drive that thing over one of these days. Have a bbq or something.

Busted7

If you want a better tire for the 16'' spares for drag only m/h tires makes a 16'' front runner. What type computer are you using?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I"m using a microtech lt10. are those tires as harsh on the drive train as drag radials? Very interested though. Not planing on doing anything else besides drag this car so anything you have please let me know

Busted7

The et's are more flexing than drag radials and will help to keep axles and diff from breaking. The m/h front runners are bias tires as are the et's and will handle better at speed. I would start a 15 psi on the et's it will be more stable on the big end, but if your spinning you can lower them in small incroments. The front runners should be aired to the max recomended psi.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

interesting, those will be the ones I use up front then. What's the recommended size for the spare rims? Thanks again for the info man you've been a big help! I'll have to make one of the sponser names on my car busted7

edit: I guess I'll call summit or jegs for the tires. All I'm seeing is 26x10.5x15's. nevermind http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_47024_-1

Busted7

Use the stock fc spares 5 bolt they are made by enki and are pretty lite plus they fit the brake offset and bolt on with no problems. Do you know how to remove the tar sound deadning?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well I've heard there is three ways to do it.

. torch
. dry ice
. air chisel

Witch do you prefer?

Busted7

The dry ice is alot less messy. Put the dry ice were your going to work and place a damp towel over it to consentrate the freezing let it set you will have to test and then wack the **** out of it with a hammer or dead blow. By the time your done you will be an expert. Also a scraper or screwdriver will help. How lite are you trying to go?