drag suspension help.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: louisiana
Thanks for the tip on that. I think the hardest thing is going to be trying to find the dry ice in my small *** town. Once I find it, hopefully should be ok. I would like to get it pretty light. I do understand though that it's no first gen so getting it that light will be hard. I've had this second gen for along time so I've got this strange loyalty to it. One day I will get lexan or plexi glass windows. I think I could get them pre cut at grannys speed shop but it's expensive over there. I took out alot of weight reasantly with the blower motor, evaporator, leather seats, interior. I still have to take out all the top interior and the door panels and some how convert to manual windows. My doors I can tell are heavy as all hell. How far have you gone?
Ford 9'' 4 link with 29.5 10.5 ww slicks bogart 12x15 fly stars. full lexan. 12 point cage tubed back half. aluminun dash kirky seat 5 point harness. fd block gslse pan 83 distributor two pro 10 jacoub ings, elect water pump, fan and griffin rad. 3 mm seals big street port, alk 1435 cfm injection mech. fuel injection. jatco 3 speed auto with blanket and 3800 stall. Probley need 5500/ 6000 stall. I had a 653 supercharger but the bearings failed at 18,000 rpms 28 lbs boost. Im going turbo as the money comes in$$ It has three fuel pumps and painless wireing. I have only driven it at the track to the porta pot and then seized the bearings in the blower! It weighs about 2400 lbs. The 93 is less of a pain to have fun with.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
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From: louisiana
lol damn I would love to see some pics of that second gen, sounds like a beast! and 2400 lbs is not bad at all for a second gen! You got any good (cheap) places to get that lexan? How long have you been at this and at what point did you say **** it! I'm going ford 9"? What turbo are you planning on running? Anyways yeah would love to see some pics just to give me some inspiration
lexan
lexan
I was reluctant to chime in because i have no IRS experience. If it is going to be a dedicated track car why not go with a solid axle. You could build a ladder bar setup for less than you think if you have a welder and a little fab skills. It just seems to be counter productive to prefect an IRS setup only to overpower it 6 months down the road. Also IMO a 9" is way overkill!! You can go with a much lighter and more efficient diff like a 8.8 Ford, 8 3/4 Chrysler, 10 bolt Chevy.
And thats my $.02
And thats my $.02
you can fit a mickey thompson drag radial of 235/15/60 on a stock rim bud !!! And I am going to use weld racing pro star 15x8 inch rims and have probably 255/15/60 on it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and those are the fronts and you already have the tires for the skinnies up front also. These rims are alot lighter then stockers also which will help you out!
and those are the fronts and you already have the tires for the skinnies up front also. These rims are alot lighter then stockers also which will help you out!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
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From: louisiana
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and those are the fronts and you already have the tires for the skinnies up front also. These rims are alot lighter then stockers also which will help you out!
and those are the fronts and you already have the tires for the skinnies up front also. These rims are alot lighter then stockers also which will help you out!
Well only problem with putting straight slicks on is I don't want to break anything (if at all possible). And while slicks are great and bite hard they also have a tendency, from what I've heard, to break things.
I was reluctant to chime in because i have no IRS experience. If it is going to be a dedicated track car why not go with a solid axle. You could build a ladder bar setup for less than you think if you have a welder and a little fab skills. It just seems to be counter productive to prefect an IRS setup only to overpower it 6 months down the road. Also IMO a 9" is way overkill!! You can go with a much lighter and more efficient diff like a 8.8 Ford, 8 3/4 Chrysler, 10 bolt Chevy.
And thats my $.02
And thats my $.02
I don't know they say they have all these available for the 8.8 rear 3.08 / 3.27 / 3.55 / 3.73 / 4.10 / 4.30 / 4.56 / 4.88 / 5.13
same bolts pattern for the ford diffs I do believe and they are drag radials so you can use them on the street also. I do.... And I honestly think that Weld racing rims are the best for drag racing, just MHO though alot of people will say yes with me too, and they look unreal on fc
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: louisiana
cool, thanks for the info. I just may pick those up. But that still doesn't answer my question on wether or not those slicks are going to break drivetrain parts being that they bite so hard. I'm sure I could find a nice set of et streets for those rims until I go 8.8 rear end.
I had those wheels and the fronts dont clear the 4 piston breaks; if you shim them they stick out a ton. I do agree with the 8.8 ladder bar do it once and get it done. I went to the 4 bolt brakes and 15' 3.5 bogarts with 3'' back space, they weigh 6 lbs. The rear bogarts are 12 x 15 but i doubt you need them that wide. They weigh 12 lbs aare a lot lighter than the welds. I will get some pictures up soon as the new shop is open its been in the tralior for 2 years. I can get you speed glass pretty cheap it will not scratch like lexan, and is made by friends of mine. I would like to see how the welds fit on the sec gen fronts i couldnt get them to fit right. I will be home after awile if you have questions.
o sorry ya you need to get the spacers for them and make your bolts longer. But they never broke stuff on my buddy's car that ran them last year. He used a stock gxl diff and stock suspension and had a 355 sbc with a 200 shot of nitrous (shitty torque converter though) and ran 11.2 @ 129 mphs and only broke two stub axles using them drag radials
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
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From: louisiana
I had those wheels and the fronts dont clear the 4 piston breaks; if you shim them they stick out a ton. I do agree with the 8.8 ladder bar do it once and get it done. I went to the 4 bolt brakes and 15' 3.5 bogarts with 3'' back space, they weigh 6 lbs. The rear bogarts are 12 x 15 but i doubt you need them that wide. They weigh 12 lbs aare a lot lighter than the welds. I will get some pictures up soon as the new shop is open its been in the tralior for 2 years. I can get you speed glass pretty cheap it will not scratch like lexan, and is made by friends of mine. I would like to see how the welds fit on the sec gen fronts i couldnt get them to fit right. I will be home after awile if you have questions.
Man if you don't mind giving me a quote on the full set of speed glass that would be fantastic. I think right now you guys are really starting to get to me about htis 8.8" rear end. Up until now I've always seen that but a budy of mine is always saying nah go 9" or go home. I'm saying a) it's lighter b) it's cheaper and c) it will hold my power and anything I through at it just fine. The only bad thing is the lack of gear ratios but I think I could find something that would work just fine. o sorry ya you need to get the spacers for them and make your bolts longer. But they never broke stuff on my buddy's car that ran them last year. He used a stock gxl diff and stock suspension and had a 355 sbc with a 200 shot of nitrous (shitty torque converter though) and ran 11.2 @ 129 mphs and only broke two stub axles using them drag radials
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
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From: louisiana
Well I did it. lol, I finally made a desition. Thanks to busted7 and his advise. I'm not going crazy right now and ordering a ford 8.8 or 9" I'm just going to see what I can do on the stock rear end. I orded some 10.5 et streets, an 8 gallon fuel cell, bosch 044 fuel pump, a set of stock tII rims, and another spare rim. I installed my solid motor mounts and tomorrow hopefully will install my tranny mounts. Next I will get some dry ice and remove the sound deadening material as well as do a few other things to lighten up this pig. Next I will probably remove my exhaust and use just a piece of 4" or so stainless steal mandrel bent tubing for an exhaust to go straigt out of the fender. I will stop there and get the car tuned and see what the car will do on the track. I'll keep yall up to date with what happens. Thanks again to busted7 for talkin' to me and banging some sence into my head.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
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From: louisiana
Your right man. It's been too long since I've actually had a fun time with my car..err, well other than working on it. Can't wait to actually get some track time. Now I just gotta get the damn motor in one of these days
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: louisiana
Well MMR tranny mounts done! I can tell though that it's going to be interesting getting the motor stabbed in with these mounts. I'm used to alot of play on the transmission when stabbing a rotary. These mounts will not allow the tranny to move at all.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
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From: louisiana
few steps forward 
nice bdc half bridge
and a few other bling bling parts, lol.

my ssauto crap mani that I figured I give a shot. Ceramic coated with egt bung in rear portion of runner.

This turbo is starting to look small, lol.

A few shots of the mickey t's


nice bdc half bridge
and a few other bling bling parts, lol.
my ssauto crap mani that I figured I give a shot. Ceramic coated with egt bung in rear portion of runner.

This turbo is starting to look small, lol.

A few shots of the mickey t's

Last edited by hondahater; Jun 21, 2007 at 07:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,116
Likes: 1
From: louisiana
lol, hey you can bet I won't do that again. It only takes one time of me screwing something up for me to learn it, lol Infact I prefer to learn that way because I've always learned best when learning things the hard way
Joined: Dec 2001
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