Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys i have been going to the track a lot lately. first things first here is my mod list:

Stock sequential turbos
stock engine with around 80k miles
stock drivetrain
stock clutch- still original?
stock flywheel- still original?
full interior- car weighs 2950 with me in it.

Apexi PFC on base map- 10psi
HKS 3 in down pipe
STOCK MID PIPE
Apexi gt spec axle back
Koni yellows
eibach pro kit springs
Stillway 0-400 circuit shifter
400lph fuel pump
enkie nt03+m 18x9.5 front and rear square set up
michelin pilot sport 255/35r18 tires they are set at 32psi.

Dynoed 247rwhp. Torque was unknown because they didn't know how to hook up the pick up.

best time to date is 13.1, time slip attached.

Now on to my question/ your guys opinion. My average time i would have to say is a 13.7. Lately i've been working on cutting my 60ft down. Yesterday i hit 13.5 with a 2.0 60ft. then i hit back to back 13.2's with a 1.9 60ft. and my last and final pass of the day i got a 13.1 @101.21mph with a 1.876 60ft. Who here thinks this car has a 12.99 pass in it? im launching the crap out of it and would really like some tips or pointers from those of you that think it can get into the 12's. Other wise my next step is a midpipe and slight increase in boost. What RPM should i be shifting at? 7k 7.5k 8k? i usually shift right at 8k. Do you guys shift into 4th gear or just let it hit rev limiter going through the trap?

Overall im pretty stoked with the 13.1 and i honestly dont even know if i can do that again but i am going again saturday and want to see if i can beat that time. Also this is my first RWD car (had AWD cars since high school) and i do not get enough seat time since i only drive it on nice weekends/ track days. I feel like i could improve my shifting a little bit.

Car number was 457.





this is from last week- nothing changed just my driving. car number 81

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

If you get the 60ft down (use drag tires), it would definitely run 12s as-is.

Everyone 0.1 second improvement in the 60ft is roughly 0.1s second off in the 1/8 mile and 0.2 seconds off in the 1/4 mile.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Ya im more or less wondering how to hit 12 with the street tires still on. Does it really make a difference if i lower tire psi on them? Also is it worth me revving it out to 8k or is the power drop off too much and i should shift at 7k or 7.5k. My goal next week will be a 1.7 60ft on street tire and break 12.99

Also debating if i should just try to throw the mid pipe on and up the boost to 12psi. But that may be held off until i see how much further i can push myself as it is.

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

I think it's just going to take some time to see how you and your car react. Try lowering the tire pressure, try revving it, try shifting late, and write down what you did differently on the back of the time slip. At the end of the night, you can compare the differences and see what works and what doesn't. Worst case scenario, throw some boost at it and get that 12.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

You think dropping psi down to 20 would be too much for those tires? They are not run flats. Im thinking instead of running my normal 32psi ill just run 20psi all day

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

I doubt 20psi would hurt the tires, give it a shot and see how it does.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

So i think i have bad news... After 92k miles i think i blew a coolant seal last week at the track. Have not pressure tested it but it has been turning the coolany light on daily, i have been topping it off, and yesterday it started like **** and smoked for like 5 seconds. I dont know if ill be breaking it into the 12s this weekend like i wanted to. :'(

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

Sorry to hear that, it does sound like you got your use out of that motor though. Now you can build it for more power.

If it is the coolant seals, try not to let it sit too long or the combustion area might start rusting (depending on how good the coolant is or is not). It's better to have a coolant seal go than have an apex seal let go and tear parts up!

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Ya thats what i read. I do try to start the car and drive it every day. I was hoping to get another year out of it and slowly start building a 3 rotor but that is def going on the back burner now. First this first i gotta pressur e test it and make sure its the seals. I am anxious to tear this thing out and see the damage and if i have any warpped items.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

So i'm gonna switch gears here and really don't want to make a new thread. What seals/ rebuild kit do you drag guys recommend? Gonna start tearing it apart. Not going for more than 500hp. Street driven car. Guess really when it comes down to it i'm chasing low 11s and full street car.

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

I don't think gears is worth the money at your power level. Lot's of people running a lot faster than 11s on stock gears. It's probably better to spend your money upgrading your engine build or ordering the proper drag racing tires. Both of which will get you into the 11s a lot easier than gears.

If you still wanted to change your gears, you would be wise to replace the factory FD LSD with something better as it's a known weak link when drag racing. You can get the seals, bearings and misc parts from Ray at Malloy Mazda (search for his contact info).

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Cope I feel like you are the only one that still is in the drag section... Also I feel like maybe I should have worded that last post differently. When I said " i'm gonna switch gears here" I meant it as I'm going to change the topic of the thread from "getting into 12"s to "hey I blew up what path should I go with the build for my goals."

Not touching the actual gearing of the vehicle but thanks for the heads up on the LSD!

My question was more geared towards a RA classic rebuild kit vs Atkins rebuild kit. Which seals do you drag guys have most success with and longevity. Maybe even stock rebuild kit? Keep in mind it is a street car that I take to the drag strip, I like to go on cruises with and just enjoy the nice days in. Any advice would be helpful, search didn't really help much since a lot of the threads are from 2 years ago.

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

Wow, I definitely read it wrong lol. Must have been a long day yesterday.

I use E&J seals but everyone has a different opinion on what works the best. I would use OEM parts for everything else.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Would you use oem coolant seals also or the pineapple racing hd seals? I was thinking of just ordering the atkins master rebuild kit.

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

The Atkins coolant seals work good but I wouldn't use there Apex Seals though. E&J, goopy and RA super seals all are good apex seals for turbo application.

I don't think there was much improvement left on your time by comparing hp with et trap time. 1.87 60ft on street tires is awesome! On a stock Fd over 7500 rpm your not improving just abusing the engine. Better tires would of probably broke the rearend if you were getting any wheel hop.

I would suggest if you going to rebuild it with the stock twins purchased the master kit minus the apex seals. If you plan to convert to single then just buy a 86+ 13b soft seal kit from Atkins. You come up saving a lot of money.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Hey thanks for the feedback! I've been doing some more research and now you just threw me a curve ball! So you say don't use the Atkins apex seals but then if i'm going single turbo to use the Atkins soft seals?

Lets simplify this, my plan this year/ season is to do a rebuild, some kind of porting (haven't decided between street or bridge) and still run the oem twins/fuel/ everything else. I want to hit 12 sec with a fresh motor and porting on street tires. Then over winter time I want to build a single turbo and possibly go for 500-600rwhp. So i want to set up the engine correctly so that I don't have to redo it again over winter or next year.

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

My car made 501whp with a mild streetport on a mustang dyno. The drivability of a Bridgeport is more annoying. Yeah it sounds nice but It seems better for the track then the street. I've seen 5+ engine with Atkins 2 piece seals just wear housings at low mileage rebuilds. I would never recommend another set for a rebuild again. But for the rest of the gaskets, seals, etc its fine.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Gotcha. FD only get driven on to/ from the track and on weekends. Sunday cruises and stuff. goal for the car is 9s. but that is far down the road and right now I just want to have some fun. hit mid 11s with full interior and ill be happy, for like a few months.. and then get bored again haha. I've been hearing a lot of good things about goopy so I might go with those seals.