last sunday at e-town i broke a chromemoly axle , i was wondering if anyone else ever broke one ? i have to say thanks to frank @ driveshaftshop.com for replacing the axle so quickly

 

I never have. Draw a straight line on the new one and see how much they twist. I used to do that with stock axles before I upgraded but now it looks like you might need to do that with the chromoly ones too.

Anthony

 

I haven’t had the opportunity to launch on drag radials yet but from what I hear and read their much harsher on the axles/rear end. Bias-ply slicks like the ET street offer a bit more “ruberbanding effect” and aren’t as hard on components. Like I said I cant say from experience, but I’ve had numerous people tell me to be cautious how I launch on radials.

 

today i found out my problem is worst than i thought. i replaced drive side axle and went to go for a drive car would not move so i took out passenger side axle and the splines that go into the diff. broke and are stuck in the rear end. so overall i broke both axles in one shot. anyone have any ideas how to get the broke splines out of the rear end ?? thanks in advance

 

here are some pics

 

Personally as much as it sucks you should pull the diff housing. Which diff are you running?

Personally I would attempt to drill into the remains of the inner CV that left in there, and using something similar to a slide hammer, get something that can pull out the remains. you may still end up opening the pumpkin, and taking the diff out.

If it’s a kazz you can open up the diff to inspect/remove any particulate in it.

Damn that really sux

 

bacon, it is a kazz diff if i drill it out do i need to drain the diff fluid because shavings or will it not matter? thanks

 

don't dump the clutch on drag radials
slip the clutch

like said above bias ply tires offer less "shock"

broke a stock axle hub with DR's never on ET streets

 

Pop the stub out of the side that is not broken, and they you should be able to put something (broom handle, maybe and axle) all the way through and just pop out the broken one.

 

streetdreamzny where are you located. i have an r85 aswell and will be making some trips to englishtown during the summer. lets meet up!

-Lance

 

nof wtf ! still breaking stuff??? pm me your#

if i recall correctly, driveshaft shop offers hardened splines... apparently you need those too!

 

That just looks like a stock inner stub.

Andrew

 

DUDE! The reason that that inner stub is broken is because of a ring and pinion clearancing issue!!, NOT because of the launch, or making power, etc. PM me or AnthonyNYC for details.

 

really?? could you elaborate on this one?
Greg

 

Basically the rear is binding because it wasn't clearanced properly when it was taken apart, I can bet you any $ that someone installed either a different differential and/or gears and didn't clearance them properly causing it to bind and causing the splines to break inside the diff casing, I've seen this happen before.

 

It looks like you broke the inner hub. The inner and outer hubs on Driveshaft shop axles isn't made out of chromemoly, it's just stock (jis spec on there website). If you switch axles from side to side, they will snap. I'm not sure if you did, but if so that is the reason it broke. The only way we have to make them last is to get brand new inners and cryo treat them. If they are used, it won't work.

However, I have broken the chromemoly section (center bar) on stronger ones. The chromemoly doesn't flex much like stock steel does, but when it finally fatigues it snaps without much warning of twisting. I ran on the same set for 4 years before my center shaft finally broke. I hope this helps.

P.S.- you can sometime beat the broken part of the shaft out of the rear end using a long 1/4" extension from the other side (if it's not splintered too bad).

 

i finally got the broken peice out of the rear but when i tried to intall the axle in wonts go in . i tried the axle on the drivers side and it when in fine , both axles go into the drivers side but neither will go into the pass. side which is the side the inner cv joint broke, the splines do not look damaged but i am clueless at the moment, heres a pic of what the inside of the rear looks and both axles . thank you everyone for your help

 

sorry to muck up this thread, but i'm in the process of installing some new chromemoly axles and i'm having trouble getting the hub nut off? Any advice?

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/tips-removing-hub-nut-644473/

Thanks.

 

It's hard to see in the pictures, but you probabaly have many little pieces of axle still stuck in the splines, or minor burrs in the splines. you might want to go through it real well with a brush or something similiar, also check the c-clip to make sure thats not the cause of the problem, but unfortunately since it fits into the other side, it sounds like you might need to tear down and inspect the diff......good luck!

 

dan, i tried cleaning inside with a brush and it didn't help. the c-clip is new is it time to pull apart the diff? i tried to take a better pic. thanks again for your help

 

I assume you pulled the plug and checked the fluid for metal? It wouldn't be surprising to find some parts in there. Probably would make sense to pull it apart to check for other debris in there.

zinx- you need a 35mm socket and then get an impact gun and/or breaker bar to remove that big nut.

 

The splines look ok, but unfortunetly still hard to tell without being there, how do the splines look on the axle? If you pull the drain plug and get all the metal out, you will stil have a lot of metal inside the Kaaz ( I know, I've been there). You might just need to pull apart and clean everything. I would tell you that you might not have to pull it all apart, and it will fit... but I can't phyusically tell what it is doing for you, I'm just going off what you tell me. Are you sure the axle is going in straight when you try to shove it in? Just thave to make sure and cover all the bases.

 

Dan, why haven't you been racing this year ? As in, NHRA.

 

Primarily, budget. Plus I am doing some much needed R&D, and it makes it harder to get the funds together for R&D if I am paying to hit the events this year as well. Not to mention I wanted to see who is competative and who isn't so far this year. I am planning to run the west coast events for West Coast championship, as well as the second E-town in Oct. I have to pick and choose my events this year, and I chose the smaller number, west coast to run for in championship. I am still hitting the local Import Face-Off events, due to the fact travel expenses arent to big, and I have a good probability of taking home the winning payout (even though it's not much), while making more testing at the same time. I luckily have taken 1st in the last 4 IFO's which includes one final round against Ari . I am still trying to find a way to keep the car together, since parts from Mazdaspeed are virtually nill.