WLD 07

Nice. That's hooked up

sleeper7

Know I may not be the first to do this but just wanted to share.

Been running two wideband units in my car. Both PLX. Just to verify. Well moved one to the exhaust manifold on the rear rotor. Works perfect. Going to move the other one to the exhaust manifold on the front rotor. Do have EGTs but like knowing the AFR for each rotor also. Not the average AFR when the wideband is in the down pipe.

Did talk to PLX. They said for short runs when the egt is under 1600f is OK.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Keep in mind, pressure will skew the readings as well as heat.

sleeper7

Both widebands read really close AFR. Maybe off by .2 + or - . Down pipe and exhaust manifold.

mazda1200

iTrader: (1)

looking nice

sleeper7

Has a few passes this past weekend. Best 60ft time and I want to say it was with the rear wheels and did peddle the throttle a bit off the line. And had to let off early. Data log shows I let off two seconds from the end. It was sliding all over the big end.

Still cant get over how well the stock ignitors and coils work.
Car is running on E85. Went back to a water box. I will never run with out on ever again. Some say its not needed with E85 and not needed with Methanol. Cant really see why not running one.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

NICE, glad that you are still on it, and posting about it

Why do you think the car is sliding on the big end? and what's the water box for?

sleeper7

water box is my water to air intercooler. Reason I mentioned the intercooler thing was now since I've played with out one and feel the difference in power with my car. I don't understand why some don't run a intercooler. With a properly set up intercooler the benefits out way the disadvantages. This is just my opinion with my car. Also the guy tuning my car is kind of a idiot.

About the car sliding around on the big end. I believe it has something to do with the momentum of the car not equal to the power at the rear wheels. Since I had to peddle first gear it threw off the momentum at the big end. It also was a bit windy from left to right. Might have played a role in the sliding. I use to make my first pass of the night a slow one off the line and noticed it would slide around in 3rd and 4th gear. Then when the car launched good the car drove strait on the big end.


Found this video of the car running 9.7 This is what and leaking turbo seal looks like and running 3 oz per gl premix. also afr is very low 10s. At high 10s afr the smoking is not as bad.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Ohh, water intecooler! Fastest rotary drag cars are going back to running intercoolers. I cant see any downsize to running one, but then again, I am still playing in the 12-13 second field

BTW - I now wonder who is your tuner, as I thought you were tuning it yourself

Makes sense, and looking nice out there

sleeper7

[QUOTE=

BTW - I now wonder who is your tuner, as I thought you were tuning it yourself



:[/QUOTE]

Your correct.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

sleeper7

Strait as a arrow.

Maybe have a 9.2 in it at this boost.

krazy4

Awesome!

Is this still with the stock shortened explorer rear end?

sleeper7

Since it's been awhile.

Yes still on the 2000 explorer rear end. 4.56 gear. M and H 27x10 slicks. air pressure at 9psi.

Motor is same. secondary bridge. RA super seals. premix at 15 oz per 5 gallons. Going to start premixing 18 oz per 5 gallons next time out. E85 at 1.45 a gallon.

Back on a water to air intercooler.

Six 2200 and two 1000 cc injectors. Haltech 1000.

Trans is still doug nash 5 speed. but 4th gear is now 1 to 1. Single disk ACT clutch with maxx xtreme PP. Stock flywheel.

Stock turboII igintors and coils.....

krazy4

Very impressive!

Are you using RE sized intake ports? I can't remember.

sleeper7

Its a REW motor. Primary ports and runners are ported. I feel most of the power is made porting the primary ports and runner.

Secondary ports and runners are stock REW. With the bridge port.

The runners are not RE size but port matched to the JW intake.

9.4 rotors


Hope to regear the trans.
currently running
2.70 1st
1.99 second
1.48 3rd and 1.00 4th gear. The sift from 3rd to 4th gear is killing me. RPMs drop to 6100 in 4th gear.

Hope to go 2.85 1st and, a 1.22 4th and than 5th gear will be 1.00

krazy4

Thanks for the info.

The new gearing should make a nice difference. 8's here you come!

sleeper7

getting there

sleeper7

video of getting beat by a GTR this past weekend.

Tried spraying this pass for the first time in years. The fuel jet was to big and the engine was miss firing and slowed the car down. Still would not have beat the GTR but was hoping the spray would have made things close.
GTR 8.9 at 170
Me 9.8 at 146 Thumb switch on the steering wheel is my spray switch.

Did go 9.5 at 148 with a slight bog off the line. The track was prepped

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

What's up with the single glove?

On a serious note, why use spray? Are you running out of turbo?

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Check out the Nano kit. It's basically a CO2 tank that's regulated to 1100 psi that's tee'd into your nitrous bottle. Because its gas and N2O is liquid, it separates while maintaining a constant bottle pressure. We were running a 250hp shot on a 6.0L LS engine with no Nano and AFRs would go almost 2 points richer by then end of the 1/4 because bottle pressure would drop while fueling would stay constant. Adding the nano kit picked up big power and allowed us to use much more of the bottle before needing refilled. Definitely worth the money, especially considering what you save not having to use a bottle heater.

sleeper7

looks like a nice kit but I dont push the red button enough to justify the cost.

Not running out of turbo. Still keeping the boost below 35psi so with this S480 i think Im good for allot more.

About running a wide band in the exhaust manifold. Up to 12 psi during the burn out both widebands are still very close. At WOT there looks to be a .5 difference. Exhaust manifold one being the richer one. This may be a fueling difference between the two rotors. My EGT in first gear is 1100f, second is 1200 and 3rd is 1300 and 3th is 1400f. and the AFR difference is the same for all gears. Back pressure with this turbo at the this boost level has to be very low compared to a P trim exhaust wheel with a full exhaust. So IMO both pressure and tempts are not causing the afr difference at wot. But wont know until I get another wide band on the front rotor. That may not be for awhile.

I started wearing the non slip glove on the shifting hand casue when it gets hot my hand has slipped of the shifter.

Rotate86

Hey. what sort of endurance are you getting out of the o2 sensors in exhaust manifold? are you running custom heat sinks? cheers

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Got you! Any reason why you want to stay below 35psi?

I hear you on the glove. When I used to live in PR, I had a aluminum shift ****, and the damn thing would get super hot when exposed to the 100F sun light!

sleeper7

Not sure how long the sensor will last in the exhaust manifold. So far it has around 30 passes. When both widebands where in the down pipe I would replace them every six months or so. Consider them a maintenance item. Had a few start reading lean in the past and cost me time at the track. And for 60$ for some thing we rely on so much I just change them out before things go crazy. The other things that hurts the sensor IMO is I run 3 oz premix per GL.


The red button is crazy fast. Only a 50 or 75 shot make a big difference. It adds so much more torque then if I increased the boost to equal the HP level. I've run 100 shot in the past and it was stupid fast. ( only 3rd gear )
And it makes things interesting.

40 psi is my goal.