What should I replace when taking engine apart for rebuild?
Thread Starter
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
What should I replace when taking engine apart for rebuild?
Well my cars engine is original, at 137k, its going bye bye 
but it fought the good fight.
I'm already planning for a new engine, I'm thinking S5 JSpec from fc3s.org
They say they generally have 20k miles on them, So it shouldn't be in too bad of shape. I want to do a mild rebuild (clean everything up, replace the cheap wear parts, regrease everything and blueprint the engine) and do a streetport and maybe a bit of an exhaust port on it (not sure if I'll try my luck at it, or hand it over to someone else. I really want to do it myself. But we'll see).
So anyways. What generally needs replaced, or would be best to be replaced. And is there anything I should upgrade from the stock mazda parts?
Also anything else I could do to the engine? This most likely will be a daily driver for my T2
Thanks
but it fought the good fight.I'm already planning for a new engine, I'm thinking S5 JSpec from fc3s.org
They say they generally have 20k miles on them, So it shouldn't be in too bad of shape. I want to do a mild rebuild (clean everything up, replace the cheap wear parts, regrease everything and blueprint the engine) and do a streetport and maybe a bit of an exhaust port on it (not sure if I'll try my luck at it, or hand it over to someone else. I really want to do it myself. But we'll see).
So anyways. What generally needs replaced, or would be best to be replaced. And is there anything I should upgrade from the stock mazda parts?
Also anything else I could do to the engine? This most likely will be a daily driver for my T2
Thanks
Last edited by Node; Feb 17, 2002 at 02:27 AM.
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From: Cincinnati
Node
I think blueprinting an engine is only beneficial for a brand new motor.
You will want to clean the oil injection on the e-shaft. A simple standard scew needs to be removed and it has a spring under it I think; that all needs to be cleaned because they tend to get dirty.
If anything else comes to mind I'll be sure and post it here. Good luck!
This is my first post in the new rotary performance section by the way
I think blueprinting an engine is only beneficial for a brand new motor.
You will want to clean the oil injection on the e-shaft. A simple standard scew needs to be removed and it has a spring under it I think; that all needs to be cleaned because they tend to get dirty.
If anything else comes to mind I'll be sure and post it here. Good luck!
This is my first post in the new rotary performance section by the way
Thread Starter
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
Also any parts I should upgrade. Like any REW parts (housings, rotors, stationary gears). Although thats more out of budget I'm setting. But anything that is really a weakpoint that should be replaced.
And also, Are there any aftermarket OMPs? I know there is one for 20bs for planes but thats more of WOT, and I think the stock one is 4 position or something, also I heard about some change of a standalone fuel management hoodingy being able to control OMP. I forget who though. I think the only hard part is having 4 outputs to control it.
Thanks again
And also, Are there any aftermarket OMPs? I know there is one for 20bs for planes but thats more of WOT, and I think the stock one is 4 position or something, also I heard about some change of a standalone fuel management hoodingy being able to control OMP. I forget who though. I think the only hard part is having 4 outputs to control it.
Thanks again
Senior Member
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From: Miami Lakes,FL
congrats!
Hey congrats on the car node!...You should get a FCD and FD fuel pump or equivelent...I believe you could also use the FD intake Mani...Besides that the regular BS silicone Vaccume Hoses etc Maybe a nice radiator ...Good Luck
...Good Luck
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From: charlotte
If I got a jspec (which I am thinking about), then I would take it apart and just check everything out real well. I would put in hurley apex seals, probably replace all the springs (definately corner seal springs). I would put new rubber pieces in corner seals for the hell of it. I would replace rotor and main bearings unless they just looked beautiful. Then I would replace coolant seals and get an OEM gasket set. Oh yeah, and clean everything real well and port it with a template.
If I were you I wouldnt be too concerned about upgrading different things from an REW or whatever just because its not real necessary.
If I were you I wouldnt be too concerned about upgrading different things from an REW or whatever just because its not real necessary.
Thread Starter
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
I want Mazda 3 piece 2mm, but good plan.
I wonder how much all of that stuff is gonna cost, ahh **** all the small stuff adds up quickly. But doesn't it always
I wonder how much all of that stuff is gonna cost, ahh **** all the small stuff adds up quickly. But doesn't it always
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you should get new rotor housings, all the compression seals , oil control rings, fd corner seal springs. port it, and get at least an 89turbo with an upgraded compressor. the rest you know, who's building the motor?
mike
mike
Thread Starter
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
I am, I'm too broke to pay someone to do stuff I could buy and keep tools and learn to do myself.
Plus I'm a DIYer, and new rotor housings most likely are not gonna happen. And it's going to be a S5 so I'll have the turbo (its a long block)
Plus I'm a DIYer, and new rotor housings most likely are not gonna happen. And it's going to be a S5 so I'll have the turbo (its a long block)
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From: houston
minimum
here are some suggestions on your motor
at least front and rear mains ( no matter how they look)
ceramic coat them (cheap but helps a lot)
new side and corner springs
new corner seal plugs
2g gasket kit
front and rear main seals
if you replace the rotor bearings have them coated also
apex seals with new springs ( i use 2pc carbon steels)
be sure to check you clearance tolerances between the e-shaft and the bearings at least .0028
a word of advice: when you remove the main bearings there is a screw that keeps the bearing from moving (on the 2g's the bearing has a tab) you only have one shot at removing it and if you screw up you have to go to a machine shop and have them machine it out ( been there done that!!!) so make sure you have a NEW high quality screwdriver or a small impact driver.
if you need any parts hola at me and i also can do the ceramics for ya
later
at least front and rear mains ( no matter how they look)
ceramic coat them (cheap but helps a lot)
new side and corner springs
new corner seal plugs
2g gasket kit
front and rear main seals
if you replace the rotor bearings have them coated also
apex seals with new springs ( i use 2pc carbon steels)
be sure to check you clearance tolerances between the e-shaft and the bearings at least .0028
a word of advice: when you remove the main bearings there is a screw that keeps the bearing from moving (on the 2g's the bearing has a tab) you only have one shot at removing it and if you screw up you have to go to a machine shop and have them machine it out ( been there done that!!!) so make sure you have a NEW high quality screwdriver or a small impact driver.
if you need any parts hola at me and i also can do the ceramics for ya
later
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From: Rochester, MI
Re: What should I replace when taking engine apart for rebuild?
Originally posted by Node
Well my cars engine is original, at 137k, its going bye bye but it fought the good fight.
I'm already planning for a new engine, I'm thinking S5 JSpec from fc3s.org
They say they generally have 20k miles on them, So it shouldn't be in too bad of shape. I want to do a mild rebuild (clean everything up, replace the cheap wear parts, regrease everything and blueprint the engine) and do a streetport and maybe a bit of an exhaust port on it (not sure if I'll try my luck at it, or hand it over to someone else. I really want to do it myself. But we'll see).
So anyways. What generally needs replaced, or would be best to be replaced. And is there anything I should upgrade from the stock mazda parts?
Also anything else I could do to the engine? This most likely will be a daily driver for my T2
Thanks
Well my cars engine is original, at 137k, its going bye bye
but it fought the good fight.I'm already planning for a new engine, I'm thinking S5 JSpec from fc3s.org
They say they generally have 20k miles on them, So it shouldn't be in too bad of shape. I want to do a mild rebuild (clean everything up, replace the cheap wear parts, regrease everything and blueprint the engine) and do a streetport and maybe a bit of an exhaust port on it (not sure if I'll try my luck at it, or hand it over to someone else. I really want to do it myself. But we'll see).
So anyways. What generally needs replaced, or would be best to be replaced. And is there anything I should upgrade from the stock mazda parts?
Also anything else I could do to the engine? This most likely will be a daily driver for my T2
Thanks
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 84
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From: Irvine, California
Just depends
What everyone has already said are all great ideas. But in the end it comes down to what is worn out on YOUR engine. Just check everything out to make sure it's okay, because you'd rather spend extra time and money on it so you know for sure that nothing is going to get fucked up. But don't forget about your oil lines to your oil injectors, they break pretty easy when they're old and it's probably a good idea to replace 'em anyway.
