Rotary Aviation apex seal report
09-09-05, 05:36 PM
#126
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
Scathcart, have you got the old RA seals from that motor, can you put them edge to edge and take a pic, I will bet there is a mile of daylight in the gap..Max
This was a stock engine, that was gently broken in, kept under 4000rpm, for the first 4000 miles (new bearings). This engine was not driven hard, at all. Afr's around 12:1 (stock ECU), and you can tell from the huge amount of carbon buildup aroud the exhaust ports.
Yes, I still have the seals. I'll snap a couple pics as Max asked. There is definite warping.
09-09-05, 05:45 PM
#127
Originally Posted by scathcart
These were RA seals with new mazda springs.
This was a stock engine, that was gently broken in, kept under 4000rpm, for the first 4000 miles (new bearings). This engine was not driven hard, at all. Afr's around 12:1 (stock ECU), and you can tell from the huge amount of carbon buildup aroud the exhaust ports.
Yes, I still have the seals. I'll snap a couple pics as Max asked. There is definite warping.
This was a stock engine, that was gently broken in, kept under 4000rpm, for the first 4000 miles (new bearings). This engine was not driven hard, at all. Afr's around 12:1 (stock ECU), and you can tell from the huge amount of carbon buildup aroud the exhaust ports.
Yes, I still have the seals. I'll snap a couple pics as Max asked. There is definite warping.
09-09-05, 06:18 PM
#128
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by moehler
So, were they the old seals or the new seals?
Definitely after their machining scare a few seasons ago.
Engraved numbers into both ends.
09-09-05, 06:20 PM
#129
Originally Posted by scathcart
They were pretty rceent.
Definitely after their machining scare a few seasons ago.
Engraved numbers into both ends.
Definitely after their machining scare a few seasons ago.
Engraved numbers into both ends.
09-09-05, 06:24 PM
#130
Originally Posted by yodaddy
Kinda funny how this thread has resurfaced. I just blew my motor a couple of nights ago with about 6000 miles on it. I am now very curious to tear it down and see what everything looks like. I have been an advocate of these seals for a while and very happy with them. I guess we will see if that changes when I get this thing torn apart. I will be sure to post what my findings are when I do so.
09-09-05, 06:57 PM
#131
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I was pulling second up a hill to get in front of traffic before my lane merged, for some reason the rev limiter hit at 7900, so i shifted to thrid, then when i slowed don a bit i noticed a little stumble down low so i popped it out of gear and sure enough it died, so i just drove it home and through the cover on it until i get some time, which should be in the next week or so. I checked my commander and it showed a 76% duty cycle and nothing else funny, so i'm not sure why it went, i have detonated on these seals before though with no issues so i guess i will see when i pull it apart. My suspicion right now is that an injector possibly got stuck shut, but like i said, i won't know unti li get into it.
09-09-05, 11:52 PM
#132
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
I dont think an RA motor would last 40k miles using your example, from experience I would say not only the housings would be junk in that time, but the rotors would be worn far beyond spec...The Mazda seals would last probably twice that if the tune is right, the mazda seals just dont blow out for no reason, the seals themselves are not the weak point in a tuned application, the problem is the people often tuning the setups are the weakest point... Mazda seals dont warp like the RA ones do, and dont wear the rotor slots like the RA seals either..
Remember that one guy that used two sets of the first batch of the RA seals for his customer. The seals warped both times causing no compression. He was able to open the engine and only replace the seals with mazda units. Imagine if the Mazda seals had failed due to a lean condition in this same situation, the repair damage would have been much higher than just and engine seal kit.
Last edited by t-von; 09-09-05 at 11:55 PM.
09-10-05, 06:10 AM
#133
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Originally Posted by t-von
I understand that tuning is everything but, you can very well have other issues that can cause an engine to run lean. All things being equal if the stock seals fail they ususally take out the housing, rotor and turbo because of all the little pieces. The RA seals will bend. Sure the rotor may get out of clearence in the seal grooves but if you used the 2mm seals the rotors can still be milled for 3mm. Basically what I'm saying is the RA seals have caused fare less damage when they let go vs the stokers. End plates are cheap to find used.
Remember that one guy that used two sets of the first batch of the RA seals for his customer. The seals warped both times causing no compression. He was able to open the engine and only replace the seals with mazda units. Imagine if the Mazda seals had failed due to a lean condition in this same situation, the repair damage would have been much higher than just and engine seal kit.
Remember that one guy that used two sets of the first batch of the RA seals for his customer. The seals warped both times causing no compression. He was able to open the engine and only replace the seals with mazda units. Imagine if the Mazda seals had failed due to a lean condition in this same situation, the repair damage would have been much higher than just and engine seal kit.
Trying to tell me a seal is good because its tough even though it wipes the motor out in a short time period , probably before the motor could be blown by some far off reason, is some pretty twisted logic...
Last edited by Maxthe7man; 09-10-05 at 06:19 AM.
09-10-05, 07:59 AM
#135
Those pics above are just horrible!
Last Petite Le Mans @ Road ATL, I had a chance to talk to Dr. Ianetti. I asked him about his Ceramic seals in street FD (seals are used by many track cars). He told me NOT to use his seals in street driven cars. He recommends to use Mazda OEM. I asked him about other apex seals made by other companies and,... he didn't straight out and say don't used them, but he kind of said something like, "I don't know" or something and I got the feeling that he was saying not try it (I have this on the video.. somewhere).
I've also talked to a rotary engine builder with over 20 years of experience and we've talked about OEM seals vs. the Other seals. He had acturally tried different metal combinations and tried more than a dozen seals. He convinced me not to even bother trying anything else except OEM. And i've also was told this by other builders I know.
My last engine went out of comission after 88k miles dues to coolant issue. After that many miles, my housing still looked better than pics above. I've bought 5 FD engines in the past with all stock seals and non of them looked that bad.
I don't know what some of you are wanting to do with your car, but unless you have the means and time to mess around, I would stick to OEM.
Good luck everyone!
Last Petite Le Mans @ Road ATL, I had a chance to talk to Dr. Ianetti. I asked him about his Ceramic seals in street FD (seals are used by many track cars). He told me NOT to use his seals in street driven cars. He recommends to use Mazda OEM. I asked him about other apex seals made by other companies and,... he didn't straight out and say don't used them, but he kind of said something like, "I don't know" or something and I got the feeling that he was saying not try it (I have this on the video.. somewhere).
I've also talked to a rotary engine builder with over 20 years of experience and we've talked about OEM seals vs. the Other seals. He had acturally tried different metal combinations and tried more than a dozen seals. He convinced me not to even bother trying anything else except OEM. And i've also was told this by other builders I know.
My last engine went out of comission after 88k miles dues to coolant issue. After that many miles, my housing still looked better than pics above. I've bought 5 FD engines in the past with all stock seals and non of them looked that bad.
I don't know what some of you are wanting to do with your car, but unless you have the means and time to mess around, I would stick to OEM.
Good luck everyone!
09-10-05, 07:02 PM
#136
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
Trying to tell me a seal is good because its tough even though it wipes the motor out in a short time period , probably before the motor could be blown by some far off reason, is some pretty twisted logic...
It's not twisted logic. I believe the seals have a specific use. There not going to fit every ones needs but that doesn't mean that they are useless or not good. That's all I'm trying to say!
Hell If I were to try and build a NA engine that's to last well over 100k miles, I would definitely use the proven Mazda seals however, if I'm trying to build a turbo charged hi hp engine (500+ rwhp) I would use the RA seals or the NRS ceramics (if I could afford them). You said you lost 2 rotors and 2 housings with the RA seals but yet you didn't loose a turbo charger in the process. Used rotors and housings can be had for less than $600.00. You compared that to an expensive $1,500.00 + turbo charger that a stock seal will take out if only one seal lets go. When you look at it that way, who's logic is twisted? I mean have you heard of anyone loosing a turbo because of a blown RA seal? I sure haven't! Lastly weren't those RA seals of yours that warped from the first batch? I haven't heard of any cases of this happening lately with the newly machined versions. If these seals were doing that much damage to the housings, why is the engine that scathcart mentioned still running strong with over 40k?
Last edited by t-von; 09-10-05 at 07:23 PM.
09-10-05, 07:30 PM
#137
Originally Posted by t-von
It's not twisted logic. I believe the seals have a specific use. There not going to fit every ones needs but that doesn't mean that they are useless or not good. That's all I'm trying to say!
Hell If I were to try and build a NA engine that to last well over 100k miles, I would definitely use the proven Mazda seals however, if I'm trying to build a turbo charged hi hp engine (500+ rwhp) I would use the RA seals or the NRS ceramics (if I could afford them). You said you lost 2 rotors and 2 housings with the RA seals but yet you didn't loose a turbo charger in the process. Used rotors and housings can be had for less than $600.00. You compared that to an expensive $1,500.00 + turbo charger that a stock seal will take out if only one seal lets go. When you look at it that way, who's logic is twisted? I mean have you heard of anyone loosing a turbo because of a blown RA seal? I sure haven't! Lastly weren't those RA seals of yours that warped from the first batch? There have been very few cases of this happening lately with the newly machined versions. Just look at the guy who has over 40k with his RA seals. If these seals were doing that much damage to the housings, why is his engine still running strong?
Hell If I were to try and build a NA engine that to last well over 100k miles, I would definitely use the proven Mazda seals however, if I'm trying to build a turbo charged hi hp engine (500+ rwhp) I would use the RA seals or the NRS ceramics (if I could afford them). You said you lost 2 rotors and 2 housings with the RA seals but yet you didn't loose a turbo charger in the process. Used rotors and housings can be had for less than $600.00. You compared that to an expensive $1,500.00 + turbo charger that a stock seal will take out if only one seal lets go. When you look at it that way, who's logic is twisted? I mean have you heard of anyone loosing a turbo because of a blown RA seal? I sure haven't! Lastly weren't those RA seals of yours that warped from the first batch? There have been very few cases of this happening lately with the newly machined versions. Just look at the guy who has over 40k with his RA seals. If these seals were doing that much damage to the housings, why is his engine still running strong?
. The stock seal are great as long as everything in the car is great. However, as soon as something goes wrong (i.e. stuck injector, clogged fuel filter, bad gas, etc) the stock seals will most likely go. On top of that, when they do go, they are known to be able to cause damage to turbine's. The RA seals are more resistant to detonation, and if they do go, they do not necessarily shatter, they warp. I never saw this thread before I got these seals, and the few bad experiences here might have turned me completely off. However, there really is a limited number of bad experiences on here and there are good ones too. Nobody in this thread has mentioned a bad experience with the newer seals, stock springs and new housings. I should have my car on the road next week with this combination. I know it will be a long time before I know if the seals are killing my engine or not, but I will try and keep this thread updated with the results.
09-10-05, 08:13 PM
#138
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Originally Posted by t-von
It's not twisted logic. I believe the seals have a specific use. There not going to fit every ones needs but that doesn't mean that they are useless or not good. That's all I'm trying to say!
Hell If I were to try and build a NA engine that's to last well over 100k miles, I would definitely use the proven Mazda seals however, if I'm trying to build a turbo charged hi hp engine (500+ rwhp) I would use the RA seals or the NRS ceramics (if I could afford them). You said you lost 2 rotors and 2 housings with the RA seals but yet you didn't loose a turbo charger in the process. Used rotors and housings can be had for less than $600.00. You compared that to an expensive $1,500.00 + turbo charger that a stock seal will take out if only one seal lets go. When you look at it that way, who's logic is twisted? I mean have you heard of anyone loosing a turbo because of a blown RA seal? I sure haven't! Lastly weren't those RA seals of yours that warped from the first batch? I haven't heard of any cases of this happening lately with the newly machined versions. If these seals were doing that much damage to the housings, why is the engine that scathcart mentioned still running strong with over 40k?
Hell If I were to try and build a NA engine that's to last well over 100k miles, I would definitely use the proven Mazda seals however, if I'm trying to build a turbo charged hi hp engine (500+ rwhp) I would use the RA seals or the NRS ceramics (if I could afford them). You said you lost 2 rotors and 2 housings with the RA seals but yet you didn't loose a turbo charger in the process. Used rotors and housings can be had for less than $600.00. You compared that to an expensive $1,500.00 + turbo charger that a stock seal will take out if only one seal lets go. When you look at it that way, who's logic is twisted? I mean have you heard of anyone loosing a turbo because of a blown RA seal? I sure haven't! Lastly weren't those RA seals of yours that warped from the first batch? I haven't heard of any cases of this happening lately with the newly machined versions. If these seals were doing that much damage to the housings, why is the engine that scathcart mentioned still running strong with over 40k?
Just the replament rotors were 600.00 and they were used, basing your seal choice on used parts costs , is yet another form of logic that makes no sense..Apparently my first set of seals were from a batch that were bad, from a certain time frame, but when RA published the time frame on there site, my purchase didnt fall in that time frame..
Youd be suprised how bad an engine can be and still run.. If mazda seals suck so bad , should my other FC have 190 000 km on the original seals? On my RA motor, it went from perfect condition to pretty much no compression just with operating temperature, it was fine until I turned the car off hot..
I will say this again for the last time, it doesnt ******* matter if the seals are tougher, if something goes wrong and the car pings, its just going to break something else anyway and destroy other parts....You people that insist its a motor saviour are living in lala land, you aren't preventing anything you are just deciding what the motor is not going to die from, even though the motor is still going to die early
09-11-05, 03:26 AM
#140
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
Used rotors and housings for less than 600, yeah sure... A seal going through a turbo is not gonna cost 1500.00, I had a seal go through my t04e and it cost 400.00 to repair, I could have just had the damage trimmed off, but I chose a new wheel and rebalance.. Just the replament rotors were 600.00 and they were used, basing your seal choice on used parts costs , is yet another form of logic that makes no sense..
Just the replament rotors were 600.00 and they were used, basing your seal choice on used parts costs , is yet another form of logic that makes no sense..Just because you were not able to find good deals doesn't mean they don't exist. You would be suprised what you can find in a set of used parts. I bought two matching "c" weight perfect S5 NA rotors for $170.00 shipped to my door and they are perfectly within spec. Their was also a set of used FD housings on ebay that sold for $380.00. That's $550.00.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FD3S-...95961720QQrdZ1
You may be the type of guy that likes to used brand new everything on your rebuilds. Most people use what is necessary depending one their budget. To each his own. Besides my example about loosing a turbo is usually a worse case scenario but it still happens. You can't deny that fact. Eighter way you had to spend extra money repairing that turbo that the stock apex seals damn near took out. Sure your repair was only $400.00. Do you think your repair would have been so cheap had you had a Gt turbo with a ball bearing center section? I don't think so. No one to my knowledge has lost or ever had turbo damage with the RA seals.
09-11-05, 08:58 AM
#141
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Regardless of how much time you spend on Ebay looking for questionable parts , the fact is by using those seals, you have chosen that the motor is gonna die from scored housings and premature worn seal slots in a relatively short time period..And if it detonates in that time period, its gonna wreck other parts anyway..
Build it with mazda seals, tune it right, and have the piece of mind that motor isnt eating itself from the moment you turn the key. If something does go wrong, it would have gone wrong with the RA motor and it would have damaged the RA motor as well. Quit using the turbo as an excuse, so you dont know anyone doesnt mean it hasnt happened,Ive seen motors blown and the chunk never left the slot.. what we do know, is that alot of people who have torn down their motors found that the motor for the most part was total dust after running these seals, and again the reason the motors had to come apart is because the seals shitted the motor, not the other way around..
Take a set of the RA's and compare them to the stock 2mm, not one, but a whole set, stack them up in a line and look at the machining tolerances between the 2, measure it with calipers...Then look at the lack of chamfers on the underside of the seal. Then take a rotor that has had them in , and look at the seal slot at the bottom leading edge side...Another note, is that the RA seals have been sitting in my toolbox along with a bunch of mazda seals.. The RA seals have started to surface rust and when you rub the rust off they are pitted, where as the mazda ones in the same enviroment remain shiny, even the used mazda seal that are there.
There is just to much up in the air to use that stuff, I have used the RA seals twice, from the old batch and the new batch... Never again, I know from real life , not hypothetical situations, it cost me alot more in parts , labour and downtime using the RA seals, than I would have with mazda seals, even if the mazda seals blew..
I really dont believe a seal manafacture knows all the facts about their products until they can publish suggested clearances on them, which amazingly, few do..
In Japan there was an aftermarket seal fad about 10 years ago with the scoot NB seal, its faded away, and everyone there is using stock seals.. A few shops just sell their special prepped seals which are stock seals that have been pre-cut below 80 mm, which stops the corner from being scrubbed off or in the case of the RE seals, cryo treated stock 3 piece seals..
Build it with mazda seals, tune it right, and have the piece of mind that motor isnt eating itself from the moment you turn the key. If something does go wrong, it would have gone wrong with the RA motor and it would have damaged the RA motor as well. Quit using the turbo as an excuse, so you dont know anyone doesnt mean it hasnt happened,Ive seen motors blown and the chunk never left the slot.. what we do know, is that alot of people who have torn down their motors found that the motor for the most part was total dust after running these seals, and again the reason the motors had to come apart is because the seals shitted the motor, not the other way around..
Take a set of the RA's and compare them to the stock 2mm, not one, but a whole set, stack them up in a line and look at the machining tolerances between the 2, measure it with calipers...Then look at the lack of chamfers on the underside of the seal. Then take a rotor that has had them in , and look at the seal slot at the bottom leading edge side...Another note, is that the RA seals have been sitting in my toolbox along with a bunch of mazda seals.. The RA seals have started to surface rust and when you rub the rust off they are pitted, where as the mazda ones in the same enviroment remain shiny, even the used mazda seal that are there.
There is just to much up in the air to use that stuff, I have used the RA seals twice, from the old batch and the new batch... Never again, I know from real life , not hypothetical situations, it cost me alot more in parts , labour and downtime using the RA seals, than I would have with mazda seals, even if the mazda seals blew..
I really dont believe a seal manafacture knows all the facts about their products until they can publish suggested clearances on them, which amazingly, few do..
In Japan there was an aftermarket seal fad about 10 years ago with the scoot NB seal, its faded away, and everyone there is using stock seals.. A few shops just sell their special prepped seals which are stock seals that have been pre-cut below 80 mm, which stops the corner from being scrubbed off or in the case of the RE seals, cryo treated stock 3 piece seals..
09-11-05, 01:20 PM
#142
I have posted a poll to try and sum this thread up (https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...87#post4759487). Please summarize your experience there. Thanks.
09-11-05, 05:42 PM
#143
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
Regardless of how much time you spend on Ebay looking for questionable parts ,
Anything used is questionable regardless where you buy it.
the fact is by using those seals, you have chosen that the motor is gonna die from scored housings and premature worn seal slots in a relatively short time period..And if it detonates in that time period, its gonna wreck other parts anyway..
Premature death maybe however, that engine with over 40k is still running strong. As I said earlier I would ONLY use RA seals in a hi hp application due to the fact that I don't expect the stock seals to last forever under one serious knock. The RA seals have lasted over 40k miles in these engines. That means the housing are still holding compression. If I built a hi rotary and it lasted over 40k I would be happy. Replacing housings and rotors isn't a big deal. I would rather not have to ALSO replace or rebuild a turbo in the process because of a blown stock seal that couldn't handle one serious knock. Perfectly tuned or not, there are too many variables that can lead to detonation that you can't always control. So using the turbo in this example isn't an excuse.
Last edited by t-von; 09-11-05 at 05:50 PM.
09-11-05, 08:58 PM
#145
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Originally Posted by t-von
Anything used is questionable regardless where you buy it. Premature death maybe however, that engine with over 40k is still running strong. As I said earlier I would ONLY use RA seals in a hi hp application due to the fact that I don't expect the stock seals to last forever under one serious knock. The RA seals have lasted over 40k miles in these engines. That means the housing are still holding compression. If I built a hi rotary and it lasted over 40k I would be happy. Replacing housings and rotors isn't a big deal. I would rather not have to ALSO replace or rebuild a turbo in the process because of a blown stock seal that couldn't handle one serious knock. Perfectly tuned or not, there are too many variables that can lead to detonation that you can't always control. So using the turbo in this example isn't an excuse.
Anyway you are still operating under the premise that detonation will only kill the apex seals, and only kill mazda apex seals, and that is simply untrue..
I have taken apart motors with stock seals, to find the rotors dented...It detonated, and the seals survived, the rotors didnt.. Back to Lesson #1, all detonation is bad and bionic apex seals doesnt save jack ****...If the engine has serious knock, the seals arent going to save it, I think I have said this how many times now....
IMHO, there is a material compatibilty issue with the seals, I had multiple issues with mine, starting with them wearing themselves and the parts extremly fast, the warping, and the maching inconsistencies..
They knew the application of my engine, the seals came with no clearance numbers, the springs were under spec out of the package, I then heard that they didnt recommend their stuff for more than stock boost. I found that out after I built the motor, which didnt lighten my outlook on the product any..
I have them right now in a current motor in of my fc's, this is batch #2 I beleive, they are better than batch #1, they have held better, but the motor is losing compression, and I have had some not so stellar hot starts as of late... The motor is coming apart at the end of this season, at which time I can then evaluate batch # 2 to in terms of warping and what not, mileage is about 14,000 km, less than 10k miles...The first set were warped like bananas...
I appreciate someone trying to make more aftermarket parts, but I think more testing and revision could be done before releasing some of this stuff as well..Max
Last edited by Maxthe7man; 09-11-05 at 09:15 PM.
09-12-05, 09:14 AM
#146
development
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
the fact is by using those seals, you have chosen that the motor is gonna die from scored housings and premature worn seal slots in a relatively short time period...
09-12-05, 01:14 PM
#147
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Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
i'd like to see RA seals on cermet coated housings...see how that holds up.
but again, was that the RA seals and springs, or ra seals with stock springs?
but again, was that the RA seals and springs, or ra seals with stock springs?
09-12-05, 05:00 PM
#148
Originally Posted by Maxthe7man
I do belevie that engine was also an N/A..
Anyway you are still operating under the premise that detonation will only kill the apex seals, and only kill mazda apex seals, and that is simply untrue..
I have taken apart motors with stock seals, to find the rotors dented...It detonated, and the seals survived, the rotors didnt.. Back to Lesson #1, all detonation is bad and bionic apex seals doesnt save jack ****...If the engine has serious knock, the seals arent going to save it, I think I have said this how many times now....
Anyway you are still operating under the premise that detonation will only kill the apex seals, and only kill mazda apex seals, and that is simply untrue..
I have taken apart motors with stock seals, to find the rotors dented...It detonated, and the seals survived, the rotors didnt.. Back to Lesson #1, all detonation is bad and bionic apex seals doesnt save jack ****...If the engine has serious knock, the seals arent going to save it, I think I have said this how many times now....
Thats sounds unbelievable especially given the fact that how many people on this forum have blown the stock seals due to detonation and reported no dents in the rotor housings? Now all of a sudden we have a freak set of Mazda seals that can withstand detonation strong enough to dent rotors and not break the seals themselves.
How do you know those rotors weren't dented to began with and reused for the rebuild? Anyways all my bitching about the Mazda seals has been mainly focused on the older 3 piece design. Does anyone have any info on what kind of damage the new 2 piece seals have done to the housings and rotors when they blow? I figure it wouldn't be as bad since there is no top piece to fall out and break apart.
09-12-05, 05:58 PM
#149
I wish I was driving!
I popped the mani's off the engine running the RA seals for the 40,XXX miles this weekend (not my car), and had as good a look as one can have with a boroscope/mirror.
The housings are missing chrome patches. Compression is down, and power is down. This engine is N/A and running OEM springs. The engine still runs, but far from being what I would consider acceptable performance.
Engine buildup for a replacment engine commences next week.
What I take from my experiences with these seals over the past 2+ years? They take a lot of abuse, but they flat-out destroy rotor housings and rotors. Doesn't matter what application, what springs are used, N/A, boosted, nitrous....
I would never reccommend these seals to anyone for any application.
The housings are missing chrome patches. Compression is down, and power is down. This engine is N/A and running OEM springs. The engine still runs, but far from being what I would consider acceptable performance.
Engine buildup for a replacment engine commences next week.
What I take from my experiences with these seals over the past 2+ years? They take a lot of abuse, but they flat-out destroy rotor housings and rotors. Doesn't matter what application, what springs are used, N/A, boosted, nitrous....
I would never reccommend these seals to anyone for any application.
09-12-05, 06:47 PM
#150
Originally Posted by scathcart
The housings are missing chrome patches. Compression is down, and power is down. This engine is N/A and running OEM springs. The engine still runs, but far from being what I would consider acceptable performance.
Engine buildup for a replacment engine commences next week.
Would you mind doing a basic compression check before the tear down?