GiantNRS

Ok guys,Help the n00b.What I am wanting to know is this,What exactly is needed to run a low 13sec 1/4 and not have reliability issues?I am not interested in an upgraded turbo.Also what kind of boost would this take?
I am in the process of searching for a nice FD right now and would appreciate any feed back.I'm not interested in doing more than the reliability upgrades and basic bolt ons.(I.E-,Inatake,downpipe,test pipe,Exh,Pully's etc..)What does a typical set up like this yield at a relatively low boost setting?thanks...

zyounker

Um, alot of 3rd gens run 13s out of the box.. DOD (Depending On Driver)


I would do reliablility mods though...

Fluidyne radiator
AST (Removal or replacement)
Downpipe
Boost gauge
Coolant temp gauge


Then if you want to a cat back.. this will be a reliable low 13s car


-Zach

RecKleSs

Bone stock FD does 13.5 in the 1/4 mile. How much boost do you want to run? With the mods you listed you will also need an ECU, fuel pump, and maybe upgrade your injectors. With this setup you will be in the mid 12's. Upgrading the ic will get you into the low 12's and high 11's The FD can run 11's and still be reliable, it really comes down to the setup, tuning, and maintaining the car correctly.

GiantNRS

Thanks for the replies.That is what I wanted to know.I don't plan on doing more than bolt ons and a PFC.I have three friends with FD's and all of them have had an engine failure at some point.Since they are the only guys I know with them I wanted other opinions.Thanks..

Styk33

You can live with the basic upgrades and run 12s without problem. intake, IC, DP, exhaust, ECU, radiator and linearize the coolant gauge. If you want more power go with a hi flow cat. After that you will start getting into fuel upgrades, like pump and then injectors.

I ran high 12s with intake, IC, full exhaust and ECU with 7psi on touring tires.

Very few FDs run 13.5s stock (only know of 2). Most people will see high 13s to low 14s with a decent driver.

GiantNRS

I was just about to ask that.I too was under the impression they were high 13 low 14 stock.I was able hang with or beat my buddies when they were stock in my old Type R(I ran a 14.0@100.5)Once my friend did the basic mods we have all just listed it was an abortion.Unfortunately he never got it to the track due to engine failure.He ended up selling it with a blown motor.

kwikrx7

abortion? I don't know if you can ever say a FD is reliable unless you have your engine torn down and put silicone coolant seals, o-rings, having coolant and oil porting done, better apex seals (if you want to run higher than 12 psi - the stock 2mm are great but wear down a lot quicker at more boost than 2mm Hurleys or 3mm ceramics). FDs run hot so a upgraded radiator is needed. The Racing Beat Air-inlet with K/N is a nice mod for the stock airbox. DP, hi-flo cat, and exhaust, POWER FC are some other mods to get you in the 12's. Eliminating the AST or going with a stainless tank should be done. Converting your turbos over to non-sequential will save you headaches with the stock sequential system. Then your FD would be reliable. For a low 13 second FD:

DP
Exhaust
Intake
Power FC or remapped ECU at 11-12 psi

getting in the 12's you'll need a fuel pump, ic, and mp or hi-flo

Nathan Kwok

If you get the "BPU" upgrades and do everything correctly, you can run low 13's easy, even at 10psi (stock boost). Most people that mod their cars also increase their boost (and many mods increase boost on their own), but this isn't necessary for more power, and there is no question that the more boost you run, the shorter your engine will live, on average. In fact, you could probably run low 13's with just a single mod, drag radials .

RXTASY1

Not where I come from.
I have raced many stock 3rd. gens. with my TII and beat all of them. My best time at the track is 13.7.

RXTASY1

WTF you talkin bout Jr.?