i'm in the middle of the engine rebuild of my tII S5 vert! just wanted to share some pics and hear some opinions about my DIY porting!
should be some mild street port...

my thought's were: to increase the intake port area without increasing overlap and compromising street performance such as low and mid end power! as for the secondaries, i only delayed the closing time and did not touch the inner or outer edge of the port. the primaries are significantly larger than stock, 'cause the provide a lot of material behind them to not run the risk of cutting the waterjacket. also the outside of the primaries is not as close to the corner seal as the secondaries, so i compensated that

be aware that the fine tuning work is not yet done, so they might look a bit rough...

i did my own templates to being able to copy the second port from the original one...

 

some more...

 

they look pretty nice to me. if it were mine, i would have probably opened the secondaries earlier, and left the primaries closer to stock. however, as i said, they look pretty nice to me.

any pics of the exhausts?

 

no, the new rotor housings are on their way, i'll have to wait...

changed my mind slightly and extended the ports quite a bit again... i thought that the engine once being apart, should take the chance and be really different once rebuilt

now i think we can call it extend porting?? what do you think?

 

can i make a suggestion?

that last pic you posted, showing the secondary port with your template, it appears to be going into the path of the oil control ring. if you cut the ports there, the motor will probably smoke when running. why not redo the template and take a little off the opening side instead?

 

yes that's correct! i did test that!
i put some grease to that area and let the rotor (with the oil rings on it) spin 45degrees through that area with the stationary gear and the housing on the plate. he swiped away the grease up to 1.8mm close to the inner side of the port. so the rest is not touched by the oil ring and can be grinded...

 

You gain 0 hp by grinding that part (oil control ring area) of the port because you don't change port timing at all and are only making the port marginally larger (larger does not = better, you want port timming and intake velocity for power). Leave that area untouched, just clean it up. No need to risk totally trashing good housings and having a smoking engine for 0 gain in power. You'd gain more power by opening your port earlier. You'll see these gains from 3000 RPM and up with a minor loss from idle to 3000 in torque.

~Mike..........

 

Also, though the port work looks good (except the grinding into the oil ring area and lack of open timming), once you settled on your port timming, then you need to work the port bowl. An area for great improvement is knife edging inside the port runner were it meets the opening edge of the port and blending it all together. Last, don't forget to put a small radius on ALL port edges to save the life of your corner, side, apex, and oil seals. Little raised nicks or sharp edges will wear them out.

~Mike..........

 

thanks for the advice!
but how do you see i'm already in the oil seal area?? i've done some checking with grease being swiped away by the oil ring (see discription above) and figured out, that there is a 1.8mm clearance of the inner side of the sec port versus the oils seal track, i just grinded 1.5mm inwards... or is that already too far??

 

There's nothing wrong with the porting you have done. The amount you have cut into the oil seal track will not affect anything. If you look at the oil contro ring you will see that you can port quite a ways before you expose the seal and even looking at the track line of the oil control ring it doesn't even come close. But I'm with the other guys post it's not worth the chance of porting into the oil seal track just get rid of the lip from the casting and smooth it all out. Ports are fine but I would open it earlier. But that's just me.