what type of coolant seals do they run in PP race engines? are they the same for turbo and n/a race engines?

 

AFAIK Mazda only made two flavors of coolant seal: the ones for '86-2002 engines and the ones for '74-85 engines. (Not sure about earlier, or RX-8)

That is to say, the race parts are the street parts.

 

LOL, my eye was actually drawn to that in the pics of the 787B Lemans motor teardown.

Ugly stock orange coolant seal o-rings?

 

fyi, I just re-used my viton ones for the fourth time, still working and sealing fine. I did a thread on it somewhere if anyone is interested

 

peejay, what on earth made you think of trying wire as a coolant seal alternative? I'd love to hear the logic behind the madness.

 

A man who has been building and circuit-racing rotaries since roughly the time I was born did it in a pinch and found that it worked satisfactorily.

And I'm cheap, and I wanted to try it, especially since I did not know how many times I'd have the engine together and apart.

It does work. It's fiddly and next time I'll probably just spend the $80 and buy Mazda inners and use silicone-only for the outers.

 

Thought I would up date. The seals wore out after the I tried to reuse them for the 4th time. 3 months ago. All builds involved were low miles as I was learning how to build an engine.

 

bringing back an old thread- how much do you fella's in the US pay for a 12a water seal kit from Mazda and what's included?

And as its an old thread are there any recent new alternatives (apart from wire- which I like!!!) that cost less than Mazda's offering?

Oh- and why is it that the outer seals gets bigger and cant seem to be refitted after a strip down but not the inner seal?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/honest-review-rotary-aviation-o-ring-kit-626610/page4/
its also in a thread on ausrotary "jipped on o rings"
ordering via aus or NZ equiv will get you metric sizes,, something the yanks have trouble with
however,, outside oil control O ring is still a imperial equiv,, and hence thats the hardest fit in the whole shooting match

 

my viton ones are still working, but I have been busy with various other things and have probably only put 1000 miles on the car in the last couple years.

 

Hate to bring up a screwy thread but... How about uninsulated aluminum wire?... The aluminum may crush enough to seal and stay put... Just a thought

 

.

 

^why? pineapple have proven that viton works well, and I have shown in the other thread how to DIY the viton for much cheaper than oem water seals. I don't see why everyone wants to try weird ideas?

 

For longevity and one less pliable material in the mix. ( I have a beautiful running 13b that is leaking coolant now under 30 degrees ambient.) In my mindset Id rather have something similar to a head gasket sealing from a head to a block. With the expansion of iron and aluminum a head gasket like material would seal tight and solid. It was 4 degrees in the morning 2 days ago, today its 40 degrees. I want to find a solid seal because I believe my seal troubles are a product of the environment.

 

maybe this is not the place for this discussion, but an outside temperature change of 36 degrees over 24 hours is hardly an issue when the block itself undergoes a change of 100+ degrees in five minutes every time you drive the car. If you mean that it is leaking only at low ambient temperatures due to the loss of compression in the ring, then I would ask A) are you using the ptfe o-rings (because they are less pliable and ptfe does not have a very high thermal expansion rate)? and B) are you sure that the tension bolts are torqued properly?
In any case, if this is what you feel is the issue, then I would say you need a MORE pliable seal, not less, so that it can be compressed tighter and therefore expand more.

Anyway, like I said, it has been proven that the viton o-rings can take whatever you throw at them.

 

I trust in your confidence, Ill give the pineapples a shot! As far as the ambient statement was concerned its less about the temperature swings themselves (100 degrees in 5 minutes) but the temp itself. At 5 degrees at 60mph your looking at -26 after the windchill on a motor that has a hot side and a cold side. uneven expansion is my concern and how well the seals would handle it.

 

I've opened two motors with the Pineapple seals. One was over heated one was down due to detonation. BOTH sets of inner seals would not fit into another motor. I would NEVER suggest anyone buy these. There's my two cents...

 

peejay is WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!

I've never heard such garbage!

Purple is just as fast as greased lightnin.

And everybody knows there's nothin fastern greased lightnin!

 

#FromTheDead. . . so what is the current census on these low key famous Pineapple HD Water Seals or should i say Viton Seals ?? & are these seals a better alternative from OEM? any updated experience would be greatly appreciated

 

While we're ressurecting dead conversations, I stopped using the 18-ga wire because of this. Works fine in the spring and summer but trying to start the engine when it is 0-10F results in a burned inner seal. The jacketing was just not pliable enough to retain enough compression when that cold.

Now I do 2.4mm inner Viton, 2.0mm outer generic O-ring material.

 

I used the Pineapple Racing ones when I rebuilt mine. Only because that's where I got my rebuild kit from because at the time they had the best price on rotor housings when you included them in your kit. Their HD water seals is what they included. I had the same concerns as others and remember reading these same threads. Almost chickened out and bought some stock ones, but didn't. It has now been running for over a year. Not sure on the mileage. Somewhere around 10k to 15k miles. So far so good. I've had no issues.