Well being as **** as I am I want to do some oil mods b/c I've seen what lack of oil does to our motors and its scares me. Are there any mods I can do at home with some basic tools?

 

Yes, get the "wallet" and buy a "second or larger" oil cooler for your car. Install.

 

I'm not talking about cooling just more lubractaion. Also I have one other question about tension bolts. DO they have a factory coating on them I might have taken it off.

 

A second oil cooler is totally unnecessary. FC oil coolers are enormously overbuilt. They are capable of keeping up with cars that generate a lot of power. I am not sure about the tension bolts, but I doubt that there is any type of coating. Especially when all kinds of people add stuff like shrink wrap to fill the void that allows the bolts to vibrate.

As far as oil mods go, there is a good thread on nopistons.com about it. Most people seem to port out the front iron where the oil pump goes. The casting inside there is rough, and can easily made to be a lot better. You will get better flow and a slight increase in pressure. I also recall that people relocated the oil cooler feed line, but it only works if you aren't using your accessory bracket. I started drilling out the brass plug for it, and about 1/4 of the way through, it dawned on me that my accessory bracket would still be covering the hole.

 

I am about to stack up my 1st motor, I will take pics of it before it goes together.

Oil mods I did were-

1) port oil pump inlet smooth for flow
2) port oil pump outlet to give the hole a nice radius
3) notch pressure side of oil pump shaft "bearing" in front housing for more flow
4) tap galley plug to relocate oil pump to oil cooler outlet to eliminate bends
5) tap front bearing oil galley plug for loop line from oil filler adapter for more flow
6) port/polish front/rear stationary gear oil galleys
7) drill 2nd hole in rear of e-shaft for oil inlet off stat gear bearing
8) relieve stat gear and rotor bearing e-shaft holes for flow
9) window front/rear stat gear bearings in groove
10) port match interface to oil galley in front/rear stat gears
11) rotor oil jets to eliminate check ***** in e-shaft
12) rotor oil bypass eliminator in e-shaft
13) velocity stack oil pump inlet tube
14) polish e-shaft 1800 grit on lathe
15) polish/clearance bearings 1500 grit by "flapping"
16) baffle/anti-aeration plate on top of oil pan
17) FD rotor bearings
18) race oil pressure regulator
19) front mount oil cooler

I didn't use glyptic paint to seal cast iron for faster oil drain/less aeration though I thought about it when I saw the stuff in Eastwood.

 

Sorry to Bump an old threat, but this sounds really interesting, dig you mange to do all the mods, and if so, could you share pictures ?` I'm planing on building my first rotary 12A and would like to do the mods as well.

 

Let me see if the pics are still in my thread.

 

This is the thread from my 1st engine build, it has some pics of the oil mods-

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...y-port-489429/

 

I kept racing that car till 2014.

Later additional oil mods that developed were-

Mazda Motorsports 7qt competition oil pan and I later tack welded a steel copy of the RB oil pan baffle plate in the pan to avoid having 2 sealing surfaces and the leaks.

Oil pan brace to stop the leaks.

A dowel pressed in the front plate's stock oil pump outlet because high oil pressure kept pushing the front cover away from the iron and the little o-ring would end up in the oil pressure relief valve passage.

A custom turbo oil feed line because two stock tube cracked at the turbo oil inlet flange- later found stock ones probably cracked because I wasnt using the correct stock Asbestos gasket to block heat transfer.

Use asbestos.

Pics of later mods-




last pic is the restrictor pill in the new turbo oil feed line flange (shown assembled above it).

 

I also installed oil temp gauge referenced off oil line to front stat bearing (in the loop line).

Oil temps were always in check.
They only reached 100C (212F) one time racing and that was 3rd run of hillclimb in 100F weather.

The normal "high" oil temp during autox or 5 lap kart track events was 80-90C (normal operating temp)

 

Reading through the 1st engine build thread-

Yes, later engine builds where I tapped the cast iron side housings I used straight threads instead of NPT and avoided cracks.

Also, if you are interested in porting.

My turbo was the limit for power, so I used smaller exhaust and intake porting and gained low end power and more linear power response as boost came in.

See this thread for porting changes-

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-build-857528/