I did some searching around and read up on the oil loop line info and wanted to pose some questions. Is there any reason that one would recommend the AN stuff over some brass barb fittings and high pressure hose? I can understand that it is seeing around 80psi or more but thats what high pressure hose is designed for. Is because they don't make a hose clamp that small to handle those pressures? Thanks for your input.

Chris

 

Guess I was thinking a little proactive because no one has said a damn thing. Well I don't want to spray hot oil all over my bay giving it a try. So if I do it I'll be doing the ol AN and SS.

 

It'll work either way. Reason people do SS hose, is because not to many people have acess to the proper crimping equipment for hydralic hose.

 

It's a reliability thing, so I'd put AN on that, no sense in risking a failure to save a few $$.

 

Both good points. Thanks

 

I do have access to the hydraulic hose and crimper. I'm gonna see how much it would be because I'd have like 50 bucks in something that doesn't really need all that shiny hose and stuff. It would be the only think in my bay thats ss and AN.

 

No reason it shouldnt work. my turbo oil feed line is hydralic hose. works fine and sees the same pressure that your loop line would.

 

And I'll bet you got it made up for a **** ton less than the appropriate replacement in SS.

 

maby $30 total, probably less, and I HAD it made at napa, didnt do anything myself but bring in a fitting, the turbo, and a measurment for the lenght of line i wanted between the appropriate fittings

 

Ah, ok, that should work (was thinking you meant nipple with hose clamp), just be sure to get a big enough hose, -10 is the standard reccomendation that I've seen, so that's 5/8".

 

no brass barbed nipples haha, that, probably wouldnt last to long. its hydraic line, i belive it was rated to 300degF and 2500psi

 

Good idea about that turbo feed line. Maybe I'll have both of them made up at the same time.

Hey mel when you say fitting do you mean a 90 that comes off the front iron? What did you do about the CHRA? Was it threaded already seeing as how its an aftermarket turbo? If thats the case what would you suggest for a stock T2 Turbo?

 

And what about the restrictor?

 

I didnt have a 90, i had a banjo bolt that fed the factory twins on my cosmo. i found a fitting that fit the banjo bolt and left me with whatever i need to get to the hydralic line (napa did the leg work, dono what it is honestly)

as for getting to your chra, i just brought my t04s in, and they found somthing that worked


as for an oil restrictor, i bought an .060 restrictor from atpturbo.com

 

Ohhh, so you had the bolt and you found a fitting for it to go thru that the hose would crimp onto. But you're saying the oil feed on the turbo was already threaded or did it have 2 bolts that went thru a flange with a fitting on it? And then you attatched another hose end that fit the flange fitting? Damn, sorry for the detailed description but in my head there are a couple of ways to do this.


EDIT. It hit me, None of the CHRA are actually threaded for a fitting, eliminating the flange part and 2 bolts correct? So it would be the flange with a fitting on it or actually threaded itself.

 

So you're saying the loop line should be 5/8ths? I was thinking more like 3/8ths. That seems pretty big considering you're just wanting to even out the pressure between bearings. I'm not going to block off the dowel feed, this will be done in addition to that.

 

That's what I've read, -10 AN hose, so that's 5/8" ID I do believe.

 

BDC used a 6AN. Do you think the iron can be tapped out to 5/8ths? I guess so if you've heard of someone doing it before. I dunno, we'll see what parts I can come up with.

 

I don't recommend tapping the iron with an NPT plug. That area can tend to crack, which can then create many problems. I use a Metric-AN adaptor, and tap to M14x1.5, and use -10 line.

 

9/16", actually.

 

I figure going bigger couldn't hurt, you're trying to equalize pressure, so why not try to have as little pressure drop as possible by using a larger line? 6 would help, 10 won't be any worse, so why not right?

9/16" is darned close to 5/8", it's a quick conversion to take the AN number and divide by 16 to get the rough size (that's how the number is defined or so I've read), that's how I got to 5/8".

 

Not a bad idea. The way I did mine was tap it for 1/4"NPT then used the appropriate 1/4"NPT to -6AN adaptor.

Why the -10AN line? That's pretty large considering the diameter of the galley heading to the stationary gear. I would think -6 would be more than plenty, especially if the use of the tubular dowel run (factory oil passage) is still used.

Here's a picture of the loop line on my engine:
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/ProjectC...geViewsIndex=1

taken from folder http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/ProjectC...eInstallation/ which will show several more pictures of it to better illustrate

B

Edit: Forgot to add link for engine loop line picture

 

I will still be using the dowel run even though most people recomend blocking it off when doing this mod. I am considering using the hydraulic line with the appropriate adapter and tapping the galley out for metric as was suggested. Would you use a copper crush washer or O-ring where it would thread into the iron? Thanks for your input Brian.

 

Id try crush washers myself

 

Thats what I was thinking. Otherwise there would probably have to be a recess in iron for the O-ring.