Octane Booster..Yes or No??????
From what I've read all of those store bought octane booster suck. It says raises 10 points but what they really mean is it raises it by 10 tenths (.1) of a point. So form reading the package you would think it takes you from 90 to 100 octane, but its actually 90 to 91 octane (90+.1,+.2,+.3,........+1.0)
If you use it its not gonna hurt anything, but 1 octane point is definatly not worth the money you pay for the octane booster.
I've heard fo something called toulene, but I dont' know anything about it.
If you use it its not gonna hurt anything, but 1 octane point is definatly not worth the money you pay for the octane booster.
I've heard fo something called toulene, but I dont' know anything about it.
.........
"Why do you want to raise your octane?"
Because I heard rotary dont like to run under 90 of
octane. So I thing it would be better to increase it
then the answer is NO. Don't use it.
Why??????
Serge
Because I heard rotary dont like to run under 90 of
octane. So I thing it would be better to increase it
then the answer is NO. Don't use it.
Why??????
Serge
oh
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Zoomspeed
[B]From what I've read all of those store bought octane booster suck. It says raises 10 points but what they really mean is it raises it by 10 tenths (.1) of a point. So form reading the package you would think it takes you from 90 to 100 octane, but its actually 90 to 91 octane (90+.1,+.2,+.3,........+1.0)
Damn...only .1 point...That suck!
Thank you.
Serge
[B]From what I've read all of those store bought octane booster suck. It says raises 10 points but what they really mean is it raises it by 10 tenths (.1) of a point. So form reading the package you would think it takes you from 90 to 100 octane, but its actually 90 to 91 octane (90+.1,+.2,+.3,........+1.0)
Damn...only .1 point...That suck!
Thank you.
Serge
Re: oh
[QUOTE]Originally posted by serge1
[B]
yeah no joke, especally if your paying liek $7 for the bottle.
[B]
Originally posted by Zoomspeed
From what I've read all of those store bought octane booster suck. It says raises 10 points but what they really mean is it raises it by 10 tenths (.1) of a point. So form reading the package you would think it takes you from 90 to 100 octane, but its actually 90 to 91 octane (90+.1,+.2,+.3,........+1.0)
Damn...only .1 point...That suck!
Thank you.
Serge
From what I've read all of those store bought octane booster suck. It says raises 10 points but what they really mean is it raises it by 10 tenths (.1) of a point. So form reading the package you would think it takes you from 90 to 100 octane, but its actually 90 to 91 octane (90+.1,+.2,+.3,........+1.0)
Damn...only .1 point...That suck!
Thank you.
Serge
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Originally posted by SleepR1
I use race gas, 104 Sunoco, 106 Elf, or 110 Cam 2 unleaded for track events only. The Octane Booster is better than nothing if you're trying to minimize pre-ignition pinging...
I use race gas, 104 Sunoco, 106 Elf, or 110 Cam 2 unleaded for track events only. The Octane Booster is better than nothing if you're trying to minimize pre-ignition pinging...
I did better my quarter mile times with octane booster.
Very true...you'll need to remap your timing to take advantage of the higher octane rating. If you're in a bind or want a bit of extra protection, either Toluene or Xylene will both work. I believe they're rated at 116 and 117 octane respecively, and you can purchase them by the gallon at any paint store for about $6. Essentially it "is" gas, petrolium byproduct, and also highly toxic. But it'll do the job and I can' t imagine it being worse than say leaded gas. Chemical engineers/tree huggers, correct me if I'm wrong :-) I've used it in both the RX7 and a supercharged, dare I say, piston powered, vehicle. Again, if you're tuned correctly, you won't need it and you'll need to retune to take advantage of race gas properties. That being said, I usually run a 3:1 mix of pump to race gas when I hit the drag strip just to be safe.
Michel
Michel
Originally posted by rx7tt95
Very true...you'll need to remap your timing to take advantage of the higher octane rating. If you're in a bind or want a bit of extra protection, either Toluene or Xylene will both work. I believe they're rated at 116 and 117 octane respecively, and you can purchase them by the gallon at any paint store for about $6. Essentially it "is" gas, petrolium byproduct, and also highly toxic. But it'll do the job and I can' t imagine it being worse than say leaded gas. Chemical engineers/tree huggers, correct me if I'm wrong :-) I've used it in both the RX7 and a supercharged, dare I say, piston powered, vehicle. Again, if you're tuned correctly, you won't need it and you'll need to retune to take advantage of race gas properties. That being said, I usually run a 3:1 mix of pump to race gas when I hit the drag strip just to be safe.
Michel
Very true...you'll need to remap your timing to take advantage of the higher octane rating. If you're in a bind or want a bit of extra protection, either Toluene or Xylene will both work. I believe they're rated at 116 and 117 octane respecively, and you can purchase them by the gallon at any paint store for about $6. Essentially it "is" gas, petrolium byproduct, and also highly toxic. But it'll do the job and I can' t imagine it being worse than say leaded gas. Chemical engineers/tree huggers, correct me if I'm wrong :-) I've used it in both the RX7 and a supercharged, dare I say, piston powered, vehicle. Again, if you're tuned correctly, you won't need it and you'll need to retune to take advantage of race gas properties. That being said, I usually run a 3:1 mix of pump to race gas when I hit the drag strip just to be safe.
Michel
Here in KS the best I can get is 91
It all depends.
On the average stock car a boost in octane does not yield much. The octane rating of gasoline is actually its resistance to ignite and not its potential energy rating. Gasoline's potential or chemical energy is measured in BTUs. Usually a higher octane pump gas will contain a higher BTU rating. This is were you may or may not see a small increase in power. But increasing your octane allows you to do mods to your car safely that was not possible with low octane. Modifyiing your car (ie. turbo) creates more internal heat. More heat leads to detonation and pre-ignition.
1. So, on a stock car an octane boost will not give you any gains but since the BTU rating is usually higher this is where you will see gains if any.
2. A lot of modern cars have a knock sensing timing advance system. (The more advance you have in your ignition timing usually gives you slightly more power depending on conditions like ambient temp). The timing advance system allows the ecu to optimize timing by advancing the timing until the engine actually detonates or knocks then backs off a bit. This only occurs in closed loop. This happens so fast you don't notice it and it doesn't affect the reliability.
-so therefore by using a higher octane the ecu can advance the timing further because the higher octane will not knock as early.
3. This is my opinion on using high octane on an N/A. Rotaries tend to build up carbon a lot which can be cause by the air/fuel not fully igniting. Since higher octane resists ignition more than lower octane people tend to think that using lower octane will fully burn the air/fuel mixture thereby creating less carbon. This is what I think. YES this may be true. BUT a good ignition system stock or aftermarket is capable of burning high octane efficiently. Now I've never tried and tested using only high octane with the stock ignition so I don't know how good or poor the stock ignition is but I believe that a good ignition, stock or aftermarket is capable of burning most of the air/fuel.
4. Rotaries tend to run hot. This is my opinion again. Use high octane on the track.
5. You may gain power in the open loop or WOT by advancing your ignition timing.
On the average stock car a boost in octane does not yield much. The octane rating of gasoline is actually its resistance to ignite and not its potential energy rating. Gasoline's potential or chemical energy is measured in BTUs. Usually a higher octane pump gas will contain a higher BTU rating. This is were you may or may not see a small increase in power. But increasing your octane allows you to do mods to your car safely that was not possible with low octane. Modifyiing your car (ie. turbo) creates more internal heat. More heat leads to detonation and pre-ignition.
1. So, on a stock car an octane boost will not give you any gains but since the BTU rating is usually higher this is where you will see gains if any.
2. A lot of modern cars have a knock sensing timing advance system. (The more advance you have in your ignition timing usually gives you slightly more power depending on conditions like ambient temp). The timing advance system allows the ecu to optimize timing by advancing the timing until the engine actually detonates or knocks then backs off a bit. This only occurs in closed loop. This happens so fast you don't notice it and it doesn't affect the reliability.
-so therefore by using a higher octane the ecu can advance the timing further because the higher octane will not knock as early.
3. This is my opinion on using high octane on an N/A. Rotaries tend to build up carbon a lot which can be cause by the air/fuel not fully igniting. Since higher octane resists ignition more than lower octane people tend to think that using lower octane will fully burn the air/fuel mixture thereby creating less carbon. This is what I think. YES this may be true. BUT a good ignition system stock or aftermarket is capable of burning high octane efficiently. Now I've never tried and tested using only high octane with the stock ignition so I don't know how good or poor the stock ignition is but I believe that a good ignition, stock or aftermarket is capable of burning most of the air/fuel.
4. Rotaries tend to run hot. This is my opinion again. Use high octane on the track.
5. You may gain power in the open loop or WOT by advancing your ignition timing.
use toulene. but before you do, read this:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hlight=toulene
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hlight=toulene
Well I have the PFC and using its knock sensor reading as a general base, my maps would generally give a max knock reading of around 45 to 48 at WOT in 4th gear. After adding some of the Prestone octane booster (orange bottle), my max knock number dropped to 20 to 25, with 23 being the average. Of course the FD is my weekend car and I don't have to fill it up alot, so a bottle every few weeks at a fill up isn't much for me, filling up every 3 days and adding a bottle would be a little much. So atleast the Prestone brand I use does indeed raise the octane enough for the PFS to notice and show a lower knock number. I've been using it for the past 8 or 9 months so its not just a tankful an I think its great stuff. In fact I didn't use a bottle for 2 fillups just to see what the knock number would be. It rose to the mid 40's again. Next fillup added a bottle and dropped the number back down to mid 20's
Tim Benton- stuff works for me
Tim Benton- stuff works for me
you can always make a batch of fuel and take a sample of it to a lab like a school and determine the octane you have made to determine if "your" formula was worth it.
like tim said...people like us who use the car as a "weekend racer" can do this every tank with little dents in our pocket.
like tim said...people like us who use the car as a "weekend racer" can do this every tank with little dents in our pocket.
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