If this is the list to be on then I want to be close to the top. I will get close with stock twins and non ported motor....

Is Boostn7 the only one who ran that time with stock twins and non ported motor?

 

The list is a bit dated. Boostn7 is now at the top with an 11.0 something. I have an 11.69 now too so I'm on there. I will update what I have in a bit.

 

Slowly creeping my 1/8th mile down to 9.5 now. 12a power where are the 1st gens at?

 

Here are some times we ran in New Zealand at the weekend:
My 20B JC Cosmo (stock, with street tyres) ran 14.309 at 102.25mph. Heaps of wheelspin, so the 60ft sucks...
A friend's 808/RX3 4door 12A turbo (factory stock engine) ran 13.19 at 109.5mph. This is a street car on MT ET Street drag tyres.
The ex-Australian PAC Performance 13BT RX3 coupe ran a 9.79, but its a dedicated race car.

 

60' - 1.9753
330' - 5.6848
1/8 ET - 8.7280
1/8 mph - 81.64
1000' ET - 11.3263
1/4 ET - 13.5378
1/4 mph - 102.06

Streetport NA 4 port 13B in an 85 GSL-SE, Holley 600dp. RB intake, exhaust, flywheel, pullies.
Tires: 205/60-14 Nankang

608' elevation, 50*F, 2430 lbs at time of run.

 

Dvcn: I like your times, have you tuned your Holley? Do you know what is done to it? I have a 600 also, but not a DP. All I have done to mine is plug my power valve and got a metring block for my sec jets. I am running 65 prims jets and 73 secs. What are you running? I need to richen my prims! 68's?

 

no good 1/4 times, but my best 1/8th was 7.62 @ 92.2

i have a '93 R1 with almost every mod you can bolt on except a single (coming very soon). dynoed at 336rwhp, but was runnin a couple psi less than normal when that pass was made. also had 245 wide nitto 555r's on stock fd wheels

 

R/T - 1.018
60' - 2.136
330 - 6.255
1/8 - 9.732
MPH - 70.13
1000' - 12.747
1/4 - 15.277
MPH - 89.10

Stock 86 SE 106k miles, no cats, rb cat back, cone filter, and bald 205s

 

how in the hell did you get your 60' so low

 

Not to suer except I didn't follow people's advicew who said not to burn out, I burned out to warm up the tires and launched at 6500rpm

 

well, i luanch at around 3500-4000 and slip the clutch. i'm at the edge of adhesion and i can only manage 2.3's. i have 245 yoko avs es100's. they feel like they're gripping really well, but when i see the time slip, it says 2.3. what can i do???

 

try launching higher, those are the 60ft times i got when i launched there and i ran a 15.5 launching hight got me 2.1 60ft and 15.2 1/4 mile, cant hurt to try right?

 

what i'm sayin is, if i try to go any harder i get wheelhop.

 

slip the clutch out of the hole. it's rough on the clutch, but it works. that's how my 1.72 was achieved

 

i do slip the clutch. i hold the rpm around 4000, and when it's time to launch, i slip the clutch and floor it. i try to use the clutch to control the rpms. if i let the clutch out too fast, i'll wheel hop and if i let the clutch out too slow, it just revs higher and i don't really go anywhere.
there is a guy around here that is said to be able to launch anything. i'll let him have a go at it next time at the track.

 

Well if your up for it i'd say try what I did i mean it was only my 4th time dragging my car and i popped the clutch at 6500, i burnt out alot but still got bettre times then when i launched lower, thats when i got wheel hop

 

totallimmortal: If you want your RT times down go on the last light before green! When I figured that out my RT's came way down, .5 is supposed to be ideal? Now since I know the secret, my slow RT's .8, I hope this helps, it helped me out!

 

Thanks i would like to bring that down, but it won't affect my 1/4 mile or 60ft times but anway that was my worst rt f the day my others were .607, .889, and .736, not great but much better than taking over a second after the light turned green

 

Something that will bring down your times would be a deep stage, that is when you line up, you stop as soon as the light turns on. It will give you a few more inches to get up to speed before you brake the laser and start you time. Their is shallow and deep stageing. Iam NOT an expert, just read abou it before.

 

It may be the other way around deep being closer to the line and shallow being farther from the line, either way if you stop as soon as the light comes on you will have a few inches to get going before starting the clock! That will bring your time down slightly.

 

sounds like that might work but i don't want to know what i'll run doing that i want to know how long it takes my car to travle 1/4 mile not 1/4 mile with a few inch rolling start

 

eh, I dont make the rules? That is just the way it works!

 

Deep staging would get your reaction time quicker but 1/4 time slower and the other way around for not going deep.

Usually used by people that bracket race a lot. Basically you don't have to have a quicker car to actually beat someone at the track. For example a low 14s car can beat a mid to high 13s car.

 

in ET racing a 17 second car can beet a 12 second car if the 12 second car breaks out, seen it done, a 1990 automatic ran a 17.9 every time at the track and he one the bracket ET

 

Yes, it's all about driver consistency in bracket racing. I guess what i was trying to say is that by deep staging it's possible to win the race even if you don't bracket race. If you get a quicker reaction time and take off better you can get across the finish line quicker while still having a slower ET time than your opponent. So basically winning the race with a slower elapsed time.