alright guys, i need some tips on wut i should do to my motor. it has a blown apex seal and i'm gonna rebuild it. besides porting and maybe replacing with lighter rotors, wut else can i do to the internals of the motor to make it make high HP but relialbe too. i would like to make this track/street car. i'd really like to beat the **** out of my step-dads old school, pile of steel, "hot rods". He talks **** on us!! i cant take it anymore!! any help would be appreciated! and where could i send my parts to get them serviced or where is a good place to buy parts from??

 

What year/model car?

 

damn, i totally forgot, its '88 TII

 

have the engine rebuilt and street ported. you don't need to change much inside the engine just have the engine builder check everything if you cracked an apex seal you will most likely need atleast one new rotor and one new housing. stock 2mm 3piece seals are very good. you can run hurleys, they are nice because when you break an apex it usually doesn't damage anything inside the engine. www.pineappleracing.com has a very good rep and good warranty

 

i've been looking at racing beat and i noticed the light rotors, rotor clearancing, and they mention balancing the engine. Should i look at those or just ignore? i was definitely planning to do that (porting).

 

there are some places that balance your engine when they rebuild them. Just ask if they do so, and try to find a reputable person who is good, not just some shop that knows how to do it.

BTW, how exactly is an engine balanced (rotary or piston)??

 

Okay dont rebuild it your self... your going to need a rebuild kit a rotor atleast 1 rotorhousing and god knows what else it could end up costing you as much $$$ getting GOOD parts for the motor is it will to just get a rebuild... you can go out and get a cheap rebuild from like atkins rotary or a few other places out there... like ported for under 2k.... or you can go out and get a jspec motor like a 3rd gen motor for 1500? 290 hp or just go out and get a j spec t2 motor for like $750...

 

A pair of lightened rotors will cost between $2,500 and $4,500. Maybe you can afford this, but I don't think it's worth it for a street car. Besides, although any engine would perform better with lightened rotors (or pistons), clearancing, and balancing, these modifications are mostly intended for high-rpm race cars.

Your car should be fairly fast with a street port, aftermarket EMS, high-flow fuel system, ported wastegate, FMIC, K&N filter, and a good DP and exhaust system.

How fast are your step-dad's hot rods, anyway?

 

I think the fastest hot rod he's had was a '70 buick GS Stage I with a 455. He spent alot of money on it, he took me for a ride and told me this was a real car! i was like "wutever", it was pretty fast but i think my car will be faster. Unfortunately he sold it so i'll never get a chance to race him, but now he has a chevy 454 sittin in our shop with all this **** done to it, he's just trying to decide on what kind of car he wants to put it in. Wutever it is, he gonna witness the wrath of the mighty 7 damn it!

 

By the way, which seals should i use, they say the stock are the best, but they **** the motor up when the blow, and they say hurleys dont do any damage. Anyone help me here? I want something that lasts, but when they fail i dont wanna buy more housings and rotors.

 

Hehehe, all that stuff about the seals damaging your engine is just scare-tactic marketing. The seals won't break unless something else is wrong to start with, and you can get a used 13B engine block for about $150 at your local salvage yard. Geez, you can get an entire WORKING 13BT for $800-900, so I wouldn't worry about broken apex seals too much. The OEM seals will be fine. If you want to spend more money, then the HME are good, and the Ianetti are the best IMO.

It's best just to take your engine to a GOOD RX-7 shop, and ask them what they recommend. Each shop will have its persoanal preferences, and it is usually better to let them install parts that they worked with before and know how to integrate into a system with the other parts.

 

Well knowing that, i'm heading to Rotary Performance and let those wizards work their magic!

 

3mm steel single piece seals cryogenicaly treated........

 

Kinda changed my mind on somethin, tell me what yall think. I plan on sending the motor off and getting it ported and what have you, but i also plan on TRYING to rebuild it after it blows (cause its gonna blow) instead of having to spend alot of money sending it to someone else to keep rebuilding it. I'm mechanically inclined (work on cars all the time), a friend of mine is a VERY good mechanic, and i have a Haynes Manual, think its wise?

 

Bridgeport it, awesome.

 

is bridging it to much for street?? it wont be my daily beater, doesnt it give a sloppy idle

 

if u put a bridgy on it it the life expectancy of the engine will be around 40000ks..

 

Well if i learn to rebuild it myself (which i wanna do) then it wont matter how long they last, cause it wont cost me an arm and a leg to get it rebuilt. 40000ks, how many miles is that anyway (dont know what the S stands for)?

 

Noodle: talk to Don marvel he's from your area.....www.marvelspeed.com He's also on this forum under the same name

 

talk to Don marvel he's from your area.....www.marvelspeed.com He's also on this forum under the same name

 

like i was ment to write 400000km...

24800miles.... is 40k's<----- as in thousand

 

25k? , dont think that'll get me thru a summer

 

ok, so far i know that i'm gonna get it street ported, MAYBE bridge it, but i doubt it and use 3 pc 2mm seals. I'm aiming for high hp so would i need to change out the stationary gears and go with modified ones and a 3 window main bearing or just stick with stock? should i also get the exhaust ported? anything else i should look at changing or "upgrading"?

 

If Don Marvel is around, tell him I can't get his page to work, so I can't get his phone number, so I can't call him to rebuild my engine!