Lightend Rotors, Worth The Efort?
#5
CLR does the port phasing and lightening on 88 T2 rotors for $1K I believe. I'm assuming they'd come in less just to lighten the rotors. Just do a search for CLR Motorsports. They're right in Miami by the Tamiami Airport, in the industrial complex.
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...if you lighten them...you're going to have to balance the assembly...might want to get the stationary gears hardened...if your intent is to rev faster and exceed 8000 rpm....next you'll want the e-shaft lightened...and a aluminum flywheel...then....good you live in FL...don't want to do this if you live where there's a lot of hills...
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...oh yeah... for some reason I'm under the impression that it's preferable to lighten the n/a FC rotors...they are the same weight as FD but 9.7:1 compression...I think I read this somewhere...can't remember what the full mods were and advantages....
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/lightweight-rotors%3Dless-torque-379771/
All the info you could ever want on lightened rotors! You'll need to read through the whole thread to come up with some solid answers though. A few of the first posts are incorrect.
-Alex
All the info you could ever want on lightened rotors! You'll need to read through the whole thread to come up with some solid answers though. A few of the first posts are incorrect.
-Alex
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Originally Posted by rarson
What is that supposed to mean?
When you take weight off the rotors, it has the same effect as a lighter flywheel. Have you drove your car with the stock flywheel, then a lighter flywheel?
You typically have to keep the RPM's up to keep the car from stalling when taking off from a complete stop. It's even worse on hills. Lightened rotors will have the same effect as well. When you have both, it makes it even worse.
-Alex
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Has anyone done this to RX-8 rotors?
-Alex
#13
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Not that I'm aware of. I doubt you even could anyways. AFAIK, they're the lightest rotors out of all the rotary engines...Which would mean they have thinner walls than the rest as well.
-Alex
-Alex
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Read the thread I posted above, and you'll figure it out.
When you take weight off the rotors, it has the same effect as a lighter flywheel. Have you drove your car with the stock flywheel, then a lighter flywheel?
You typically have to keep the RPM's up to keep the car from stalling when taking off from a complete stop. It's even worse on hills. Lightened rotors will have the same effect as well. When you have both, it makes it even worse.
-Alex
When you take weight off the rotors, it has the same effect as a lighter flywheel. Have you drove your car with the stock flywheel, then a lighter flywheel?
You typically have to keep the RPM's up to keep the car from stalling when taking off from a complete stop. It's even worse on hills. Lightened rotors will have the same effect as well. When you have both, it makes it even worse.
-Alex
A lot of people don't understand the whole kinetic versus potential energy thing and the mechanism for storing energy in a flywheel. The fact of the matter is, a lighter flywheel will be a benefit whenever the flywheel is accelerating or decelerating. Which is to say, whenever performance is important. A heavier flywheel will only give a benefit in steady-state conditions such as cruising, where the stored energy can help keep the car at speed, resulting in probably better gas mileage. During transient conditions, the lightened flywheel is a benefit, hands-down. And frankly I don't mod my car for cruise conditions.
I've never had a problem with lightened flywheels on hills, and I'd suggest to anyone that does to invest in some more power mods. Nor have I ever had a problem with starting from a stop, but in that case I'd suggest driving lessons.
Lightened rotors aren't really much different. Lessening the resistance to forward motion is going to transfer energy into the crankshaft more efficiently when the engine is accelerating. There isn't any effect on torque, period. The engine will be able to rev faster, whether it's up or down. Transient conditions, just like the flywheel.
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Not that I'm aware of. I doubt you even could anyways. AFAIK, they're the lightest rotors out of all the rotary engines...Which would mean they have thinner walls than the rest as well.
-Alex
-Alex
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Originally Posted by rarson
Right, I was just confirming that he was arriving at the same erroneous conclusion you just arrived at.
Originally Posted by rarson
A lot of people don't understand the whole kinetic versus potential energy thing and the mechanism for storing energy in a flywheel. The fact of the matter is, a lighter flywheel will be a benefit whenever the flywheel is accelerating or decelerating. Which is to say, whenever performance is important. A heavier flywheel will only give a benefit in steady-state conditions such as cruising, where the stored energy can help keep the car at speed, resulting in probably better gas mileage. During transient conditions, the lightened flywheel is a benefit, hands-down. And frankly I don't mod my car for cruise conditions.
A heavier flywheel is a benefit at launching as well. Ever notice how most professional drag racers don't use the lightest flywheel possible? Maybe you should show up to a local event and tell them how stupid they are as well...
For something like road courses, sure, a lighter flywheel is a benefit.
What I'm getting at here is it all depends on the situation. A lighter flywheel isn't better, hands down, in every situation like you seem to think.
Originally Posted by rarson
I've never had a problem with lightened flywheels on hills, and I'd suggest to anyone that does to invest in some more power mods. Nor have I ever had a problem with starting from a stop, but in that case I'd suggest driving lessons.
I'm not sure what your not getting here...A car with a lighter flywheel/rotors will be more prone to stalling when taking off from a stop because there's less stored energy, PERIOD! It's not a problem as long as you keep the RPM's a bit higher.
Hell, same thing goes for simply driving over a hill. A car with a lighter flywheel/rotors will have a harder time, than the same car with a heavier flywheel. Less energy is stored in the lighter flywheel/rotors, so there's less energy to help make it over the hill. (Keeping cars, speed, RPM, HP, TQ, etc. the same)
Originally Posted by rarson
Lightened rotors aren't really much different. Lessening the resistance to forward motion is going to transfer energy into the crankshaft more efficiently when the engine is accelerating. There isn't any effect on torque, period. The engine will be able to rev faster, whether it's up or down. Transient conditions, just like the flywheel.
When it comes down to it, a lighter flywheel/rotors won't always be the best choice. You have to size your flywheel and rotors to what you'll be doing with the car, and conditions encountered.
-Alex
Last edited by TT_Rex_7; 08-09-06 at 11:11 PM.
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Well, rather than nitpick on small details of your reply, I'll just leave the off-topicness where it is, because I basically agree with everything you said. I did read all of that thread a while ago and there was some right and wrong info in it, and I think I posted a little hastily, sorry. Anyway, back to the subject...
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Originally Posted by rarson
I did read all of that thread a while ago and there was some right and wrong info in it, and I think I posted a little hastily, sorry.
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=379771
All the info you could ever want on lightened rotors! You'll need to read through the whole thread to come up with some solid answers though. A few of the first posts are incorrect.
-Alex
All the info you could ever want on lightened rotors! You'll need to read through the whole thread to come up with some solid answers though. A few of the first posts are incorrect.
-Alex
-Alex
#19
Yep.
RX-8 rotors are casted very thin and you cannot remove much weight from them.
I have f..k up many trying to do so. The amount of weight that can be remove safely from RX-8 rotors in my opinion are not worth it. You're better off with a set of lightened and balanced S5 rotors and counter weights.
RX-8 rotors are casted very thin and you cannot remove much weight from them.
I have f..k up many trying to do so. The amount of weight that can be remove safely from RX-8 rotors in my opinion are not worth it. You're better off with a set of lightened and balanced S5 rotors and counter weights.
#20
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
A heavier flywheel is a benefit at launching as well. Ever notice how most professional drag racers don't use the lightest flywheel possible? Maybe you should show up to a local event and tell them how stupid they are as well...
-Alex
That statemnet would work but then explain why the professional teams Fidanza sponders making one-off custom flywheels to the teams specs are all VERY light. The one rotary team they sponser use a 2lb,( TWO, dos, 1+1,) pound flywheel. They must be stupid too ::
#22
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The only place a heavy flywheel helps is at launch in a drag race. After the launch the advantage is gone. Yes a lighter flywheel will help get away from a stop light smoothly and also make an engine idle smoother but (transfer less vibration to the mounts) but it won't affect going up a hill. Consider that you have four other flywheels spinning at each corner of the car. Wheels, tires, brakes. The energy stored in a flywheel at highway speeds isn't enough to carry the car very far up a hill compared to the energy in the whole chassis of "x" pounds at "y" mph.
#23
You cannot judge launching inertia from just the weight of the flywheel. It's the entire rotating assembly. There are clutch/flywheel combinations where the flywheel is much lighter than the clutch components for example most dragracing setups that have a huge twin disc setup. My buddies car has a total mass of 45lbs clutch+flwheel of which the flywheel only weighs 10lbs. There is also other scenarios for example where very lightweight motor components are used like in the case of a rotary lightened rotors, weights and ecentric shaft coupled to a 4.5inch twin or tripple disc where a slightly heavier flywheel to regain some inertia is used. Also the design of the flywheel/clutch also have an effect on inertia. You can take two a like clutches that weigh the same but the one with the weight more centered is going to have the lowest effect on launch. So in all it's not just the weight of the flywheel that matters. It's the entire package and it's intended use. If you're comparing apples to apples is one thing but everyone is speaking in general. Some of the worst twin disc setups I've seen come from Japan where the actual rotating assembley after the flywheel is actually heavier than the stock stuff although the flywheel that it came with is not even light enough to compensate and it's advertised as being lighter. I'm not going to name manufacturer. In case you did not know the heavier a clutch disc is the harder the factory syncros have to work.
Last edited by crispeed; 10-25-06 at 03:29 AM.
#24
Originally Posted by jgrewe
The only place a heavy flywheel helps is at launch in a drag race. After the launch the advantage is gone.
Last edited by crispeed; 10-25-06 at 03:30 AM.
#25
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I'm curious if the 10mph increase is coming from shifting too late in the rpm range? I don't drag race so I can't speak of finer details that can show up in dataq but that sounds like its possible. I can see if the engine doesn't have time to wind down during the shift and the rpm difference of the drive line would then give you a kick in the butt.
It was worth waking up today, I just learned something!
It was worth waking up today, I just learned something!