Latest Experiment…Failure!
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Looks really nice Adam.
Are you using the TB (Throttle Body) heater line for something? If it is just by-passing the exhaust side of the engine I would plug it.
Barry
Are you using the TB (Throttle Body) heater line for something? If it is just by-passing the exhaust side of the engine I would plug it.
Barry
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Barry
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Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
The heater core does bypass water and lots of it. I don't know, if Mazda did it right they would have took into account the throttle body heater line and heater core line, and as such they're really isn't much to be gained by blocking off both. The main reason I jumpered the TB line to the front is to allow a passage for air to escape the system that would otherwise be trapped at the back of the motor. It is the second highest cooling point on the motor.
Yes a very good place to burp the system. Still how much water flow can we afford to bypass?
Yes a very good place to burp the system. Still how much water flow can we afford to bypass?
Barry
An inline restrictor pill would allow burping but limit bypass flow at the TB line.
As far as the heater core.....an inline shut-off valve?? Though, I really don't want to do that. I'll give this some thought.
Racing Bling Baby
As far as the heater core.....an inline shut-off valve?? Though, I really don't want to do that. I'll give this some thought.
Racing Bling Baby
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Maybe a restrictor in the heater line also, that way the heater core would be less likely to corrode.
Barry
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Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Good idea on the tape, I might do that.
You know what would be cool is a compact electric motor actuated shutoff off valve that would be used at the return line for the heater core. I can easily get them, but they're bulky and ungodly expensive; especially the stainless steel units.
Or just do a manual one:
http://www.rcaccessory.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=267
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7911...ff-Valves.html
http://www.pexsupply.com/product_dtl...droPEX&cID=347
You know what would be cool is a compact electric motor actuated shutoff off valve that would be used at the return line for the heater core. I can easily get them, but they're bulky and ungodly expensive; especially the stainless steel units.
Or just do a manual one:
http://www.rcaccessory.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=267
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7911...ff-Valves.html
http://www.pexsupply.com/product_dtl...droPEX&cID=347
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Good idea on the tape, I might do that.
You know what would be cool is a compact electric motor actuated shutoff off valve that would be used at the return line for the heater core. I can easily get them, but they're bulky and ungodly expensive; especially the stainless steel units.
Or just do a manual one:
You know what would be cool is a compact electric motor actuated shutoff off valve that would be used at the return line for the heater core. I can easily get them, but they're bulky and ungodly expensive; especially the stainless steel units.
Or just do a manual one:
Barry
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
I was talking with Chuck Westbrook today and he brought up an interesting question. Has anyone using synthetic oil seen the carbon spots on both sides of the spark plug holes?
Chuck’s contention was that since the housing gets to be 400şF wouldn’t it be logical for there to be carbon produced in that area.
Very true, since mineral oils die before that 400şF.
My thoughts were that the seal would soon wear it off if the housing was flat in that area, and that the hot spark plug boss was the problem for the stains and possibly the main cause of apex seal breakage…..
Anyway has anyone using synthetic oil not seen the carbon stains?
Barry
Chuck’s contention was that since the housing gets to be 400şF wouldn’t it be logical for there to be carbon produced in that area.
Very true, since mineral oils die before that 400şF.
My thoughts were that the seal would soon wear it off if the housing was flat in that area, and that the hot spark plug boss was the problem for the stains and possibly the main cause of apex seal breakage…..
Anyway has anyone using synthetic oil not seen the carbon stains?
Barry
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX.
most localized overheat causes an actual bubble to form at the plug area, bubble can not transfer any heat away from that area, and temps skyrocket in only that area, wont show on temp gage, I use Evans coolant does not allow bubbles to form,400* boiling point. no water at all to boil. and my water pump mods,might not work for everyone. but used a machined S4 pump with a big impellor from a 1975 Cosmo pump, very hi volume and hi pressure flow. YUP! did these mods about 10yrs ago. Thx Ron
curious how much does that gold shielding reduce intake temperatures? I've got a new heatshield in there but still is hotter than what i'd like. Also who make it? also do you use any special gaskets inbetween the engine and the intake to reduce temp transfer? Sorry to get a bit off topic ...
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
most localized overheat causes an actual bubble to form at the plug area, bubble can not transfer any heat away from that area, and temps skyrocket in only that area, wont show on temp gage, I use Evans coolant does not allow bubbles to form,400* boiling point. no water at all to boil. and my water pump mods,might not work for everyone. but used a machined S4 pump with a big impellor from a 1975 Cosmo pump, very hi volume and hi pressure flow. YUP! did these mods about 10yrs ago. Thx Ron
Thanks for the tips on the water pump.
The extra flow from the pump would be a big help. Is the impeller on the 1975 Cosmo pump the same as the newer RE engine's pump?
Barry
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX.
I dont know if the RE impellor is the same as 1975 Cosmo imp, cosmo imp was about 3/8 " larger in diameter, than S4 turbo pump, made of cast iron so could be polished and shaped, had to machine the housing to make it fit with a tite clearnce, as i remember the s4 had a pretty wide clearence, like 1/8", tighter you can make it more pressure the pump can make, volume you get from the diameter, and smoothing things out to enhance flow. its all basic hotrod ideas from the last 40-50yrs. when you get guys thinkin they can come up with good S#^T, the internet has just sped up all the info. Thx Ron
the 16x is shorter also, with the narrower rotors; and much lighter since its all aluminum...
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 912
Likes: 1
From: Norway
Barry what do u think has happend here?
My old housings did not look like this at all, this housing is brand new, and has maybe 30-40 hours on them. Now i should say that im running BUR9EQP on E85 on this engine. And also using a castor based 2 stroke syntethic oil. I used to use AGIP 2 stroke racing oil before and my old housings look realy good.
Jan-Tore
My old housings did not look like this at all, this housing is brand new, and has maybe 30-40 hours on them. Now i should say that im running BUR9EQP on E85 on this engine. And also using a castor based 2 stroke syntethic oil. I used to use AGIP 2 stroke racing oil before and my old housings look realy good.
Jan-Tore
just a quick correction here, the 16x housings are the same external size as the current renesis. The internal size is what increased for the larger rotor thus making the rotor housings "thinner" and the cooling passages smaller in the perpendicular direction.
the 16x is shorter also, with the narrower rotors; and much lighter since its all aluminum...
the 16x is shorter also, with the narrower rotors; and much lighter since its all aluminum...
Nope same external profile to the 13B.
Update:
EGTs were dead nuts when on the dyno, note I'm running a GZ LIM, but still it's looking like the front and rear rotors are pretty close as far as AFRs.
Only minor coolant blow-by at the lower earl fitting on the rear rotor. Will be going to a more flexible setup later.
My timing curves are still conservative at this time, once I have more time to spend on a dyno to finish the maps I will post what I was able to acheive before I experience minor knock. As it stands I'm at 400whp and 300 ft-lbs at 15psi on pump with premix.
This weekend will be a true stress test a far as coolant performance with the Time Attack. Wish me luck!
Adam
Update:
EGTs were dead nuts when on the dyno, note I'm running a GZ LIM, but still it's looking like the front and rear rotors are pretty close as far as AFRs.
Only minor coolant blow-by at the lower earl fitting on the rear rotor. Will be going to a more flexible setup later.
My timing curves are still conservative at this time, once I have more time to spend on a dyno to finish the maps I will post what I was able to acheive before I experience minor knock. As it stands I'm at 400whp and 300 ft-lbs at 15psi on pump with premix.
This weekend will be a true stress test a far as coolant performance with the Time Attack. Wish me luck!
Adam