Latest Experiment…Failure!
Now it seems that the older 13b problem has been solved and can be applied to the Renesis as well in the spark plug area. But the Renesis has another problem that is a major failure point. Heating and lack of cooling at the exhaust port.
In this link to Pettit, they mention port work to the coolant passages to prevent this. I am wondering What They are doing...
RX8 Engines
In this link to Pettit, they mention port work to the coolant passages to prevent this. I am wondering What They are doing...
RX8 Engines
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
The engine is a RE street port with a TO4Z running pre and post water/meth and 4-500 hp depending on boost.
It has literally done hundreds of 3rd pulls to 8000 rpm while doing combustion pressure testing.
Other reliability mods include 2-stroke oil tank for the OMP, cold-air intake with 9 inch K&N filter, a Remedy water pump, Zero-clearance side seals, and optimized ignition timing.
Barry
It has literally done hundreds of 3rd pulls to 8000 rpm while doing combustion pressure testing.
Other reliability mods include 2-stroke oil tank for the OMP, cold-air intake with 9 inch K&N filter, a Remedy water pump, Zero-clearance side seals, and optimized ignition timing.
Barry
The engine is a RE street port with a TO4Z running pre and post water/meth and 4-500 hp depending on boost.
It has literally done hundreds of 3rd pulls to 8000 rpm while doing combustion pressure testing.
Other reliability mods include 2-stroke oil tank for the OMP, cold-air intake with 9 inch K&N filter, a Remedy water pump, Zero-clearance side seals, and optimized ignition timing.
Barry
It has literally done hundreds of 3rd pulls to 8000 rpm while doing combustion pressure testing.
Other reliability mods include 2-stroke oil tank for the OMP, cold-air intake with 9 inch K&N filter, a Remedy water pump, Zero-clearance side seals, and optimized ignition timing.
Barry
So you are running the SOHN adapter on the omp?
That pic looks really small on my pc, any chance you can upload it so it is full size?
The idea behind cutting the ribs I think is that as the piece where the spark plug is screwed heat up and expands, the ribs do do not heat up and pull on the inner envelope where the spark plug boss expands and makes the inner envelope no plane anymore, causing the known loss of sealing everywhere apart from around the leading plug.
when the ribs are cut, they cannot pull on the inner envelope and this way as the spark plug boss heat up and pushes the chrone imwards, it will move over the entire width inwards and not just on the around the leading hole, thus maintaining a more straight sealing surface.
at least thats what I tought how it worked..
The idea behind cutting the ribs I think is that as the piece where the spark plug is screwed heat up and expands, the ribs do do not heat up and pull on the inner envelope where the spark plug boss expands and makes the inner envelope no plane anymore, causing the known loss of sealing everywhere apart from around the leading plug.
when the ribs are cut, they cannot pull on the inner envelope and this way as the spark plug boss heat up and pushes the chrone imwards, it will move over the entire width inwards and not just on the around the leading hole, thus maintaining a more straight sealing surface.
at least thats what I tought how it worked..
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 815
Likes: 42
From: western europe
Barry -
Can you summarize the work you've done to the rotor housings to achieve these results? You did this a few pages back but I wonder what modifications, if any, changed over time and with this particular set of housings. A pictorial of the work would be most great if possible.
How much of the rotor housing surface cleanliness do you attribute to 1) the water passage modifications, 2) the water/meth injection, and 3) the use of two-stroke oil as opposed to engine oil? I'm inclined to think water/meth injection would be a big contributor to the desirable surface condition?
Excellent thread.
Can you summarize the work you've done to the rotor housings to achieve these results? You did this a few pages back but I wonder what modifications, if any, changed over time and with this particular set of housings. A pictorial of the work would be most great if possible.
How much of the rotor housing surface cleanliness do you attribute to 1) the water passage modifications, 2) the water/meth injection, and 3) the use of two-stroke oil as opposed to engine oil? I'm inclined to think water/meth injection would be a big contributor to the desirable surface condition?
Excellent thread.
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
If you look closely at the stock housing on the left, you'll notice the factory end mill cuts of approximately 5/16 of an inch on the leading plug boss.
I try to remove that 5/16 material all the way across from one side to the other. Being careful not to cut anything from the plug boss itself.
Sorry that the images are reversed.
Barry
I try to remove that 5/16 material all the way across from one side to the other. Being careful not to cut anything from the plug boss itself.
Sorry that the images are reversed.
Barry
Something I have been tossing around lately. A lot of the old school 12a/13b ignition set ups run even better without the trailing coil so no spark/heat will be generated there. I have done this as well and remember reading something years ago saying it was done to prevent damage and save motors way back as well.
Any thoughts on this Barry?
I have only done this on an NA application. I'm not sure if it would cause a major power loss in boosted applications.
Any thoughts on this Barry?
I have only done this on an NA application. I'm not sure if it would cause a major power loss in boosted applications.
Thread Starter
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Slidell, LA
sen2two,
The 1984 Recent Improvements SAE paper had a fig.20 on page 8 with a diagram showing just leading plugs with different rotor pockets.
The leading flat pocket was best with just the leading plug.
Interesting point though that I think you are making that it might eliminate the detonation prone area near the trailing plug area.
Note the middle pocket was best with both plugs firing.
Barry
The 1984 Recent Improvements SAE paper had a fig.20 on page 8 with a diagram showing just leading plugs with different rotor pockets.
The leading flat pocket was best with just the leading plug.
Interesting point though that I think you are making that it might eliminate the detonation prone area near the trailing plug area.
Note the middle pocket was best with both plugs firing.
Barry
Something I have been tossing around lately. A lot of the old school 12a/13b ignition set ups run even better without the trailing coil so no spark/heat will be generated there. I have done this as well and remember reading something years ago saying it was done to prevent damage and save motors way back as well.
Any thoughts on this Barry?
I have only done this on an NA application. I'm not sure if it would cause a major power loss in boosted applications.
Any thoughts on this Barry?
I have only done this on an NA application. I'm not sure if it would cause a major power loss in boosted applications.
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