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Internal Modifications to a bridgeport

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Old Nov 3, 2002 | 12:14 PM
  #1  
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Internal Modifications to a bridgeport

I am building a bridgeport motor from a t2 block with high comp rotating setup (n/a). How necessary is it to build with carbon seals, hardened gears, clearencing, if I am going to rev limit at 9000?
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 04:18 AM
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Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Hi!
It will be needed, when you rev past 8000 the apex seals start to resonate.this is highly unwanted, as it gives poor sealing, and the chance of breakage goes up.The stationary gears that are hardened will prevent it from chipping a tooth, and the rotor"sagging".In extreme cases, i have seen broken rotors and even eccentric shafts as off this.Clearancing the eccentric shaft will also minimise the chance of eccentric shaft breakage, seeing that it starts to whiplash above 9000.Carbon seals will help alot when you go past 8500, if you slip a gear, and go to infinty and beyond, the chances of breaking your rotor housings with steel seals are almost 100%, steel last longer, but have a basic limit of 8-8500 , to be safe.The series 3 Seq Turbo motor`s stasionary gears will be the best, but will require some slight mods.
I would suggest to buy, 3 window bearings, carbon seals and stationary gears from Racingbeat, their the cheapest and offer one of the top customer services.

Hope this helped?
Would you post some pics when your busy..i`d love to see the way you did it , always good to see how other people do it !!

Keep well.
Karis
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Old Nov 4, 2002 | 09:10 PM
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Thanks for the info, sure will post pics when I start the rebuild!
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 12:44 PM
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Will you be efi or carb?
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 03:32 PM
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Early on i was seriously considering carb, but now I think FI is a better route. Haltech E6K.
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 06:42 AM
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I run this exact same set up but I use nitrous in top of that. In my experience the carbon aluminium apex seals from Racing Beat just don't seal well enough. I would suggest Atkins 2mm apex seal(really seals great and does not flutter at high rpm's) hardend front and rear stationary gears 3 window rear main bearing, check your eccentric shaft for run out. Make sure you really make a nice hole(bridgeport) on that engine.. Tra,Tra,Tra,Tra,
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 07:40 AM
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Hi Suds,

Racing Beat catalog, must-read. Bruce Turrentine's video is excellent as well. RB's tips: high PSI oil pressure regulator, plenty of oil clearance, rejet the eshaft, top-shelf stationary gears/ bearings, and snapring (or drill/tap/set screw/peen the rotor gears. Don't forget to turn one set of apex seals around - don't want them dropping into the intake runner.

Here's a few porting pics

Let us know when you port through into the water jacket. There's a thread on that around here somewhere

Steve C.
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 12:38 AM
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Thanks for all the info everyone

I am considering nitrous as well judge, how big of a shot do you run? Carb or standalone? I'll have a few more questions later

qwck10th: What do you mean by turning one set of apex seals around?
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 12:40 AM
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And judge, how much horsepower w/o nitrous?
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Old Nov 8, 2002 | 02:51 AM
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Originally posted by Suds7

qwck10th: What do you mean by turning one set of apex seals around?
I think he means fliping them around on the #2 rotor so the corner pieces face the intermediate plate.
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