All that hype and you can't even use them on turbo motors anymore.

I've gone through 5 motors due to hurley saying that I just got a bad batch of seals.BS!

I blew my last motor last saturday so I decided to call Dave @ KD ROTARY and talked to him about it.He says that he will never use Hurley seals on turbo cars because they are junk.He will only use them on non turbo cars.

Well...........looks like our only options are stock seals or 3mm.

 

I agree!

 

Iannetti

 

Mazda!

 

Has anyone had experience with some ceremic seals from NRS Rotorsports in Canada?

 

Yea, If they didn't cost an arm and a leg..

 

If you wanna play you gotta pay. That will be one arm, and half a leg, please.

 

Does anyone have hard info on these seals?

 

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com

0000-01-9103 2mm Iannetti Ceramic (up to 19psi boost)
0000-01-9105 3mm Iannetti Ceramic (up to 24psi boost)

Call for info:

(800) 435-2508 US
(949) 222-2652 Outside US

 

How about the seals Atkins Rotary sells?

 

man sorry about that. those Iannetti seals sound bad *** for a turbo car. try those. and what about atkins seals??

 

Whoa-- 5 motors!! Ouch

 

whos tunning your car??? Im sure dyno tunning has alot to do with it.

 

dayum that funny, i still find it very amusing that people advertise apex seals -up to X psi. i saw some advertised over here the other day, good for upto 25psi. I'd put money on it that i could break them at 12psi boost with 30+ degrees of advance on crappy octane gas.

 

Shane, yes it is gay as **** that some pro sites rate there products in such an unscientific way.

But you gotta remember they deal with a fair few homosexuals who have trouble dealing with the stench from their mothers anus, let alone with knowing what the **** they are paying for.

Dumb ***** listen to dumb advise - simple. The world still goes round and the sun still rises everyday, and morons will continue to purchase **** they just do not need !

I gotta go take my pills now !

 

hrm... if you use iannetti seals, its probably a better idea to use brand new housings...

 

Yes, over here in the US we have a major dumb ****, Rick Engman, who swears by these seals and advises everyone to use them. I don't know why any of the local morons listen to him, as it's not like he's the most reputable rotary engine mechanic in the world or anything. I realize that your country has much more experienced street racers who are able to dole out better advice, but unfortunately we in the US are stuck with the likes of Mr. Engman and Dr. Iannetti.

 

Are we still in the apex seal theme? If you tune for a some 11.0 11.3 to 1 A/F ratios stock 2mm seals are great. Ill be honest a buddies car 36lbs of boost 150hp of nitrous shot 695rwhp runs all season(year) on one engine on stock 2mm seals. this engine is constanly abused. launching at or over 10,000 rpm every single time and we cannot complaine about the stock 2mm seals. Yes the ceramics could take more heat and a tunner could lean out the engine a bit more for some extra power, but for two reasons I just don't like the ceramics. Too much money and when they break, say good bye charlie to your entire engine. Stock seals do break and cause some damage, for example when you have a severe detonation, but we have broken a couple of times when the apex seals just brakes the tip and no damage is done. just rebuild the engine and back to the dyno.

 

Judge Ito, that is kind of what I was getting at in my own "style" (sorry Evil Aviator, I know thats no excuse)

It would be nice to simply follow what other experts say, but the plain facts and weight of numbers do not follow what the say to be the only way.

I realy have lost count of the number of drag people using std 2mm Mazda seals, going all the way back to Adam in the stupidly fast RX7 to our own Anthony Rodrigues (cant believe I am praising him !, though he does deserve it) to my friend Judge Ito and MANY MANY others, they all manage to get these things to last.

Me in my own little way with my daily driven 566bhp 13B running 20psi minimum boost proves that these seals are reliable, and I circuit race my car + road drive it. I am not going to say that Ianetti seals or other are not the better solution, but are they necessary and do they seal better ? I dont think so .... I would say I know so but this is only from my experience. I am not in the league of others mentioned here but I have been building these things for over 10 years and I switched back to the std 2mm seal, I encourage my friends and customers to use them too, cause they just work, not only that I know they make more power than almost any other seal I have tried.

I find it quite amusing to read the Hurley story as I never had the chance to try them, I never realy liked their specs, material or design personally .. but i hope they sort their problems out.

 

Rice, the one thing that I like about the Ceramics is the fact that you don't have to wory about apex seal wear or housing wear. One rebuild with two new housings & a new set of apex seals and you've paid for the ceramics...

Opinions?

 

I heard the ceramics don't provide as much compression at low rpms. Is this true?

 

This is true with the single piece vs: 2 & 3 piece seals. Nothing really to do with ceramics...

Since ceramics don't wear you can get away with running a higher spring rate which helps with the low RPM sealing. (that is why the single piece ceramics are the most common)

 

Yes the ceramic apex seals do have a bit of a sealing problem at low rpm.not because they're ceramic but because they are a 1 piece seal not a 2 piece like the factory mazda units,and its when the engine is cold that this becomes most noticeable.
the 1 piece seal needs to be clearanced properly length wise so when it gets hot & expands it doesn't become longer than the width of the rotor housing & rub on the end plates.
due to the different mixtures & tune ups different guys put in their engines this clearance can vary quite a bit from person to person...ie..the guy who's running 40psi boost at an afr of 12.5 will need a "looser" clearance than a guy running 15psi at 11.0 afr as the seal will expand much more due to the higher amount of heat produced.
RE gards
Jon
RX Engineering

 

Not a chance.

Just had a REAL bad experience with Atkins. Seems the metal used (at least in their 3mms) has a coefficient of expansion higher than stock. Translated that means that when you have properly milled your rotors to low spec. (closer to the tight side than the sloppy side) the seals will seize once they get hot. 2 rebuilds later and a couple of phone calls revealed that info. No offers of help from Atkins with either new seals or parts, just blame for not having the rotors milled by Atkins.

While I have no independent experience with Hurley, I gotta say I have heard nothing to recommend them at all except for their own claims of superiority.

In a perfect world with unlimited $$$$$....... Iannetti seals with perfected ceramic coated housings.

Until then......MAZDA or Rotary Performance

 

3 yrs ago, i was at my tuner shop and the owner along with the owner of another shop in another state (I don't want to mention names) were talking about them. The problem one of them had (eventhough he sells them) is that the quality control was difficult due to lack of technology that was affordable. there was no way to ensure that the structural integrity was going to be equal through out the entire length of material. Sometimes they would let go for no reason. like idling! it's been a while but i wonder if they have resolved this issue. I'm also sponsored by Mazdacomp and have spoken to them about this and their answer was, that most racers rebuild their engines frequently, so it wouldn't really apply to those who use it on the street. my .02 cents. So what's the deal now. has this issue been resolved.