Ianetti x-rays every set of seals to check for weaknesses then give you that x-ray when you buy them.

 

REally i guess he's resolved this matter. because for the money i wouldn't want my engine to pop when it's idling.

 

I am making 490RWHP on 18PSI on a set of there seals with no problems at all so far. I am about to wind the boost up once I find a boost controller I like and am expecting to see 575-600RWHP. Have you ever thought that there could be some problem with your tune or with your engine build ??? Is it always the same rotor .................... could be some bad machining even !!!!

 

Yogi, I would love to see a dyno sheet if you have it available.

Give us some detail of your set up, did you build the engine........ That is crazy power for that boost if you used a dyno dynamics system !

 

No that's in projected American RWHP as you know the Americans like big numbers and there dyno's are calibrated accordingly (no offence intended to any of our American friends as dyno printout's are purely academic unless it's the same dyno on the same day) The motor ran 426 RWHP at 18PSI on an Australian Dyno Dynamics dyno at only 6700 RPM .......... I dare say that if I rev it out a little more there will be a few more untapped Hp waiting to be discovered. But since my engine builder want's me to keep the rev's down as I do as many sprint day's as work and my budget will allow we tried to keep both boost, rev's and Hp to a reasonable level. My setup is just the usual S4 block with modified oil relief valve, multi oil grooved stationary gears, multi window rotor bearings, S4 rotors, 3mm seals, turbo port, linished EC with internal mods, lightened flywheel, S6 manifold and throttle body, HPC extreme coated exhaust manifold, turbo exhaust housing, dump pipe, Turbonetics T66 and a methanol enrichment system (main fuel system is pump gas). I expect to see over 500RWHP on about 25PSI once we turn up the boost

 

Thanks Yogi, that sounds sweet !

P.S. Hats off for your honesty about the dyno figure too, I admire that.

Hey can you share with me what ignition timing you run at max power (I just found mine was realy retarded !)

 

I will have a look tonight and let you know I think I read your running 12 degrees at 25 PSI ???

 

Yeah, that is what I normally run all the time, but I had a recent pulley change to fix front seal used a different crank pulley.

Any way this was just before I went and did my dyno run, all went good I put down awsome power, but upon checking my timing last night I realized that the timing was severly retarded. Usually it is a dead give away on a car not running wasted leading spark cause the turbo will glow red at idle ! But mine did not do this cause of my ECU (wasted spark on leading) Long story, but that is it in a nut shell. I always ran this 12 deg BTDC, but for my dyno run I was at more like 0 deg or TDC ! Lucky it was not the other way and 12 deg over advanced. Oh that will teach me to not check the crank pulley close enough

 

HME seals are great. I have had 2 engines let go in a major way and in both instances the HME apex seals were only damaged by other bits going through the engine.

If your engines let go, especially 5 of them, I would be looking at tuning or the tuner.

 

Rice .................. fired up the laptop last night to have a look at the maps and my tuner has password locked my config's I will have a talk to him and let you know .................

 

I have my own horror story with regards to Hurley but to be fair I wont post pics or story till they give up some answers.

 

i am happy with the ianettis..an arm and a leg yes..but with all the detonation I got from xs engineerings **** poor tuning job I was very glad to have that little bit of leeway that the ceramics provide....granted had they blown Id be sitting on a driveway ornament...I am glad I made the decision to go with the ceramics.

I have the 3mm one piece set.


jason

 

Interesting thread. Does anyone have any experience with the Hurley racing side and corner seals?

 

Yeah goodfellaFD3S. I have just used a full set of Hurleys in my 2 Gen Engine,side, corner and apex. and after 1700 Kms trying to run it in Its out again and after pulling it down were were gobsmaked at what we found.
Once i hear back from Hurley I will post the pics but for the meanwhile the only thing I would use are the apex seal. Here's a small idea. This rotor shows the blow bye nearly half way up the seal.

 

Yeah goodfellaFD3S. I have just used a full set of Hurleys in my 2 Gen Engine,side, corner and apex. and after 1700 Kms trying to run it in Its out again and after pulling it down were were gobsmaked at what we found.
Once i hear back from Hurley I will post the pics but for the meanwhile the only thing I would use are the apex seal. Here's a small idea. This rotor shows the blow bye nearly half way up the seal.

 

FYI This may have changed as I didn't receive any X-rays with the set of Ianetti seals I recently purchased.

 

I've been using 3mm Hurley Racing Seals in my t78 boosted motor for about 10-11k miles. I'm very happy with them so far.

I'd have to guess it's in your tuning. Seems like the blame always gets pinned on the seals. lol

 

When I got my motor they said the hurley seal if broken would not cause damage. Is this true? I have been running my motor at 11 psi for 4 months, with the wide band showing 11.6 to 11.8. the motor lasted 4000 miles. I did show low vaccum but Im not sure if that says anything. Can these seals cause damage?

 

Don't get them,they suck.

 

Nope. I've blown 5 (!) of the Hurleys before, and my rotors, housings, and turbos were 100% fine. That's the advantage of them. The drawback is that they are soft and more fragile than stock. I recently received an email from Dave Barninger at KD Rotary and he told me that if you are planning on running more than 12 psi stay away from the hurleys. Otherwise they are fine.

hope this helps--

 

The Owner of BNR supercars seems to think Hurleys are junk too!

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=138104

 

JUNK JUNK JUNK!!!!

I have never been so disapointed in the durability of the 2mm's. I built 6 engines with them and I will not build anymore with those sorry seals. How can you offer a product that won't take more than stock boost levels???? I don't understand. Eamon himself told me that they would work well in a high HP allplication. BULL CRAP!!! I wonder what his opinion of high HP is??? 200 hp??? I mean jeeez!

4 of 6 engines have low compression. I am now doing engines with OEM 2mm and 3mm seals and springs. NOTHING BETTER FOR THE PRICE!

I feel for KD b/c I heard they did 20 something engines and all of em failed but maybe 1 or 2 that were stock cars... That HAS to tell everyone something about Hurleys.

I made the mistake of putting them in my t2 that is going to spit em out when Steve Kan comes around christmas time!!!! I am looking forward to pulling the enigne.

I would like a payment from hurley for all the seals I bought from them, payment for customers headache for labor, payment for broken parts, and payment for new rebuild kits for all the engines along with OEM apex seals.

I am just frustrated with this crap b/c I warranty this bull ****. Excuse my language.

Bryan
www.bnrsupercars.com

 

After 1600kms trying to get this motor to bed in I bit the bullet and pulled it down. After inspecting the ports and finding oil in the rear housing I knew something was wrong.
Low and behold the Hurley Side seals had eatin the rear plate which admittingly is faced.
The front plates were virgin and had about a thou groove.
The rear was almost a right off.

Check it out.

This is from the Hurley side seals
The Hurley corner seals hadnt left any wear strangly.

 

And

 

This shot shows a stock Mazda side seal in the background versus the Hurley in front. There not even straight or flat. You would need to run them on a belt sander before installing the buggers,