How does my exhaust porting job look?
Followed the RB template for the street port. Replaced the bevel (chamfer) best that I could. How does it look?
I didn't change the sides to much but opened it up on the bottom to match the exhaust sleeve. I also polished the exhaust sleeve.
Thoughts?
Already had one comment that says I need to increase the amount of chamfer ....
This is my first time...so just want to make sure i didn't F up new housings.


James
I didn't change the sides to much but opened it up on the bottom to match the exhaust sleeve. I also polished the exhaust sleeve.
Thoughts?
Already had one comment that says I need to increase the amount of chamfer ....
This is my first time...so just want to make sure i didn't F up new housings.


James
Just FYI
The F1 engine teams would now mount the 'head' and the exhaust header/manifold on a machine that passes a high grit plastic paste backwards and forwards through the port and pipework to ensure a perfect/seemless fit.
If you've got a few $10Ks around..................
The F1 engine teams would now mount the 'head' and the exhaust header/manifold on a machine that passes a high grit plastic paste backwards and forwards through the port and pipework to ensure a perfect/seemless fit.
If you've got a few $10Ks around..................
Mate, it needs to go bigger everywhere, up/down to the sides, when you look at it from out side you should see not rotor housing edges just sleeve.
I'll take some pics of ones I just complete for a customer.
I'll take some pics of ones I just complete for a customer.
i'm building a large streetported fd, equipped with a hks t51r turbo
plan on running 25 psi. These are my exhuast ports.
The one on the right is a large exhaust port by Rmagic Japanese tuner that I took out of a car I rebuilt last year, which had to4r turbo and mild street port. The one on the left is mine for a comparison.
rgds
plan on running 25 psi. These are my exhuast ports.
The one on the right is a large exhaust port by Rmagic Japanese tuner that I took out of a car I rebuilt last year, which had to4r turbo and mild street port. The one on the left is mine for a comparison.
rgds
Last edited by BNA_ELLIS; Apr 18, 2005 at 03:59 PM.
Originally Posted by BNA_ELLIS
i'm building a large streetported fd, equipped with a hks t51r turbo
plan on running 25 psi. These are my exhuast ports.
The one on the right is a large exhaust port by Rmagic Japanese tuner that I took out of a car I rebuilt last year, which had to4r turbo and mild street port. The one on the left is mine for a comparison.
rgds
plan on running 25 psi. These are my exhuast ports.
The one on the right is a large exhaust port by Rmagic Japanese tuner that I took out of a car I rebuilt last year, which had to4r turbo and mild street port. The one on the left is mine for a comparison.
rgds
ahhh now thats what an exhaust port should look like(the one on the left)... nice!
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Originally Posted by ronbros3
YOU had better weld up and polish the holes in the sleeve, come on guys, do it right.
Originally Posted by ronbros3
YOU had better weld up and polish the holes in the sleeve, come on guys, do it right.
chuck
Originally Posted by Shamrock.James
could you use that metal putty **** on it? , would make it a LOT easier
If you can find a putty that will take 1800F
Not sure JB weld can live up to that. And worst case is that it comes out and hurts your turbine wheel
James
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Minden, NV
Originally Posted by yelwoci
Just FYI
The F1 engine teams would now mount the 'head' and the exhaust header/manifold on a machine that passes a high grit plastic paste backwards and forwards through the port and pipework to ensure a perfect/seemless fit.
If you've got a few $10Ks around..................
The F1 engine teams would now mount the 'head' and the exhaust header/manifold on a machine that passes a high grit plastic paste backwards and forwards through the port and pipework to ensure a perfect/seemless fit.
If you've got a few $10Ks around..................
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Originally Posted by Wankel7
Hum, okie.... weld up the holes?
So, you could remove the sleeve weld them up? The reinsert?
James
So, you could remove the sleeve weld them up? The reinsert?
James
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Originally Posted by Dom_C
why do you fill the holes?
Makes it tough to pass emissions testing if you weld them shut.
Originally Posted by RICE RACING
Mate, it needs to go bigger everywhere, up/down to the sides, when you look at it from out side you should see not rotor housing edges just sleeve.
I'll take some pics of ones I just complete for a customer.
I'll take some pics of ones I just complete for a customer.
how many of you guys use a Dremel to cut your exhausts? i'm in the process of doing mine and my the bits that i have don't seem to be going through the sleeve as easily as i figured it should.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
I might be porting mine tommorow, the shop that did it last year barely touched the exhaust ports. It looks like they just glazed over them with a dremal. Not impressed at all.
Is a dremal good enough to do the job right?
Is a dremal good enough to do the job right?
Originally Posted by yelwoci
Just FYI
The F1 engine teams would now mount the 'head' and the exhaust header/manifold on a machine that passes a high grit plastic paste backwards and forwards through the port and pipework to ensure a perfect/seemless fit.
If you've got a few $10Ks around..................
The F1 engine teams would now mount the 'head' and the exhaust header/manifold on a machine that passes a high grit plastic paste backwards and forwards through the port and pipework to ensure a perfect/seemless fit.
If you've got a few $10Ks around..................
You want the air to flow in only *one* direction, there is no gain to allowing air flow backwards! The "step" does not hamper forward flow to any significant degree while it puts the hurt on reverse flow.





