Ok, so this is my first attempt at porting my housings. I'll be doing the intermediate and exhaust ports tomorrow. Just thought I would see what you guys think about my technique.

All comments are appreciated. If there is something I did wrong or something I can do better, please let me know.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

 

were those working/usable irons before?

 

Did you try starting out with some kind of template, porting videos? I see that you widened the ports in the irons but the original casting is in the actual port. If your going to port do a complete job. Port the ENITRE thing to make a difference.

Also did you touch the side the oil control rings slide along?

 

Ummmm........needs work?.....?

 

Oh shiiit son.....

 

Yes. Do you not think they are anymore? Why not?

I used the Pineapple Racing Medium Template and it's right on with the outline.

If it's not usuable anymore, why is that?

 

So I should get down inside the port? I didn't really do anything besides the outline.

As far as the inside where the oil control ring slides, I did barely touch that side to get to the outline of the template but it's more on the order of polishing than removing any serious material.

 

This should help. I just took these pictures of the irons with the template on top. I did not port with the template on there, I've just put it on there to show that I'm within the lines.

 

There is no real purpose in just opening up the port on the actual face of the iron. Your still going to have the same air delivery if you didnt touch the actual inside part of the port and the openings on the outside of the irons. Clean up the inside of the port and open up them up on the outside to.

 

really needs alot more smoothing ... You have to modify the whole port as they mentioned. By that we mean going to about the inlet on the engine. You have to create a really smoothe curve for the air to travel through without disruption.

 

Yeah I didn't want to get down into it without getting some feedback first. I'm just trying to go slow and get as much info as possible.

Do you guys have any pictures of what you're suggesting? I don't want to get into the water jacket or anything like that. What are my limits for porting the outside of the intake port (where the lim connects)?

 

Though I think his "porting" needs A LOT of work, your statment is false my man. Using that template changes intake port timing, even if the "flow" isn't optimal. He WILL see a "performance" gain.

-J

 

I understand that but I dont see the gain being enough to see a noticeable difference.

 

Could you elaborate on where I might make the most progress toward having a good port? I realize that nobody has said I have done a good job and I just would like to know what a good job looks like. I've looked for weeks for pictures and I only get pictures of hacked jobs.

What is the most glaring mistake that you guys see? How could I do better?

 

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/EnginePo...ng/12.jpg.html

 

You really need to get the Mazdatrix Porting video. It's $40. I bought it at Sevenstock last year even though I've been porting rotaries for over a decade. It's great info. It isn't a completely step by step on many little subtle nuances but it's good enough and shows you the tools needed for the job. If your video budget is higher, the DIY-13B video would be very nice to show you the complete in's and out's of engine rebuilding. At the very least also pick up a rebuild video from Atkins Rotary.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/videos.htm

 

Muchos Gracias!! That's just what I was looking for!

Do you think that the oil control ring is going to have a problem with the port that I did?


Thanks dude. I ordered the porting video. I've already got a rebuild video from Rotary Aviation.

 

Honestly the one (front) iron looks to be into the control ring path slightly, so this engine may smoke a bit and eat a little oil.

On FD irons, the oil control ring edge of the port is so close to the line from stock, there's usually not much to gain going in any more on a minor/medium street port. On an FC iron, there's a little more meat to get into before you're at the line however.

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking too. It's just ever so slightly in the path and I was trying to figure out how that would affect things. It shouldn't even get past half the width of the ring though.

I'm not exactly sure how those things seal. I thought that they sealed the oil from the e-shaft from getting into the intake. Wouldn't the width of the ring have to breach the intake port to lose any oil or am I missing something?

Also, why is there an inner and outer control ring?

 

Saying things like this is NOT understanding... Think about it this way, if you left the runner and bowl un ported and could make the port opening SMALLER would it still have "the same air delivery"? Because if what you're saying was true....than what I just said would have to be as well and IT IS NOT.

-J

 

I think what he's referring to is the duration that the port is open will be longer and therefore will allow more air into the combustion chamber.

 

REread post #10.....because that is NOT what he is saying.

 

I know there's some scuffing in the corners. I don't have a good polishing bit that can fit in there. I'm open to ideas.

 

You can port within up to 50% of the outer control ring path without resulting in any visible smoking. The "don't touch the oil control ring path" is a well-circulated myth. Myself and many other engine builders have done so to find some flow gains without any negative results, even at high rpms with 140+psi of oil pressure.

However, there are sections of the oil ring path that will never open. To make any real use of porting in that direction, you really need to mock up a rotor, iron, housing assembly to a flowbench and experiment with scrap irons.