I want to know the difference between the two cars. The 1990 fc and the later fd. I don't want to knock any of the cars I just would like to know what Madza did differently when they spent millions on designing the fd. Apart from the body!

Please I would only like to know like for like in stock form.

Things like.

- Engine
- Chassis
- Handling
- Weight
- Braking

Any other stuff

I know if you spend money it will uprate parts on any car. But are people just buying the fd because of the looks, You see my point? I would like to know where that money would need to be spent to get both cars on par, fc to fd or fd to fc.



Thanks

 

What do you want to do Tune or Keep Stock?

The Gen 3 is allways going to be better in stock form but power wise the they are going to be very simalar tuned, u still need all the same bits.

If your going to Mod the cars it would make more sence to buy a Cheeper FC and spend the extra money Moding it (remember if you are not into the looks there aint that much diffrence for the Extra cash)

If you want both you just have to fork up the extra inital money and u may gain a bit in handling who knows?

Anyone else have any views on this subject?

 

The FD has a better engine, which is more like an upgraded Series 5 13BT. Had better intake. Had twin sequential superchargers. Better LSD, better handling and suspension.
Its lighter than the 13BT by a little bit.
Very good car.
The engine is also capable of more power without strengthening the engine
Bigger IC also

 

Node what is the internal diffrences between the two? and in which way is it better?

Do u know what boost they both run std?

Lighter in the Us but in the Uk Not what do you have the two cars weight?
I have the R1 at 1260 R2 1280 then the T2 (in the Uk) 1190 have a good look at this site Http://www.rx7uknet.dircon.co.uk/binrx7/fc3s_5.html Ok.

What Model Rx do u Drive?

 

http://www.mindspring.com/~pko/13BTvs13BREW.html
Erm I think FD's run a pattern of 8-10-8 (thats with teh sequentials, so I have no idea what max stock psi is)
I forget exact for T2's

 

Series 4 T2: 2845lb
Series 5 T2: 3003lb
Series 6 FD: 2694lb
I got the FD# from supercars.net and the T2#'s from http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/page1.html

I don't have one yet. I want a Turbo II (or any FC actually)

 

Lets get one thing right what is the first ting u do to a Gen 3 when u tune them? Thats get rid of the Twin Turbos.

I have done lots of reserch into the two engines if they are so diffrent how come i can fit the rotor and housing of a Fd to my FC?

The diffrence in power is down to A. Intake (that is diffrent as mazda made a **** up and put the intercooler on the top of the engine) B.Timing Triger,C.extra tention bolt and of cause ECU and the Twins.

The Boost is 10psi roughly on a STD R1 and its about 6 on a T2.

 

Wow is that what a US T2 weighs. I own a 1990 T2 Coupe I do know a bit about then such as where the Curb weight sticker is on it.

 

The FC like the SA22C was a consecutive winner in the GTU series each year. The FD never did that.

FC's will typically go 150,000 miles. FD's only dream of it.

FC's can fit more in the hatch than the FD can. FC's actually have a better wind-drag(coefficient) ratio than the FD.

FD's are for pimping. FC's are more for daily driving.

FD's overheat. FC's usually don't. FD parts are a shitload of money. FC's are a little bit better.

 

Have a Good laf MRRX. I will bring you up to speed when i see you.



LOL Top one mate u tell him.

 

I agree with infini... All thats true but i do like the looks of both. FD are sicker looking thou. If i had 20grand that i absolutly didnt need i would buy one but i would never finance one. The 2nd gen turbo at 10 psi is just as fast as a stock third gen and the engine internally is pretty much the same as the 3rd. Like rotors and seals. As far as the series 5 go. thier was a problem with to small of an intercooler on the 3rd gens as well as other safety items that were scimped on. I think the interior was a little cheaper quality on the 3rd gens to save weight.

Basically the 3rd gen seems like a money pit. Im glad i have my n/a.

 

Is that it! No More RELPYS???

 

Think stock boost pattern was 10-8-10.

 

FD's from the factory have issues that need to be addressed another thing is that most previous owners had no idea what they were and screwed up the cars even more..... FC's had the same problems but were not nearly as complicated with like 100 vacuum hoses for the turbo control system. if you get an FD with single turbo kit, ems, upgraded radiator, full exhaust, intercooler kit, boost controller. you can make alot of reliable power 350-400rwhp at moderate boost. a big reliability issue is the twin turbos on FD's most have boost problems and if you get the boost problems worked out and have a full exhuast you will get alot of creep due to the small wastegate.... most cars spike to only 14psi. only reason for a FD to be unreliable is bad tuning or somebody that doesn't know what they are doing

 

dont you mean turbochargers

 

The FC's will win. There are more of them. That's where I'm puttin' my money.

 

ok I like both I wont put either one down. here is how it goes

If you are a baller buy a fd and first thing you do is get a stand alone engine management, and a single turbo and up the fuel system.

if your on a budget get a fc and do the same thing and it will make the same HP for cheeper.

small hp veriation will apply due to differences in series 4 and 5.

 

As for weight, there isn't as much difference as the common 'net wisdom will lead you to believe. My 88 T2 weighed 2820 lbs and my 93 Base weighed 2780 lbs on the same scale, both in close to stock form with 3/8 tank of gas.

The FD has double wishbone suspension in front, while the FC has Mac struts in front. The rear suspensions are harder to classify, but the FD has the advantage there, too, with more flexibility in alignment and better camber control. The FD has a Torsen diff, where FCs had viscous LSDs for the most part (I think you could get an FC model with a Torsen, though).

The FD comes with bigger, lighter wheels and tires, and it is easier to fit even larger ones on the car. I think the FD has higher torsional rigidity as well, but I don't remember the exact increase.

Stock versus stock, the FD has better performance in every category that I can think of. But the FCs are larger inside, cost less to buy and modify, and are more reliable.

-Max

 

i love fds dont get me wrong. but my wallet says otherwise. hah i think u can make a fc go as fast as a stock fc. for cheaper than buyin the fd outright

 

Max said it the best so far. I bought both of my cars new, so I haven't had the head and wallet aches you see here all the time. The FD is by far the better sports car. If your interest is drag racing the FC is cheaper, but why not just get a pony car for that.

 

I like the FC alot but you know,.... the FD looks like a mini Dodge Viper. Kinda cool lookin!

 

Guessing a larger wastegate would solve this problem?

 

its an internal wastegate hence the problem

 

And that means? BTW, I don't know anything about turbos....

 

this is an external wastegate. you can change them and adjust them etc. notice it bolts to the outside of the manifold.


internal wastegates are built into the exhaust manifold. right now i can't find a picture but that valve is inside the manifold and uses an external actuator to open and close the wastegate. you can tell which way works better