premixing doesnt suck because it works poorly... it sucks because its a PITA, and because you might forget once, then boom.

glazedham, i think it was a b2000, not really sure...it was def one of those little mazda trucks, but it was in so bad shape i couldnt tell the model... i think mazda makes like 2 or 3 different little PU's.

 

Good job !

Hugues-

 

UPDATE, for anyone interested, i have run through a gallon or so of 2cycle now, so i thought i'd post up. Everything is working great. my car now uses no oil whatsoever from the crankcase, and cold starts are easier with the 5/50. Engine is running great with no signs of internal wear and tear, although im not about to take it apart and look..

I have had no other issues with this. My safety light works great, warns me when i still have a few hundered miles worth of oil left.

So...my 2 month report is: all systems go!

pat

 

Good work, Pat. Good ingenuity.

B

 

Brilliant write-up Pat! I have seen the PCV Technologies adapter before and thought it was a great idea, but for $88 I'd rather just premix. Your solution looks simple and best of all cheap!
-John

 

cheap is my middle name

 

Oh, how I can relate to that....

B

 

well even though no one hgas posted here in a month i'll post and say i like the idea alot, i'd often though about something of the sort but just never thought of how to do it, patman i said it would be nice to have a guage and you didn't even tell me you have a warning light, thats awesome. Anyway greast writeup looks like another thing to ad to my to-do list for the spring

 

glad ya like it, dude

 

i wish i could have done this instead of premix but the reason i am premixing is because while swapping UIM/LIM i broke the oil lines...

 

Instead of drilling a hole between the oil passages couldn't you just plug them?

 

yeah, you could, but then you have a high pressure oil passage all the way from the pump through the front iron, front cover, and to the MOP, plus you have to seal off 90 psi oil. bridging them lets the oil bleed right through like it is supposed to with the MOP stock, so there isnt much pressure.

pat

 

UPDATE...it seems that the TCW3 has seal swellers or somethign in it, and softens the cheap rubber vacuum hose i used to run it from the tank to MOP.

for this reason i am switching to -4AN braided stainless as soon as get the right fitting.

just thought i'd let you guys know

pat

 

I found that simply running a length of neoprene (ie: impervious to oil) fuel hose from the reservior to the omp solved this problem (I'm running the PCV Technologies adapter in my 12A). Also, the 2-cycle oil was eating away at my plastic washer-fluid reservior (similar to your set-up) after only a couple of months, so I switched to a power steering fluid reservior instead.

This means I don't have a low-oil level warning system, but since I top up the reservior at each gas fill-up it's not an issue. Besides, another benefit of 2-cycle oil is that it penetrates the pores of the metal way better than 4-cycle oil does, protecting the surfaces in the event of lost oil delivery to the intakes or forgetful owners. One guy on the rotaryaviation site forgot to add premix to the tanks of his airplane and flew about 800 miles over about 4-1/2 hours before he realized his mistake at the next fill-up. No apparent harm was done to the engine--- no overheating, no seizing and a borescope turned up no visible damage inside.

 

I have a plastic coolant reservoir for my 2 stroke oil. It has been there for a few years now and hasn't gotten eaten up by the oil. Strange how yours did. I wonder what the difference is?

 

Hard to say. The first thing I noticed was that the container was taking on a greenish tinge as it absorbed the oil. Then the filler cap became so loose that oil would slop out of it during cornering even though the cap was still in place. (BTW, this was formerly a washer fluid reservior from an '82 1st gen). It then began seeping at the bottom from an invisible source. I've seen plastic containers exposed to oil become brittle and crack because of it, so rather than wait for that to happen I simply switched to the power steering fluid reservior instead.

 

Hello Everyone,

We are offering FREE OMP 2-stroke block off plates (S4 and eariler only) for free to the first 25 people who PM me. All you have to pay is the price of postage (less than $1) and we will send you the plate.

We strongly believe in the benefits of the 2-stroke conversion and want to help make this a popular conversion.

 

Now with this installed we would have to always pre-mix our gas or put the OMP in a self-made 2-stroke reservoir, correct? Why won't it work in the s5?

 

Omps in the S5 and newer are electric and will go into limp mode if oil flow is blocked or if the omp is removed and replaced with a blockoff plate. But you still have the option of installing an adapter and feeding 2-stroke oil via a seperate reservior. This would allow the stock metering pump to still be used to supply oil. The limp mode function would not trip because since the metering pump is still supplying oil it is fooled into believing the system is unmodified, ie: it can't tell the difference between the two oil sources.

 

The plates we are offering are to block of the oil supply from the front cover and allow you feed 2-stroke oil directly to the metering pump, so they can be used on the S5 and later. For this offer we are just giving away the S4 and eariler plates.

The intent is not to pre mix but to supply a second oil feed to the OMP as descrided in this thread.

 

Almost all gone, any more takers??

 

With the stock setup how much pressure is the oil under as it enters into the OMP?

Stephen

 

very little, almost no pressure at all

 

^^^ sort of.

the feed for the MOP is a high pressure oil passage, which is at engine oil pressure (60 psi or so)

However, the pickup chamber for the MOP is vented directly into the front cover, so all the pressure just vents through there, and the oil that is drawn into the pump is pretty much static.

 

By the way, another Important change to my original method:

as discussed earlier in the thread a little bit, apparently 2 stroke oil eats plastic, and my tank is now blueish and cracking.

The way i am fixing this is by making a custom aluminum tank, and installing an oil level sensor from a spare stock oil pan. no big deal for me since i work at a machine shop, but maybe hard for some of you other guys, if so sorry. On a side note, i might be willing to produce a few of them once i design one if there is some interest.

pat