sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

Two cycle injector oil is used in cold climates by snowmobiles. Still it may be made different than regular injector type 2 cycle oil. I have been out of that loop to long to know anymore. I do know that the Polais 4 wheelers two stroke modles at least are run in the cold if the snow is light or on some smooth trails during winter months. If your from the north pipe in. I guess when it gets a little cold down here in NC I will take a look at the oil in my botttle to see how thick it is. My car seems to love it so far!

Terry7

micah

I guess thats a good point, I didn't really think about that. But, how does our OMP/MOP differ from that of a snomobile/4-wheeler/SeaDoo? Thats what I'm wondering.

sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

Not much if any, what could change? All pump oil. The difference is ours is electronically controlled according to the whims of the ecu. I haven't heard any horror stories due to different oil used by the pump. Oils have different properties, two cycle oil does this job better because it was developed to do it.

patman

iTrader: (3)

actually, our MOP is EXACTLY the same as the pumps on many 2 stroke motorcycles. look on the pump, it is made by mikuni, a company which primarily makes motorcycle parts. i have seen pumps on various bikes that are identical to ours.

micah

That identical eh?

Also, why can't we mount our existing electric ones to the bottom of a 2-stroke oil reservoir? All you'd need is custom OMP hard lines... which there's a nice writeup for.

sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

the pump is mechanically driven and the oil is electronically metered by the ecu according to all monitored sensors.

Terry7

Malefoda

Up this thread, wanna ask 3 things:
the S4 MOP does what when throttle is off, I've check and see the link between the MOP and the throttle works only when the throttle is about said 30% or so. It's a constant duty before 30% TP and proportional duty with TP after?
Second question, what do you think of such type of tank:

It's 2Stk oil tank, have a switch for low level and my be easy to fit in a corner... but they sell it too much!...
It's for a Beta RR50 bike.
Third one, how to do the mod, as some things are not so clear for me now.
Have to just block the oil from the engine side by having a simple plate between the MOP and block, only holes being the cam driving the MOP and the 2 holes for mounting screws?
A hole for fitting a feed pinping and there we go? I've read things about holes or such.... where and what for?
Thanks guys!

sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I'm not familiar with the S4 engine. The tank looks like a good one, but the feed line looks small. I can't say if it would supply enough oil, but it should, the engine doesn't use that much oil under normal operation. At full throttle it uses the most. (Wish I had access to one like that when I did mine). Be careful with the blocking plate. On an FD the engine oil flows through the cover into a small pump resevior and back out into the pan by way of a small return hole. I drilled a hole to connect this pathway. Oil pressure could be effected if this is not considered. I think the hole your refering too is for the oil supply into the pump? Or the one I just explained in the cover?

Terry

Malefoda

Well, maybe the one of the return line. There's no such thing on the S4 oil system drawing from Mazda's manual, but... there's 2 holes on the engine side? Maybe one for lubricate the shaft? Both sides? I think things'll get clearer to my mind when I'll remove this... or maybe let go all this and go for premix! Still the lubrication-stop-when-injectors-are-off (throttle closed) concer wich annoy me so much...

forced inducted fd dude

damn i like this idea. hows everyones set-up holding up?

sevensheaven

iTrader: (1)

Mine is working well since I shortened the tank due to rubbing problems. There is another interesting thing I have noticed. My PFS catback at the tail pipe has rust developing on the inside preferated metal inside the tip. My guess is there isn't as much oily soot being laid down anymore and it look like @ss now. I will be wire brushing and spraying it with flat black hi temp paint this weekend. This should speak for its self, I am very happy with the results so far. I just wonder how long the MOP hose is going to last being as close to the turbos as it is. I wish I would have put a high temp sleave over it now. O'well live and learn. I will be taking a close look from the bottom the next time I get the car up in the air and will be trying to give it some extra protection. I will post what I find. The car has been driven 2000 miles since the mod.

Terry7

Terry7

patman

iTrader: (3)

mine has been taken out since i switched to 20B, but will be reinstalled when I put the engine back in this weekend. I'll let you guys know how it works with the 3 rotor

cordlina

I would like to purchase on if it is good for the 86 NA. cordlina@bellsouth.net

patman

iTrader: (3)

well since someone dug this back up i should mention that I have fitted my old system to the 20B, and it has been running well now for a while. I can take pics of the linkage and etc if anyone needs them.

pat

geboy

Yes please!!!!!

nkeehn

Has anyone ever tried pressurizing the system? I mean like 2psi, not 15. I'm wondering if people have had starvation problems when cornering. It seems to me that the hard cornering would offset some of the gravity feed and a small amount of pressure would help. My setup has a turbo so I was thinking about tapping into that... Is this a crackpot idea?

Marcel Burkett

Please do ! i have mine set up , but I havn't completly figured out how I am going to get the OMP's arm to move with my Tb linkage . I was thinking of rigging up another cable , but I havnt gotten there yet.

patman

iTrader: (3)

****, i forgot all about it. the car is parked for the winter at my dad's place, but i will take pics next week when i go visit it

patman

iTrader: (3)

PICS!

sorry about the quality, cell phone was all i had with me. Also note the car has been sitting for a month since it is winter here, so its kinda nasty....


Heres what I did for the throttle end of the linkage. Just removed the arm from a s4 TB and welded it to the end of the 20B throttle shaft:




It was hard to get good pics of the linkage...it is just a piece of hot rolled 1018 rod i got at work, and bent it to the right shape:





I couldnt get any pics of the very bottom where it hits the MOP, but that end was pretty simple...

Heres the whole shebang, just for kicks:



pat

Marcel Burkett

Thanks for the pics , I will have to improvise a bit more , since I dont use the stock intake setup anymore , I use a Holley atyled throttle body . I will go with my first idea , which is a cable set up , I'll put up pics whan I get it together.

SPEED_NYC

iTrader: (3)

ive never really noticed this thread before. i have the original ra adapter on my fd for 4 years now with a moroso catch can that im using for a 2 stroke resivior. ive never had a problem with the kit and love it. as for linkage i bought a $4 bicycle brake cable and made brackets to hold the cable to my tb. it has warked flawlessly for years and is invisible to most people. definately beffer than premix on a street driven car. no fouling plugs with excessive oil at idle ect.

i can get some pics up soon if anybody is intrested. im using a s4 T2 omp btw..

calculon

iTrader: (29)

Lets see the pics SPEED.

Fsmotorsport

Hi, I,m currently building a brand new street ported engine for my FD.
I am likeing the idea of this 2 stroke oil injection system with the MOP as I can see the benefits for the engine regarding wear and less carbon etc.
One question I have is does anyone know if 2 stroke oil is safe for the oil control O rings and water jacket O rings?
Thanks
Chris

patman

iTrader: (3)

people have been using it for years and years, ive never heard of a related failure

I cant think of any reason it would be a problem anyway

bumpstart

available soon
handmade to order low volume only, with TPS only
or TPS/ rev correction
and under development MAP correction and a few extra features