Coolant seal repair
#1
Old [Sch|F]ool
Thread Starter
Coolant seal repair
So, about 6,000 miles after putting my engine together, it started fountaining coolant. It would be okay cruising down the road, but when cold it would instantly pressurize the cooling system, and it would run on one rotor for a while as well.
http://www.solv-tec.com/pg/index.html
No coolant flush hokey-pokey required like other block weld products, it is antifreeze compatible. Just pour it in and go. My engine took about 150 miles of drive/add/drive/add before it sealed up, which is fine by me since I don't have the time to go through it again.
http://www.solv-tec.com/pg/index.html
No coolant flush hokey-pokey required like other block weld products, it is antifreeze compatible. Just pour it in and go. My engine took about 150 miles of drive/add/drive/add before it sealed up, which is fine by me since I don't have the time to go through it again.
#2
burn to burn
iTrader: (3)
No experience with product, but out of curiosity do have a few question as to nature of the coolant leak. What kind of coolant seals were your running and what are you assuming is the cause of the leak? broken water jacket? or if experimental seals were used could the seal just have not done its job? Either way let us know how it holds up in the long term.
#4
Old [Sch|F]ool
Thread Starter
Yep. And further testing shows that the K-Seal doesn't hold up to running at full throttle with coolant temps around 220deg and oil temps at 200deg in the pan...
I am fairly sure that I cracked a land out. I've only had trouble with the electrical wire seals once before, and it took MANY more miles for it to happen, and it only leaked when the engine was cold.
I'm not terribly concerned, as I have bigger fish to fry with the car than a mere engine rebuild.
I am fairly sure that I cracked a land out. I've only had trouble with the electrical wire seals once before, and it took MANY more miles for it to happen, and it only leaked when the engine was cold.
I'm not terribly concerned, as I have bigger fish to fry with the car than a mere engine rebuild.
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
Thread Starter
I am not entirely convinced that any seal at all is needed for the outer, if you use a decent sealant. I put one there anyway just for completeness's sake.
Futher report: Not fountaining again. The transmission and diff noises are getting uglier and uglier though I am only driving it until I get my VW unloaded, as it is chock full of 200 Turbo parts and I don't quite have anywhere to put them yet.
Futher report: Not fountaining again. The transmission and diff noises are getting uglier and uglier though I am only driving it until I get my VW unloaded, as it is chock full of 200 Turbo parts and I don't quite have anywhere to put them yet.
#7
Lives on the Forum
peejay,
You probably are already aware of this, but I've had great success with Alumaseal ($4.00). I've got nearly 20k miles on my motor, which was draining the coolant out the exhaust.
The only question is, will it work when the flow is going the other direction (combustion gasses into the coolant system, as opposed to coolant going out the exhaust)? It might be worth a shot though.
Good luck.
.
You probably are already aware of this, but I've had great success with Alumaseal ($4.00). I've got nearly 20k miles on my motor, which was draining the coolant out the exhaust.
The only question is, will it work when the flow is going the other direction (combustion gasses into the coolant system, as opposed to coolant going out the exhaust)? It might be worth a shot though.
Good luck.
.
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#8
Replace your reservoir cap, if it still persists, check your hoses for any (steam like) fine leaks. There may be a fine hair line crack in your reservoir tank that you cannot see. It usually happens near were the hose is connect to the nozzle. You may have to sniff around and try to find where it has the strongest smell of coolant. Also, if your water pump and it's seal is failing, it will leak there.
Tip: If you're driving and your car is overheating immediately turn your heater on full with max fan. It will help to cool it until you can pull over. Please do not run for long or you may blow your head gasket, then it will be a major repair. (At least $1500)
If you have to drive it, and can't have it towed, let it cool down to a very low temperature before refilling with fluid. When it starts to rise above normal temp, immediately pull over and let it cool again. Only if you have to but not recommended to stress your engine too often.
Tip: If you're driving and your car is overheating immediately turn your heater on full with max fan. It will help to cool it until you can pull over. Please do not run for long or you may blow your head gasket, then it will be a major repair. (At least $1500)
If you have to drive it, and can't have it towed, let it cool down to a very low temperature before refilling with fluid. When it starts to rise above normal temp, immediately pull over and let it cool again. Only if you have to but not recommended to stress your engine too often.
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (2)
What's this head gasket thing that cost 1500$????
Replace your reservoir cap, if it still persists, check your hoses for any (steam like) fine leaks. There may be a fine hair line crack in your reservoir tank that you cannot see. It usually happens near were the hose is connect to the nozzle. You may have to sniff around and try to find where it has the strongest smell of coolant. Also, if your water pump and it's seal is failing, it will leak there.
Tip: If you're driving and your car is overheating immediately turn your heater on full with max fan. It will help to cool it until you can pull over. Please do not run for long or you may blow your head gasket, then it will be a major repair. (At least $1500)
If you have to drive it, and can't have it towed, let it cool down to a very low temperature before refilling with fluid. When it starts to rise above normal temp, immediately pull over and let it cool again. Only if you have to but not recommended to stress your engine too often.
Tip: If you're driving and your car is overheating immediately turn your heater on full with max fan. It will help to cool it until you can pull over. Please do not run for long or you may blow your head gasket, then it will be a major repair. (At least $1500)
If you have to drive it, and can't have it towed, let it cool down to a very low temperature before refilling with fluid. When it starts to rise above normal temp, immediately pull over and let it cool again. Only if you have to but not recommended to stress your engine too often.
#13
My job is to blow **** up
iTrader: (8)
Replace your reservoir cap, if it still persists, check your hoses for any (steam like) fine leaks. There may be a fine hair line crack in your reservoir tank that you cannot see. It usually happens near were the hose is connect to the nozzle. You may have to sniff around and try to find where it has the strongest smell of coolant. Also, if your water pump and it's seal is failing, it will leak there.
Tip: If you're driving and your car is overheating immediately turn your heater on full with max fan. It will help to cool it until you can pull over. Please do not run for long or you may blow your head gasket, then it will be a major repair. (At least $1500)
If you have to drive it, and can't have it towed, let it cool down to a very low temperature before refilling with fluid. When it starts to rise above normal temp, immediately pull over and let it cool again. Only if you have to but not recommended to stress your engine too often.
Tip: If you're driving and your car is overheating immediately turn your heater on full with max fan. It will help to cool it until you can pull over. Please do not run for long or you may blow your head gasket, then it will be a major repair. (At least $1500)
If you have to drive it, and can't have it towed, let it cool down to a very low temperature before refilling with fluid. When it starts to rise above normal temp, immediately pull over and let it cool again. Only if you have to but not recommended to stress your engine too often.
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#15
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like to provide a little insight to the 4 dollar fix u did ken it seems to work on exhaust into the coolant system. i put half a bottle in and saw almost no effect. 1 night coming home from bowling the temp gauge went crazy high. shut it off before it got to hot. well luckily i work at a tow company and got towed home for like 50 bucks. well next day started it up with both rad caps open absolutely nothing was coming past the thermostat and the gauge went up to like almost 3/4 before i shut it down. next day had the day off so i took out the thermostat and it runs fine poor'd the rest of the bottle in and i was still losing fluid. well recently cause i check it often haven't been losing a drop so i have to say that it fixed it. now i don't beat the **** out of it every once in a while ill pull off the light faster and louder than normal but never above 5k so think its fixed ill post if it isn't but from this point ima track how many miles
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