BATMAN

I have done some search and it seems that the general consensus agrees that 3mm is tougher and 2mm has less friction which = more HP.

So what is the HP difference between the 2?

I am thinking of going with 3mm seals since I like to have that margin of **** up incase the engine detonates while trying to tune it.

Please insert ur input and experience here.

Maxthe7man

My experience...
The 3mm rotors I have aren't milled worth a ****, but thats the milling..
When my 3mm rotor cratered, you can see why, the edge of the slot more or less folded over, which leads me to believe that the hardening of the edge along the seal slot it extremely important, for holding the seal straight, and upright under pressure..
My 3mm motor never idled right, it had a miss that was always present, it needed lotsa fuel at idle, and never compression tested over 80 psi/rotor face with stock ports..
My heavily streetported 2mm motor idles cleaner and stonger..
No 3mm's for me ever again..Max

93redFD

3mm breaks to much **** if your motor ever blows. My last street ported motor was with 3mm, I have to admit it was strong when it came to leaning out( 16:1+)(hayes motor too ) But you usually **** you rotor housings when you blow. The only thing thats better about 3mm is there tuner friendly.

UnSeeN

from what i know i think that you should stick with 2mm they work just fine..i always hear people saying only go to 3mm if your rotors are worn. i dont really think youre sacraficing much by sticking with 2mm over 3mm unless you really want that extra little margin of safety for ping and detanation. i believe the benefits of 3mm do not outwiegh the damage that they can cause to your rotor housings (as 93redFD pointed out) compared to 2mm when your engine does go. but there will always be the bias that people with 2mm will stay stick with 2mm and people with 3mm will say stick with those.

BATMAN

OK, i'll stick to 2mm
Seem to makes sense.

tomaszjc7

Well one of the biggest issues between the 2mm seal and the 3mm, correct me if I am wrong, is how much they can withstand detonation. The 3mm is said to be able to withstand much more detonation than the 2mm, making it easier for most to tune their cars. But with KDR advancing their anti-detonation technology (http://www.ignitionsolutions.com/pro...booster.shtml#) this issue might be taking a different perspective. Lets say you have a 2mm and 3mm motor and both are prone to detonation, which would you prefer. The 3mm is made to withstand more turbo psi then the 2mm. So if you are worried about losing hp due to more surface area friction from the 3mm, this can be made up by running more psi making up for that lost power (which I doubt is much at all.) So IMHO if KDR is going to go through with this, I would think it’s a better idea to go with the 3mm seals. But I guess we’ll just have to wait and see?? If you guys have any more information regarding this topic, please post…

-Tom C.

93redFD

I would much rather replace a seal than a housing.

tomaszjc7

Ahhh, maybe you didnt read what i just posted. You wont have to replace anything if you engine doesnt blow...

Zach McAfee

Your talking about the damage a larger seal will do as a point of comparison, but have you ever seen any apex seal break and not destroy everything in it's path?!?!

tomaszjc7

Exactly Zach, My engine just blew I had stock 2mm seals, Huge about 1mm gash in both the rotor and the housing... This put all the load on the other rotor and that one blew too! I dont see how there can be a huge diff. between the damage a 2mm and 3mm causes. Once the seal pops ***** ganna get fucked up no matter what kind of seal there is. When i get a digi cam ill post some pics of the damage and youll see for yourself. So pretty much i dont think theres anything to argue about anymore, KDR's anti-det system has solved the ever dreaded controversy of 2mm vs. 3mm.

GUZZLR

I had 3mm seals in my old engine and when she blew, all hell broke loose!!!!

My new engine has 3mm seals aswell and i am quite happy with them.

; )~

88fc3sw/HX83

3mm Ceramic seals won't destroy rotor housings, plus they're STRONG!

bureau_c

I really don't think the 3mm seals are used primarily because they're more resistant to detonation. While it may be technically correct, I question how significant that extra resistance really is. The real reason many engine builders use 3mm seals...and I got this straight from the horse's mouth so to speak while talking to Cameron at Pettit Racing when he rebuilt my motor...is that they often find that the groove that the seal sits in on the rotor is worn too much. They can still reuse the rotor if the mill it out a bit and use 3mm seals. That saves everybody a few bucks, and the 3mm seals work pretty well so everybody is happy. I don't think many engine builders would argue in favor of taking brand new rotors and modifying them to use 3mm seals. Of course someone will pipe up and find one, but that's what I've been told, and the source is one that I trust.

jds

88IntegraLS

Bingo. Just like reboring cylinders and getting pistons .02in over stock. Yes, I have held real pistons in my very hands before, I am not worthy.

peejay

Quite the opposite. They wear a *long* time, but they are fragile. They can and will shatter, and when they do, all hell breaks loose (literally).

I would much rather run 2mm sels than 3mm, simply for the RPM capability. 3mm seals are heavier and they do more damage to rotor housings from chattering and they can't handle as much RPM. Also, if you play with 13Bs, the 2mm seals are practically half the cost of 3mm seals now that Mazda cranked up the price on 3mm 13b seals. (If you play with 12A's you have no choice, you run 3mm, although Mazda didn't crank up the price like they did for the 13B stuff)

If you must do 3mm seals for whatever your reason... use rotors designed for 3mm seals ('74-85).

artguy

you doods never answered his question.

j