Quiggs

I plan on finding a blown S5 FC and swapping either a 13b-RE or 20b-RE. What is the better choice? Who has actually done this? I found many websites that have available RE's and FC mounts.
Would i be better off finding a blown FD to do the swap? Ive always wanted an FD but can't afford one, lol. I figured i could build a FC that's just as fast as an FD for a lot cheaper, and i like the looks of the FC anyway. I currently drive a 87 turbo II. Is there a difference when you do the swap if the body is a NA or a turbo? How about if its a convertable?

If anyone has a 90 or 91 FC with either a bad motor or no motor for a reasonable price (preferably white or black) let me know!

If anyone knows where to find the RE's under 2500 (including everything and a tranny - rotaryworks.com) let me know!

Thanks a million,
Jeff

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

If you can't afford a FD, then you won't be able to afford the 20B. Even if you do ALL the work yourself it is going to cost $10,000-$15,000.
Why do you want an RE motor so bad? The only real benifit is that the RE has bigger ports than the rest, hardend stat gears, better bearing and so on. All of those things could easily installed in a 13BT when you have it rebuilt.

peejay

Maybe if you treat the engine swap as "give lots of money to other people so they can fabricate stuff to make it a bolt-in-and-go proposition".

Quiggs

How do you figure 10-15 grand? I can get the engine for 2500 with a tranny and a body for about a grand. I know one guy who will do the swap for 1000 and another who said hed do it for 1500. That seems quite a bit cheaper than an FD, unless you can find me one for 6 or 7 grand, and thats still with money left over on the FC project to add some aftermarket performance products. And im not dead set on the 20b, i also asked about the 13b-re, which still packs a hell of a punch. I appreciate the replies, though

-Jeff

onefastrx7turbo

iTrader: (5)

It takes that much because that motor doesnt exactly "bolt in" to an FC chassis. Figure, you need custom motor mounts, fuel system, ECU, intercooler upgrades, etc etc. it all adds up...just stick with a modded 13BT

johnisenglish

Yeah, the engine is actually one of the cheaper parts of a 20b swap. I've got about 13k into mine already, the car isn't anywhere near completed, and I've been extremely conservative in my spending.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

in my 20b swap the motor was 38% of the job, by far the most expensive part. its still a $10,000+ job

Quiggs

Well how much cheaper would swapping the 13bt for the 13b-RE be? The one 13b-RE on ebay comes with a tranny, ecu, and for an extra 200, custom mounts.

Quiggs

what would be more reasonable...a 13b-RE swap into a s5 FC, or a 20b swap into an FD chassis? I did some searching and found reasonable motor-less FD's.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

not running fc = 1000
13bre motor = 1400

total 2400


not running fd = 3500
20b motor = 3000

total 6500

adjust those figures for your actual cars

Sponge Bob Square Pants

You already have a 13BT, you can built it up so it's faster than a stock FD for fairly cheap.

Quiggs

I have an 87 that only has 85k miles but the previous owner left it outside for years on end to rust...its got some underbody rust and other cosmetic blemishes, plus the engine bay is coated with that grimy anti-rust crap...i just want a s5 to do the 13bre swap in because i dont wanna sink any more money into my 87, and i want something cleaner and faster. I have wanted an FD for a long time, but cant find anything decent under 10 grand. I also just like the 13bre over the 13bt because the larger porting and all, it just seems to have more potential for higher horsepower, and is faster stock if i decide not to go mod-crazy.

If i could find this deal

"not running fd = 3500
20b motor = 3000

total 6500"

I'd do it in a heartbeat, because a friend of mine will install the engine for about a grand

Thanks for the replies everyone

onefastrx7turbo

iTrader: (5)

"not running fd = 3500
20b motor = 3000

total 6500"


Ahh...the stuff dreams are made of. Well dude...Im not trying to flame you or hold you down in any way. But, from what you have posted about not being to afford a decent FD for $10,000, then you can't afford a 20B swap. I'm tellin you. I am doing one right now. Just like Johnisenglish said, he hasnt even completed his yet and hes already at $13,000! I'll tell you a few things you'll need. Some kind of EMS, whether it be haltech, microtech, motec, whatever, you are looking at at least a grand for the computer. not tuned. If you want to go the "cheap" route, you'll have to stick with stock turbines, and custom make a front pipe for them. You'll need some kind of fuel pump and regulator, either the stock 20B one or a walbro. Next is the radiator. I can personally guarantee that the stock rad. in your FC WILL NOT keep the 20B from melting. Now you need some kind of front mount intercooler, i suppose you can use the stock cosmo one, but you will need to custom make piping. so, you are almost ready to bolt it in, but, now the tranny and motor mounts wont work. K2RD sells them, so thats easy. Now the motor is in the car, its got no front sway bar cuz it hits the oil pan, you probably have stock suspension which most likely wont last long with the added weight combined with the it's age. Everything is in, now you have to tune your computer for the 20B ignition and fuel. Even if you get all this way, you have a stock rear end that wont like the torque, and you have a stock tranny that will side with the rear end and surrender at any signs of elevated torque. All of this time, effort and the use of stock parts to get 280Hp at the shaft. That number is easily achievable with a modd'ed 13BT. in fact, its quite easy. You could even run a TD06-20G and maybe 12-14 PSI and be over 300HP easily. So, why go through all the hassle (and money!!) of a 20B swap when you already have the potential right now?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

mine was:

dead fc: $200

20b = $3800

the other $6000 was to make it run

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Mine was:

car: $500 (ended up trading so I spent nothing out of pocket)

core 20B +S&H= $795

$872 spent to get it to rev but not idle yet. It needs $500 more in intake components so it'll run correctly.

Restoring a core motor to a runable condition with MMO on the apex seals = priceless.

Quiggs

OK guys, i got the point. But what about my 13b-RE in a S5? That was the original plan, but i saw so many cheap 20bs on ebay. Who has done the 13b-RE swap!?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

me!

its a bit eaier cause you can reuse the fc waterpump/accesories/ and keep the stock ecu for a while.

i do recomment removing the stock twin turbos and throwing them as far away as possible

Sponge Bob Square Pants

Why does it have to be an S5 if you are swapping engines anyway?
The only (major) benefit of the S5 TII over the S4 TII is it's engine, and if you're replacing that anyway...
The S4 TII is a lot cheaper to buy and there are WAY more around to choose from compared to S5's.

Also, I could be wrong but doesn't the S4 TII have a stronger differential than the S5?

Quiggs

My S4 is an upstate NY car and has a lot of underbody rust from road salt (and an uncaring previous owner) that i dont feel like repairing. I also want the bomex aero kit that only fits s5's. I just want a 90's model over an 80's anyway, and the s5's usually have lower mileage on the chassis. If it has no or a blown engine, it wont be much more expensive than a blown s4.
Ok ok...maybe im just PICKY! And i like the damn taillights! lol
And back to the 13b-re How difficult is hacking out the twins to do a single swap?

Thanks again,
Jeff

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=309477