smileyou

how many of you have raced v8's such as c'5s t/a's or camaros... what were your results??

slo

iTrader: (1)

I beat a stock camero Z28 in my GSLSE, in the 1/8th, by about 2 10's. I would have lost if the race was 100 ft longer. I also had a much better reaction time. My 1/8th mile time was 9.7

Z28 was 97 automatic stock.

GSLSE had an exhaust and an Fc coil a cone filter and 225 45 14 bfg drag radials.

JustinStrife

iTrader: (2)

Well the V8 domestic cars are considerably heavier than any RX7 so you'll always have a weight advantage. My c5 weighs about 400lbs heavier than my FD, and about 600lbs heavier than my SR20 powered S13. However, they don't feel anywhere near as solid at say 140+mph as the C5 does. Also the C5 out of the factory is good for 170+mph.

rolfs_7

beat a stock v8 stang in my 85 SE i think it was an auto and a v8 camaro. never really seems to hard.

smileyou

stang is a joke.. im talking about ls1 cars

Orr89rocz

if you ran that then he ran a 9.9, which is horrible for any stock LT1 car.

LT1's arent too hard to beat, stock to mildly modded. well driven full exhaust cars are only mid low 13's on good tires. FD's with mild mods should be like that.

Ls1 cars are mid high 12's with exhaust/bolt ons. thats alittle more trickey. up to boost for sure

and from a roll, C5's are kinda deadly. they pull strong like at 100mph+. a well driven Ls1 camaro/trans am will be close to a C5 till about 90 where the vette's aero and weight advantage really shows

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

Have won more times than lost against LS1 F-bodies in my FD. The ones I've lost to have been my driver error, ie. late start, missed shift. A basic bolt-on LS1 with 125-150 shot of nitrous is a good race for me from 40 mph, I won't pull until about 130 mph.

My best runs have been against an '01 SS with all bolt-ons, head/cams, 3.73 gears, auto with torque converter. From a 40 mph roll, I'll walk him pretty good as soon as I hit the top of 3rd gear. From a 20 mph roll, I'll spin giving him a couple of cars that I can make up quick and be in his back bumper by 60 mph and will start walking up on him at about 100 mph.

Back when all I had was stock port with dp, cb, cai, M2 chip running 12 psi boost, I used to run a '98 C5 vette all the time from different speeds. We were a good match. Anything below a 20 mph start, I'd get him off the line. Above that it really depended on who got the jump. From a 40, he'd usually get me, from 60 mph or above it usually depended on who got the jump.

Jack
FD streetport, PFC plus all boltons, seq. twins on 12 psi boost

slo

iTrader: (1)

That sounds about right. This was at an actual drag strip, so R/T allways comes into play.
My 60' was also better, but I hade the GSLSE really well dialed in for the launch. I left the line at 4k with very little tire smoke (drag radials) with a .53 -.55 RT consistently, anything less than .5 was a red light. Consistency was really easy with that car, I made 10 runs in a row in the range of 9.69-9.72 every single time.

smileyou

honestly i dont get it... im not being a dick or anything but im curious how some ppl say they get a jump on ls1's and pull when they dont have torque available like ls1's.... im looking for a new car and those are my choices a fd and a ls1... and i dont see how a fd can deal with a ls1s torque...

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

Reaction time has absolutely zero to do with your 60' or any other measurement of speed. Your car is not going to be faster or slower just because you hit the gas sooner.


Three things come into play.

1)The RX7's in question have significant mods. Stock for stock, an LS1-powered F-body or Y-body will always beat the FD.
2)The RX7's in question weigh 6-700 lbs less than the F-body it's racing. That's .5 second in the 1/4 with no other factors considered.
3)Driver ability. V8 powered cars are not the easiest cars to launch without spinning the tires. It takes practice.

If you're trying to decide between an FD and something with an LS1, pick the simple answer: an LS1-powered FD.

slo

iTrader: (1)

No ****, I didn't say that it did. but reaction time has everything to do with who won the race at an actual dragstrip with a defined finish line. Especially in the 1/8th mile. In an 1/4 mile the camero would have killed me. Like not even close.


A 13b powered FD with a good driver, good suspension, and good tires will lauch fine with no torque at all. If the rules where that they had to launch at 2k rpm then obviously the 13b car would loose.

I need to go find my old timeslips, but my 60' times where really good, in a no torque car with maybe 150 WHP.


[QUOTE]
2)The RX7's in question weigh 6-700 lbs less than the F-body it's racing. That's .5 second in the 1/4 with no other factors considered.
[QUOTE]

The better setup race car will allmost allways win against the car with the most power and torque. There is a BP 1G 13B, that races the 1/8 mile all the time. He has the car stripped and back halved, 1650 LBS race weight (claimed) with ford 9 inch rear running 5.7 gears. T2 trans. He launches at 7k and does small wheelies. He consistently ran low 7 high 6 1/8th miles. He only has around 250 WHP and hardly any torque, and none of it down low.

I can't even imagine what its like to lauch an LS1 powered FD. I have driven rotary powered FD with 400 HP and standard 13b like torque for a 400 HP car in which first gear was usless on 26 X 10 slicks. Lauching at anything above 3k would destroy tires. Even with a good launch tires would roast By 5k. That was on a really well setup car though. I would think that with an LS1 you would allmost want to launch in second, and that it would be a real scary ride.

casio

i never find engine swapping to be a "simple answer." especially an fd with an ls1.

Orr89rocz

[QUOTE]No ****, I didn't say that it did. but reaction time has everything to do with who won the race at an actual dragstrip with a defined finish line. Especially in the 1/8th mile. In an 1/4 mile the camero would have killed me. Like not even close.

[QUOTE]

lol true... reaction time has alot to do with who wins...but unless ur at some kinda altitude, a Lt1 car shoud run low 9's in the 1/8. slick stock Lt1 cars with stick should be higher 8's. i run 8.80s on street tires in my L98 and a Lt1 has atleast 20whp on me.

make sure you heat those slicks up enough. 10inch wide slicks have been in the 8's and 9's easily. drag radials i can see spining. but a 400 hp ls1 will make 350-375 wtq and that can get out of hand with a 3.73+ gear rear end if your not setup right or not careful.

slo

iTrader: (1)

Thats it, really I thought it would make more Tq than that.

Orr89rocz

it depends on the cam and such...but a strong stock cube ls1 will make more hp than torque cuz of the intake runner and cam design. 400whp ls1 is stout, but its wtq will be lower than 400 thats for sure! its a trade off... more hp and abit less torque.
my tpi motor tho, if it was to make 300whp, it would put down 400-450lb feet torque easy. its the intake design

slo

iTrader: (1)

I guess thats just not what I would expect from an OHV V8 of that size. But you would rather have more HP than torqe. The 400 whp 13b fd I drove, was actually @ 425 WHP @ 360 Lb ft tq.
It was running custom hybrid sequential turbos. and had the most low end tq of any rotary car I have ever driven.

I drove it once on slicks, and once on street tires, on street tires it would chirp 3rd really hard. It would probably chirp 4th but I didn't try.

BlkS5TII

If you could give us the specifics of that setup I would greatly appreciate it. I still haven't given up my dream of getting an FD, so I want to know how monster torque was made.

slo

iTrader: (1)

It was not a mazda twin based turbo system. It had a tubular manifold and I'm not sure how the turbo spool/prespool was controlled. It had 2 or 3 peice ceramic apex seals, unk porting and was using ethonol or methonol injection on pump gas. Thats about all I remember. I saw the car/got to drive it when I was in the military, I spent about 6 weeks in australia. I think I took some pictures, I will try and find them and scan them in.

The horsepower and torqe numbers where as quoted by the owner. I never saw a dyno sheet, and I think I'm rounding up slightly its been a long time.

If you look through the 3rd gen dyno section, there are a few that are around 400 340 or there abouts, thats just a little bit more power.

Orr89rocz

granted there are alot of setups for LS1's..and there are cars that have cam/heads making 448whp and 412wtq. but most i seen near the 400whp range is high 300's tq. like 370ish. thats a ton of tq naturally aspirated


turbo cars will always have some kinda of torque with them as booost makes up for lack of displacement. boosted cars always have some torque

smileyou

smileyou

any of you guys actualy race a decent ls1.. imean someone that put some time into their engine with some decent mods. Such as a cam with true duals.... anyone run a ls1 cammed?

LOl im still torn bewteen a ls1 or a fd... although ls1 seems more reliable =*(

rajahFD

http://www.salinasracing.com/videos/...bavsevo9mr.wmv

a video of a friends LS1 camaro with only QTP Headers, Sweet Thunder True Duals, LS6 Intake Manifold, Pro 5.0 shifter, relocation brackets, 315 Nitto NT555R drag radials, Clear lid and K&N Filter.

the EVO 9 MR had full exhaust, boost controller and a tune.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

I've raced several Ls1s, from bone stock, bolt-ons, H/C, and one Turbo T/A, I Also raced a stock C5 Z06 recently. Most of these races were from a roll and would probably have a different outcome from a stop.

I've only raced a few mustangs Whatch out for the Terminators, especially when they are spraying. lol

Orr89rocz

ls1 seems to be the best bet.... its been debated here heavily... but for less money you can get a strong running Ls1. cam + 150 shot will make 500whp easy. some i seen do 550whp. that with a smaller FD will be nearly unstoppable on the street. thats some braggin rights right there. lol

matty

f-body and fd are two compeltely different cars. being torn between the two is moronic. what do u want a sports car or muscle car...its that simple.