dude u aint hanging with a 125 shot ls1 at 12 psi. what crack are u smoking?

 

He didn't say F-body he just said LS1 I think(unless I read his posts wrong).

In which case, I'd tell him to get the C5 corvette. Sure it's 400lbs bigger than an FD, but for not alot of money, you can get them into the 500rwhp range easy(turbos, boost, nitrous, take your pick) and get great gas mileage and reliability to make them a daily driver(like I do with my 01 C5).

Sounds like the guy would be better off with a more reliable and less finicky motor(ala LS1) judging from his posts. I don't think he could keep a rotary together at this point anyway.

 

how many time u guy will go faster than 100 mph per week. i will get a more good in turn

 

not true..and fbody can be just as much a sports car as the fd.

when u got a fast car, 100mph can be had in just a few seconds and easily obtainable

but i got to ask the similar question... how many of you go road racing on public roads when u go driving?

it goes both ways. as much as i like corners too, its still nice to have straight line power. i dont care if you can corner 90 degrees at 60mph if you can only get to 60mph in 8 seconds or something slow... you gotta have both

its already be proven a ls1 fd doesnt upset the balance and handling...so why not go with a motor that delivers more torque and power for less money and its easier...less finicky and reliable BY FAR.

 

Stick in your own pipe. I rarely post in this section so I'm not here to make **** up.

I've run at least three different ls1 f-bodies with basic bolt-ons plus a 125 shot. Dead even until about 125-130 mph from 40-60mph rolls.

My car has made 327rwhp at 0.80-kg/cm2 (~11.4 psi) on two different dyno jets. So 0.85 (12 psi) with lower intake temps on the road should be close to 340rwhp.

Jack

 

a 125shot bolt on ls1 is a 400+whp car with probly 500lbft of torque. 3500-3600lbs tho depends on model/options

i can see a 330-340whp fd at 2800-2900 race weight hangin with one.

 

What are you talkin about "race weight"

 

race weight is car curb weight + weight of driver and whatever gas u have in it. and w/e extras u have, such as subs/audio/tools, w/e else in the car

fbody race weight is usually around 3600lbs or so dependin on the dude driving

 

I'm not seeing it, but feel free to enlighten me. To me a sports car is nimble, and F-bodies don't exactly scream nimble to me. Even if the weight isn't overly hefty, it's a big car. I can't imagine that the center of gravity and polar moment are anything to get excited about. Those are two things you can't really change significantly without major work, and that's what affects the tossability of the car. Sure, I bet you could pull close to 1g with some real sticky tires, but what happens when several different turns are linked together? That's what the Viper does, real sticky tires to pull .98 g's but its slalom speed is equaled by stock Civics.

 

If you're hitting 340rwhp I can see you hanging with an LS1 running a 125 shot. It's when they start running an aggressive cam, headers, intake, AND that nitrous that you're going to need more power. My friend Z06 N/A makes 430rwhp. Throw my wet kit on there and he can be hitting 600rwhp on a 150 shot.

 

true, in stock form they are abit bigger...and somewhat hefty, 4th gen fbodies that is. and they aint nimble

but with some chasis stiffening subframe connectors, the right springs/shock combo, some sway bars, panhard bar and the right wheels/tires, they can handle very well. its a world of difference on these cars.

my 89 irocz handles very well in my opinion, even tho i'm not a huge fan of the steering ratio. but all it really needed was stiffer lowering springs and adjustable shocks. a whole new car. i have about 3-4 inches of ground clearance and i could have lowered it more! i just need bigger tires now. but 3rd gen fbodies are known to handle better than 4th gens.

but like you said, it might not like to be tossed around a whole lot, in say a tight autocross course. it will do fairly well, but smaller cars always do abit better on autocrosses anyway. this fbody would be more suited to more open road courses. where it can use its power and road holding ability--which is static turning forces like skid pads.

theres a site dedicated to road racing fbodies..and some of those guys have very impressive cars. but mainly, wheels/tires and shocks/springs will transform a fbody into something pretty good at handling.

now i never been in a s2k or 350z or anythign that is supposively known for its nimbleness. and i cant wait till i do experience that. but it does have the advantage of being smaller and more like a go cart so its response is gonna be great.

 

Do you think an F body with any amount of money into suspension, chassis and motor parts could keep up with a new condition 3rd gen rx7 (stock race model) with just maxed out race tires on an autocross?

Assuming equal drivers.

 

A LS1 with 125 shot and cam makes 500rwhp....my buddies makes 510rwhp to be exact. thats what he said. he even said a 150 shot. u think a fd with 320rwhp would hang with that?

there is no way!!! there is just no fing way.

 

ok...thats some good powet for that boost. but lets even say 340 rwhp..u think thats enough to "keep up" with a 500rwhp torque monster?
i say he would not only beat u, but leave u.

 

good question... it depends on the course, but i think if you built the fbody up it would do well. i'm talkin alot of money spent on the fbody to make it handle. proper wheels/tires, all the suspension goodies. and alot of weight reduction. 3000lbs isnt all that hard to reach in a gutted race camaro. so with tons of power from a modded ls1, the right gearing to match and race rubber, i have no doubt it COULD be done. but your comparing a stock rx7 with rubber to a modded to the tilt race car.

i havent been on the fbody autocross and road racing site in some time...so i'm not sure how the guys there are doing. but i do know there are some very impressive cars on there that will outhandle alot of cars out there on road courses.

no, not even close. thats why i said a bolt on car with the shot. cuz they only make around 400-430whp from what i been seeing. even at that power its gonna be a closer race with a 320whp fd. but a 500+whp fbody is an animal. ur gonna need closer to 400whp fd to handle that car

 

i could have sworn he said built car...let me go back and read

esit: he does say basic bolton....but i thought a cam is good for 30rwhp max..so we are still talking about a car that makes close 475 rwhp car..especially on a 150 shot.

 

maybe for a modular stang, but LS1 cams are good for awhole lot more than that.

typical bolt on cars make 320-340whp, depending on mods. for some reason, my buddies SLP edition SS with slp installed catback and lid, with tune made 333whp. doesnt even have longtube headers yet. his car is strong

but typically its 320-340whp. record being like 360 or something like that. the right cammed car will make 400whp. some made even more like 420-440 with wild cams. but agian, a good ls1 cam is usually good for 400whp on stock heads.

so thats about a 60-80whp gain. and on nitrous it only gets better.
my estimate might have been on the smaller side for a bolt on nitrous car, its usally around 430-450 with the 125-150 shots. the right cam can add another 100-120hp.

 

You really should go out and try to broaden your horizons. See if you can drive a Miata with some handling mods(or just a newer one) somewhere with some turns. You might see the other side of the car world where hp is not related to fun.

 

thats why i'm on these other forums...to broaden my horizons... i love all cars dont get me wrong. i just dont have access to other cars to experience them. lol i driven a few bad *** go carts and love the feeling of something smaller that handles... thats why i did suspension mods first on my car.

but to me, the car is gotta be fast all around. horsepower is just as necessary on a road course as it is on the strip. i want the best of everything.

 

best of everything, that is Rx-7. roteny engine have the best of power and weight ratio. It is just expensive to maintain. But who care. the engine on F1 car also use one or two time.

 

The LS1 STOMPS on the rotary engine in terms of power and weight ratio. My FD with 300rwhp 13b isn't going to be able to take a bone stock LS1 powered FD with the same power. With power mods, it just becomes more obvious.

 

Not trying to start an Ls1 VS 13B thread, but:

your saying a 300 HP FD with a 13B would be slower than a 300 HP FD with an LS1.

I think they would be very close match. Asuming that both cars had no AC PS smog controlls or stock exhaust parts. The 13B car would weigh significantly less than the car with an LS1. I don't think that the torqe advantage of the LS1 would make that much difference. And would probably make the LS1 car much harder to launch.

That said, I'm looking at doing a Miata LSX conversion. which will stomp all.

 

all people have their own opinion, he like ls1 more anyway

 

I'm all about the rotary engine, and wouldn't have my rx7 with anything but. But don't be blind to logic. An LSX isn't much heavier fully dressed than a fully dressed stock long block 13b-rew. The t56 is a heavier transmission though.

If the WHP matches in both cars I think it would be really close.

Ok this was for fanloi before he edited his post

 

not that it matters, but the ls1 is like 40 lbs more than the 13b i believe or something like that. i read it here in one of the other ls1 vs all threads. the difference is marginal. n/a ls1 wil make more power across the rev range than a smaller turbo motor of same power... its just the way it is. (some boosted motors of similar power and size may make more lowend tq/hp than the n/a version, depends on the setup). and the ls1's bigger inches wil make lots more torque all over as well.
and since you say rotary is expensive...and there are a lot more shops that know ls1's than rotarys just based on sheer numbers of ls1 powered cars...i'd say rx7 ls1 is best bet for a sports car.