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For those of you that enjoy the natural feeling of drifting with the Rx7 FC manual rack you may have found that your options for rack spacers and tie rods are limited. This is due to an off thread pitch on the passenger side of your manual rack.
To help give manual rack users more options we have came up with an adapter that will allow you to use any power rack tie rods and or rack spacers on your manual rack.
$29.99 plus shipping
send me a pm if you are interested or you can go HERE to purchase.
Last edited by stukellymotorsports; Feb 26, 2016 at 04:57 PM.
So you're saying the slower ratio is more desirable for drifting then?
I'm not trolling this is an honest question.
Its not really about whats good for drifting. Things like this are to subjective and are simply based on a persons preferred feel.
Some people could argue that no de-powered rack turns as easy as a manual rack.
You could argue that one is better than another for different types of motorsports but this argument is as double sided as engine swapping rx7s.
The biggest problem I have with a depowered power rack is that it's still too slow. (It's slower than the power box I used to have in my car. I did the swap for Reasons but "better" steering sure as heck isn't one of them)
One of these days I'm going to get around to putting a 2:1 quickener on it.
The biggest problem I have with a depowered power rack is that it's still too slow. (It's slower than the power box I used to have in my car. I did the swap for Reasons but "better" steering sure as heck isn't one of them)
One of these days I'm going to get around to putting a 2:1 quickener on it.
It would be completely undriveable on the street at that ratio without power steering, and probably dangerous to drive on the track too.
Something like 2-2.3 turns lock to the lock would be idea if you had power steering.
Why do you think so? It already has steering light enough to drive with two fingers.
Mind you I do drive with 195/60 tires on the street and 185/65 tires on course... Yes if I had huge tires or a lot of negative camber then life would suck.
You can't turn without rolling? That's already undrivable (by street standards) in my book.
Not easily, no. Turning sharply while accelerating just makes the front tires slide unless the road is very grippy. Need to be already rolling, then turn while coasting.
It's fine that you don't think my car is street drivable. Internet Knowledge says that my car could never be driven on the street, since bridge ports are extremely loud, idle at 3000rpm, and don't make any usable power below 7000rpm. I also like the one about not being able to run speed-density tuning with ITBs. I'm sure glad nobody told me that before I went and did it.
Not easily, no. Turning sharply while accelerating just makes the front tires slide unless the road is very grippy. Need to be already rolling, then turn while coasting.
It's fine that you don't think my car is street drivable. Internet Knowledge says that my car could never be driven on the street, since bridge ports are extremely loud, idle at 3000rpm, and don't make any usable power below 7000rpm. I also like the one about not being able to run speed-density tuning with ITBs. I'm sure glad nobody told me that before I went and did it.
Of course, that is all BS.
It wasn't my intent to start an argument. But I wouldn't recommend a 2:1 quickener (unless your steering is more than four turns lock to lock).
Bear in mind that a lot of BMWs (! What a change from the 80s) and some Fords have 1.5-1.8 turns lock to lock nowadays. And my big problem is needing to go from near full lock one way to near full lock the other way and back again, in the same corner, depending on how a bump kicked me. Most of the reason why I sucked so bad at driving my friend's Miata, he had manual steering and I could not keep up with it at all. Also it was way too light, could not feel what the front tires were doing.
nice product... im on a power rack with the lines removed but not "properly" depowered.
i've had this same setup that was UNBEARABLE with stock fd rims and 25mm spacers in the front...
now that i have "fixed" the front end around i can run stock FD rims with NO SPACER. also .3 neg camber both sides...
the fix was leaning my struts in as hard as they would go( the typical gain you would get with camber plates.)
now it's feels great. hard to decribe.. i can one hand drive it in the parking lot.. only use two hands if im turning the fronts" not in motion."
going back into my front suspension lengthen ball joint, increase turning radius with inboard tie rod end mounts.. maybe make my own custom lower control arm.. i want drift like angle without making an all out drift car.. must keep the alignment good enough to get 40k miles out of tires..
nice product... im on a power rack with the lines removed but not "properly" depowered.
i've had this same setup that was UNBEARABLE with stock fd rims and 25mm spacers in the front...
now that i have "fixed" the front end around i can run stock FD rims with NO SPACER. also .3 neg camber both sides...
the fix was leaning my struts in as hard as they would go( the typical gain you would get with camber plates.)
now it's feels great. hard to decribe.. i can one hand drive it in the parking lot.. only use two hands if im turning the fronts" not in motion."
well that and... the center of the wheel is the point of rotation again.. with a 1 inch spacer the rotation point was on the inside edge, physically moving the wheel instead of just spinning it's axis
