Who drives on manual FC racks?
For those of you that enjoy the natural feeling of drifting with the Rx7 FC manual rack you may have found that your options for rack spacers and tie rods are limited. This is due to an off thread pitch on the passenger side of your manual rack.
To help give manual rack users more options we have came up with an adapter that will allow you to use any power rack tie rods and or rack spacers on your manual rack. $29.99 plus shipping send me a pm if you are interested or you can go HERE to purchase. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2b1d5b2370.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...66ef527cad.jpg |
I am interested...
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Why don't you guys just depower power racks?
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Originally Posted by DaveEstey
(Post 12032279)
Why don't you guys just depower power racks?
The ratio of turns lock to lock in a manual vs a power rack are different. |
So you're saying the slower ratio is more desirable for drifting then?
I'm not trolling this is an honest question. |
Originally Posted by DaveEstey
(Post 12032299)
So you're saying the slower ratio is more desirable for drifting then?
I'm not trolling this is an honest question. Some people could argue that no de-powered rack turns as easy as a manual rack. You could argue that one is better than another for different types of motorsports but this argument is as double sided as engine swapping rx7s. |
The biggest problem I have with a depowered power rack is that it's still too slow. (It's slower than the power box I used to have in my car. I did the swap for Reasons but "better" steering sure as heck isn't one of them)
One of these days I'm going to get around to putting a 2:1 quickener on it. |
Originally Posted by peejay
(Post 12032405)
The biggest problem I have with a depowered power rack is that it's still too slow. (It's slower than the power box I used to have in my car. I did the swap for Reasons but "better" steering sure as heck isn't one of them)
One of these days I'm going to get around to putting a 2:1 quickener on it. Something like 2-2.3 turns lock to the lock would be idea if you had power steering. |
Why do you think so? It already has steering light enough to drive with two fingers.
Mind you I do drive with 195/60 tires on the street and 185/65 tires on course... Yes if I had huge tires or a lot of negative camber then life would suck. |
That explains it. By "drive" I assume you aren't talking about parking.
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Parking's not really a big deal, you have to be rolling to turn anyway because of the way the diff was set up.
Besides if the steering is fast, you can drive with both hands on the wheel all the time, so it's no problem. |
I run 10" slicks with a (correctly) depowered rack and it's NBD at low speeds in the paddock.
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Originally Posted by peejay
(Post 12033409)
Parking's not really a big deal, you have to be rolling to turn anyway because of the way the diff was set up.
Besides if the steering is fast, you can drive with both hands on the wheel all the time, so it's no problem. |
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
(Post 12033553)
You can't turn without rolling? That's already undrivable (by street standards) in my book.
At 200% it would be too heavy and too sensitive. I have 275 race tires on the front of my car with a manual rack. It is fine, I can maneuver it with moderate effort in a parking lot below 1 mph. |
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
(Post 12033553)
You can't turn without rolling? That's already undrivable (by street standards) in my book.
It's fine that you don't think my car is street drivable. Internet Knowledge says that my car could never be driven on the street, since bridge ports are extremely loud, idle at 3000rpm, and don't make any usable power below 7000rpm. I also like the one about not being able to run speed-density tuning with ITBs. I'm sure glad nobody told me that before I went and did it. Of course, that is all BS. |
Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
(Post 12033558)
Tell us how you turn you car WITHOUT the wheels rolling?
I have 275 race tires on the front of my car with a manual rack. It is fine, I can maneuver it with moderate effort in a parking lot below 1 mph. But what would it be like if it was suddenly twice as heavy? |
Originally Posted by peejay
(Post 12033587)
Not easily, no. Turning sharply while accelerating just makes the front tires slide unless the road is very grippy. Need to be already rolling, then turn while coasting.
It's fine that you don't think my car is street drivable. Internet Knowledge says that my car could never be driven on the street, since bridge ports are extremely loud, idle at 3000rpm, and don't make any usable power below 7000rpm. I also like the one about not being able to run speed-density tuning with ITBs. I'm sure glad nobody told me that before I went and did it. Of course, that is all BS. |
I respect that.
Bear in mind that a lot of BMWs (! What a change from the 80s) and some Fords have 1.5-1.8 turns lock to lock nowadays. And my big problem is needing to go from near full lock one way to near full lock the other way and back again, in the same corner, depending on how a bump kicked me. Most of the reason why I sucked so bad at driving my friend's Miata, he had manual steering and I could not keep up with it at all. Also it was way too light, could not feel what the front tires were doing. |
nice product... im on a power rack with the lines removed but not "properly" depowered.
i've had this same setup that was UNBEARABLE with stock fd rims and 25mm spacers in the front... now that i have "fixed" the front end around i can run stock FD rims with NO SPACER. also .3 neg camber both sides... the fix was leaning my struts in as hard as they would go( the typical gain you would get with camber plates.) now it's feels great. hard to decribe.. i can one hand drive it in the parking lot.. only use two hands if im turning the fronts" not in motion." going back into my front suspension lengthen ball joint, increase turning radius with inboard tie rod end mounts.. maybe make my own custom lower control arm.. i want drift like angle without making an all out drift car.. must keep the alignment good enough to get 40k miles out of tires.. |
lastphaseofthis nice product... im on a power rack with the lines removed but not "properly" depowered. i've had this same setup that was UNBEARABLE with stock fd rims and 25mm spacers in the front... now that i have "fixed" the front end around i can run stock FD rims with NO SPACER. also .3 neg camber both sides... the fix was leaning my struts in as hard as they would go( the typical gain you would get with camber plates.) now it's feels great. hard to decribe.. i can one hand drive it in the parking lot.. only use two hands if im turning the fronts" not in motion." Yes, simply put you decreased the "scrub radius". |
well that and... the center of the wheel is the point of rotation again.. with a 1 inch spacer the rotation point was on the inside edge, physically moving the wheel instead of just spinning it's axis
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You just describes "scrub radius" talking about the wheel instead of the tire.:icon_tup:
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i never had any schooling on the matter, just my own observations and fixes, roll center is what i am correcting next i think..
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We have many more available!
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So this adaptor allows you to run the same inner tie rods on both side just like the power racks correct?
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