jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Beyond the offerings from Tokiko and the street Konis, what's out there? Looking for double adjustable strut inserts and whatever I can fit in the rear. I need inserts for the front because of some uh "classified" mods I've done to fit some rules. Budget around $600 a corner.
Part numbers, prices and where to buy would be great.
Thanks

Beny

maby some tiens if you want to got coilover, their higher end stuff is very adjustable. maby some penski stuff but thats gunna be over $600 a corner

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Beny
In front I'll make the coilover stuff, just need inserts. I just can't wrap my head around the Penske price yet, who knows that may be what I go with. Oh yea, I have access to a shock dyno and plan on using it a lot.
Any body else out there?

Carl Byck

Ground control double adjustable(advanced design) are 400/corner, plus springs housings etc. ~2200-2400 out the door complete. A neat trick that a couple guys have done is the GCAD insert in a JID FLT-A2 housing. that way you can adjust ride height independent of preload. I'd use the GCAD housing, the stock front housings ears are too thin. Otherwise a Koni DA insert is ~400 a corner from true choice. I have the GCAD on both my cars, I like them so far. They will want corner weights, and spring rates to valve them correctly. You want to be pretty close, as the adjustment window is relatively narrow(as compared to Moton/JRZ/Penske), but cost half as much. You have to do a tremendous amount of stiffening before yopu can realize a real advantage with the higher end pieces IMHO. How much will the car weigh, how much power, what spring rates, and what are you doing for the balance of the suspension? Carl

SPiN Racing

Hiya John

For my EP... going with the Koni's from Tim at Mazda.... cause I cant afford JRZ remotes.
From what I gather from a national EP person.. (ahem feel free to chime in.. you know who you are) The Koni's at the top levels in EP will overheat. Hence the remote JRZ is the ticket... well... its a proven winning ticket.... But.. YES. You will pay a TON for em.
Since I am saving for a 5th wheel trailer for 2 cars.. I will stick to the plan for Koni's.

RETed

Wow, overheat the Koni's?
That's the first time I heard of this!
What track was this?

Anyone try and retrofit the Koni 2812's?


-Ted

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

As SPiN touched on, the car is being built for EProd. That puts it at 2350 lbs and 225-250 HP. As for spring rates, I don't know yet. The car is under construction and I like to put everything in the car while its on scales so I can choose where to put stuff. I have shocks and struts that I have welded at the ride hieght I want. After the car is complete I'll look at weights and center of gravity and the suspension model and pick some rates and bars then. The chassis should be pretty stiff, its tied together front to rear. I don't know if I'll take the time to test the torsional rigidity or not. I'll post some pics of the chassis soon.
Anybody have any thoughts on anything from LEDA or Ohlins, do they have strut inserts? I checked the QA1 catalog and they don't do inserts.
To all, great info so far, Thanks

Carl Byck

Well, AWR, and GC have very different ideas about spring rates. When I spoke to AWR, they were talking in the 275/450 range, GC was in the 375/550 range. My car will need some more spring, as it is rolling on 13" slicks, and will be putting ~450 to the ground. I have run the AWR rates on the street for years, and sometimes on the track. They work well, and definitely are a range I'd consider for rough tracks. For nice smooth tracks I am going to try the higher rates. John will chime in soon enough on rates, I wish I had bought his JRZs when I could have. Carl