Thinking about doing a fuel cell in my vert.

Main reason for thinking this way is...

stock gas tank is older than ****, would like to replace it, new one is more than a decent fuel cell

Ss lines all the way back would be nice

I'm going to be doing a custom gauge cluster and would like to use an aftermarket fuel level gauge, is this possible with a fuel cell?

Best place to mount it?

I was thinking of under the trunk where the stock gas tank sits or maybe fabbed somewhere into the floor but would prefer to keep the trunk space.

I guess just give me suggestions and sway me in whatever direction... as far as the stock lines being good for 400hp I know that , when done I'd like the car to be pushing somewhere more than that and it would be smarter now to just do all the supporting mods starting from the back to the front.

Thanks,

Ark

 

There is a ton more than the price of the cell to figure in. If you aren't mounting it yourself figure at least the price of the cell in installation labor. Then all the plumbing and sending units, surge tank etc etc. WAG on the price of doing a cell the way you described is $1000 maybe more.

Have you looked into getting your stock tank reconditioned? Last one I did cost about $180. If you check with Eastwood products they have a great kit to do it yourself for about $45 IIRC.

 

Hmm,

care to go into more detail about what exactly you mean by plumbing and sending units and the job that a surge tank does?

I plan to do a whole SS fuel system anyway so the way I figured is I might as well just do a fuel cell and run lines all the way up. Money is somewhat of an issue but not too much, I'd rather do first and do it right and never have to **** with it again.

Thanks,

Ark

 

Would you consider putting a bladder in your existing tank? Would save you the trunk space, the $ to fab up anew one.

 

That is really "ghetto". Ideally, you'd only run flex hose to the body, then hardline to near the engine, then flexhose from there to the fuel rail.

Check the rules for your sanctioning body. Most require a liquid-proof bulkhead between the tank and the driver compartment. This means, if the cell is in the hatch area, then you need to either build a sealed box around it, or you need to put a Lexan/similar window "bulkhead" just behind the seat. Clear so you can see through it, of course.

If you're not racing, then you're really better off with a stock fuel tank. Cost a hell of a lot less, too.

 

Fuel level sending unit to go with the aftermarket guage AND fit in the fuel cell.

The surge tank is if you are keeping the injection you need to have a way to control a small amount of fuel around the fuel pick-up. I built mine to sit in the back, center of the cell with three one way doors to let fuel in but not let it out easily. I also return the fuel when it circulates to the surge tank through a hole in the top of it. Mine holds about .8 gals.

I think I have about $225 in plumbing parts in my set-up. This includes an external fuel pump(fits a Ford Truck!), a bunch of Earl's -6 fittings, about 8' of stainless braided hose, and maybe 22' of 3/8" aluminum fuel line from Moroso.

 

if you use SSlines its the sux to find out where a leak is if you get 1...

 

Once again - if it isn't for a race car, don't spend a lot of time putting race parts in it just to be cool. Your comment about doing it right so it doesn't have to be done again? All the real fuel cells I know of have very definite life spans. Rubber bladder or rotomolded bladder have to be replaced at a normal service interval. If you aren't talking about a very custom sized and shaped cell, you are also likely to need cutting and fabricating to mount it to the car. If you arent intending to have to open the trunk to fill it, then you are going to need to plumb it properly, and the right pieces might approach the price of the cell. Racers understand that race parts are a tradeoff. Nothing in vehicle dynamics is free. Fuel cells are more maintainence intensive and expensive than stock systems in trade for larger capacities and increased safety. Just because something is a "race part" doesn't make it better for a street car. As for braided steel lines? Again racers use them for increased safety, durability, and rules compliance. If you decide that you have to have these for your grocery getter, be careful how you route them. If they are able to move against some part of the car they will actually cut through a frame rail given enough time! I've seen it happen.

 

Decided to bring this back from the dead instead of starting a new thread. I have a 15gal fuel cell and an autometer fuel level gauge. But the gauge doesn't read right. I know there are different ohms for diff tanks but i have no info on my tank... Is there any way I can find out what I need.

Thanks,
charlie