RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

this is a question rarely asked or answered so i'm curious what people have had the best luck with at filling the ports with?

i'm sure many people have used many methods but who has used what for the longest and had no issues with leaks, material flaking, cracking, etc, etc, etc.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Its a Devcon product, I forget the number. I think racing beat sells it, see what it is and order it locally from just about any fastener supply house.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

thanks for the suggestion, i'll check it out.

if anyone also has had anything they used successfully for longer periods of time feel free to share.

found the devcon product on RB's website:
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...nal/19994.html

looks like it's about $38 to purchase direct.

bumpstart

while i havent done a PP with it
i use belzona 1111 as well as alum and steel devcon for many little jobs on rotaries
from fixing manifolds to blocking coolant galleries
they are all very good products
( FYI i have also used quicksteel and knead it and they are the very poor cousins )

belzona is pretty much the premium epoxy metal product
and is a much harder and smoother setting product than the devcon that machines well

but does cost a fair bit more ( when you can find it )

ArmyOfOne

iTrader: (12)

I have used both Devcon and JB Weld Steel reinforced 2 part epoxy with success.

One of the things I did was used threaded rods bent into the ports to hold it all together if something were to crack. Surface prep with sandblasting and mineral spirits made the biggest difference in adhesion. Another thing I have done is to add a thin layer of RTV red or orange as a membrane for the interference point to keep the fuel away from the epoxy on p-ports.

On the manifold side leave about an 1/8th of an inch space and fill with rtv red or orange to keep the vacuum leaks to a minimum for the long haul and cover with an aluminum plate.

Just my 2 cents.

91RX7N/A

only cow does it cost more, i went to there website nd **** sounds perfect, they say to use it on some serious stuff

"Oversized bearing / bush housings
Fractured and holed casings
Leaking tanks
Scored hydraulic rams
Sloppy keyways
Scored machine beds
Fractured pipes
Undersized / scored shafts
Stripped threads"

and theres a dealer 20 minutes from my house in Wauconda, IL. the only problem is the smallest size they have is a 4 pound bucket thats $350!!!

so i think il stick with the devcon lol


anyone ever try concrete like hard blok????

peejay

I used JB Industro Weld, aka "the BIG tubes", had zero problems with any of it, and the engine saw below freezing temps as well as 240+ degree coolant temps (oops). No fancy prep other than thorough cleaning of the ports with carb cleaner and a wire brush, and then non-chlorinated brake cleaner for a residue free finish. Once it sets up, it will NOT break apart, and it will have a puzzle-lock fit in the port, so it will no go anywhere.

But, you know what? If the Devcon is $38, just use that.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

thanks for the suggestions, i plan on putting it to the test on a PP 4 rotor so there will be 5 irons to fill.. and i want it to last.

indio84

iTrader: (7)

my choice would be belzona no doubt about it, we use it in the oil refining industrie and when it bonds or seals. it does not break or chip or whatever. the problem is finding belzona.

Donovan N.

To add to the question, how much devcon would be needed to do a 13b? Should I use the steel compound on the irons and aluminum on the housings? And finally should I use a putty or liquid compound?

gawdodirt

I'd recommend the JB Weld. Why? Cost, availability, temp limits, and ease of use are reasons. But mainly is that it is very durable and works well for 4 seasons of racing ; so far.

GD

Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

If you're using 6-port irons you'll need two jars of Devcon to properly fill the ports.

I've used Devcon to fill the intake ports and JB Weld (the big tubes) to fill the water jacket.