bean13

iTrader: (1)

I am rebuilding my ITS engine and am looking to increase the effectivness of the ole oiling system. I have heard of fellas using a turbo oil pump to increase pressure, someone told me it was like up to 120psi, what you fellas think? Any other ideas. Thanks!!!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the turbo oil pump is bigger, use it if its in the budget.

also the FD oil pressure regulator, appears to be a good mod, its like $23 too, and you should put in the FD front oil pressure spring too.

not sure if it legal (dont see why its not) but a baffle plate (racing beat) is a good idea, bigger oil pan couldnt hurt either...

better ducting for the oil cooler, or run 2 of em

etc etc

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Yea a turbo II oil pump is a start, then shim the front and rear regulators. Then you will have about 100psi

My Fd runs about 140psi when cold and about 100 when warmed up. But i have the FD front iron with the extra oil opening for the Oil pump.

bean13

iTrader: (1)

How much and where do you place the shims? Thanks, good advice fellas, i apperciate it.

RussTypeS

iTrader: (3)

You should know that the only IT legal mods mentioned so far are the baffle plate and oil pan. nothing else mentioned is legal.

give this a good read before you build...
http://scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/GCR2007.pdf

wrankin

Good comments about legality. However, I can't think of anyone who would protest shimming your regulator. It's a reliability mod - clearly not performance (of course, the performance of a seized engine is, uhh, zero )

Just keep the reliability modes close to your chest and don't go listing them on some web site or forum.

-b

bean13

iTrader: (1)

yeah thats what i was thinking, dont see the unfair advantage in that one, but something to be aware of and think about, good info indeed.

31rx7

Hopefully one is going fast enough to where others really notice and will protest!

Seriously, in IT something like this is unlikely to get specifically protested. On the other hand, if you are torn down for a more obvious issue and they happen to find it, then you are out of luck!

RussTypeS

iTrader: (3)

I agree it's not a big deal, and would never protest someone for that, I just wouldn't go around advertising things like that.

I'd use the FD spring and regulator instead of shimming. Those parts are pretty cheap, might as well do it the right way.

You might also consider the oil jet mod, (which not ITS legal either, but a lot of people do it).

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Funny, I was thinking of that last night. Guess the coolant jacket mods are illegal too then.

designfreak

legal or not im pretty sure that +90% of ITS FCs out there have something along these lines done

bean13

iTrader: (1)

anyone have first hand esperience, just got a turbo pump, its the same as an NA, parts numbers are the same. What gives??? I assume he ment TII and not a 3rd gen? Anyone sure a 3rd gen spring and reg will boost pressure? Thanks

bean13

iTrader: (1)

anyone have first hand esperience, just got a turbo pump, its the same as an NA, parts numbers are the same. What gives??? I assume he ment TII and not a 3rd gen? Anyone sure a 3rd gen spring and reg will boost pressure? Thanks

whats the oil jet mod? I premix, are you talking about the oil injectors???

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

The pumps are not the same. The turbo pump is an N318 number while the NA pump is an N326. The turbo pump has 17.5mm rotors while the NA pump has 12.5. Not sure what you're holding but there is a difference.

Yes the 3rd gen regulator will increse pressure to 100+ psi. When using the rear regulator go ahead and buy the 3rd gen front spring while you're at it instead of trying to shim the NA spring. I've built a number of engines like this.

bean13

iTrader: (1)

hummm....guy must have sold me the wrong thing by accidnet, where are these numbers on the pump, by looking at them they are identical.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Measure the rotors. You may have two turbo pumps. Without travelling out to the shop I'm not sure there are number caststamped into the pump.

bean13

iTrader: (1)

I think I have two na pumps, the rotors are identical, at the largest, apex to apex, it is 1.401 inches/35.59mm. The only visible difference is that one has a small stamping of 2-1 wihle the other is 2-2. Dunno if that means anything, thanks for the help!!!

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

You need to measure the thickness of the rotor. The diameter is the same. The measurements are in a previous post.

bean13

iTrader: (1)

they both measure 12.5....shucks he got me. Guess I have two NA pumps.

bean13

iTrader: (1)

and thanks for the help and time everyone, just pm'ed the fella I bought it from and told him to check out this thread, think there was a minor mix up, no biggie, he seems to be a real good fella. Thanks again!

bean13

iTrader: (1)

ok so i put a thread looking for these parts and the 3rd gen guys have no idea what im talking about...

front regulator/w spring and rear regulator/w spring correct? off a 3rd gen

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

On the front iron, take a look at the passage from the pickup flange, to the oil pump. There are several rough edges and sharp edges that restrict the flow of oil from the pickup to the suction side of the pump. Take a die grinder and clean that casting up.

Besides the 17mm pump, I would also recommend a larger capacity remote oil filter, and then input the filtered oil into the engine where the old stock oil filter used to sit; not down at the bottom by the rear regulator.

drago86

Just buy it new, it's less then 25 bucks for the rear regulator. You shouldnt actually have to touch the front regulator, both the FC and FD front regulator bypass at 154 psi according to the FSM,..

alot of people do it for good measure though i guess.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its actually not uncommon for the fd fron spring to be broken on dissassembly, seen it several times

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

0839-14-273A - Front cover relief spring. They're <$3 and they do fail. Change it.

That part is in the front cover under the 23mm cap on the bottom of the cover. Take the cap off (you are cleaning in there anyway right?) and the spring and plunger will fall out. Replace the spring. Some will shim it about 1/8" for more pressure.

N3A1-14-230 - FD rear pressure regulator.

This screws into the rear iron. Impossible to miss. It bypasses at a lower pressure than the front regulator and is the primary means of controlling oil pressure. The front regulator is really more of safety device for extremely high pressures with thick oil at cold startup.

Other pieces....

8553-11-411 - Comp e-shaft oil jet. When using this you remove the ball and spring under the stock jet for constant flow and more overall flow at high RPM.

Thermal bypass plug. Eliminate a possible failure point.

RX-8 gears and bearings. It's cheaper to buy all new 8 gears w/ bearings than it is to buy FD bearings (which are MUCH cheaper than the Comp 3-window bearing) and do the machine work on the FC gear to make use of the multi-window bearing. The 8 gears are wear treated as well so that's an additional advantage over the FC gears.

Check the clearances on the rotor and main bearings. The Comp manual has a good writeup on suggested clearances.

If you're entertaining the idea of having the rotating assembly balanced anyway pony up for a new 8 e-shaft. Provides a little extra clearance on the back side of the rear main (which you can do on your own with an FC shaft if you desire). Half pound lighter and it's only ~$140 from MS.

The big filter is a good idea but not neccesary IMO. I've had engines run multiple seasons shifting at 8500 with consistent over revs to 9000 and continue to reuse the bearings. Keep good clean oil in it and you don't have to worry about a smallish stock filter clogging up.