FortyFiveD

iTrader: (2)

So far ive been to two track events and had a blast. I have a lot of support from the shop i help out at and some friends that race also. I jusst wanted to get some feedback on my car see if anyone has any pointers or tips that could help. i know im aleady going to change out the hood, and eventually the spoiler and mirrors, i also have some carbon fiber parts lined up to save weight. to see the car and a list of mods follow this link

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2605909

wrankin

Do yourself a favor, forget all the blingy parts and pieces. If you want to become faster and have more fun, spend the money on two things:

1) the driver.
2) the driver's safety.

Get a good roll bar, get harnesses and proper driving seats. I am assuming that you already have a good full-face helmet. The next piece of carbon fiber you buy should have "HANS" written on it.

Budget your money for more events. You need to work on the driving skills. All the go-fast bits in the world won't make you a better driver. In fact more performance can actually hide bad habits.

Budget your money for consumables. Gas, tires, pads, fluids. HPDE fees. Travel and lodging for other tracks. Parts that break (and things will break).

And lets not forget - have fun out there.

-bill

FortyFiveD

iTrader: (2)

thanks alot all the parts i have on the car are things i installed before i decided to track it. i know things will break cuz they already have (my first track day=blown stock rad and second track day steel braided line broken= losing all of my engine oil) trustme about the blingy parts im getting rid of them asap and get parts that help at the track. i have a friend that can get me a six point cage at a good price and im looking at getting a sparco helmet because the helmet i have now isn't good enough for serious events(sadly)

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

#1 on the go-fast list of things to do: Seat time.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Spares! If you can think of it, it can break. Over the years I've been putting together a kit of all the crap that can go wrong. Nothing worse than losing a whole day at the track to a cheapo part that could have been changed in mere minutes.

My current spares kit includes:

brake calipers (front L&R, need to get the rears)
brake pads (all)
brake rotors (all)
radiator cap
oil filter
oil drain bolt with washer
oil (6 quarts)
brake fluid (motul 600, 4 or 5 bottles)
fuses
light bulbs
crimp connectors with crimping tool
wheel studs (a couple of each F&R)
lug nuts
brake master cyl.
clutch master cyl.
clutch slave cyl.
clutch hose
brake hoses
senders for water/oil temp gauge
heater hoses
accessory belts
vacuum hoses
vacuum nipple kit
cotter pin kit
big box of misc metric nuts, bolts, and washers
alternator

Even this didn't save me at the last event I attended, when my turbo oil feed line cracked. Asking around in the paddock found me an arc welder and a person to operate the arc welder. I missed one session... not too bad, considering.

parts I need to add to the kit:

Radiator hoses
oil cooler hoses
stupid plastic thermostat housing radiator hose hookup dealie
turbo oil feed line
turbo oil drain line
turbo water feed line
turbo water drain line

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Oh, looking at your link, a couple more things.

Get a water and oil temp gauge in there. The stock one is useless, by the time it says too hot it's time for a new motor.

Get a radiator panel, it covers up the area between the bumper and the top of the radiator, so air goes into the radiator instead of over it.

Get the stock fan shroud back on there, the fan can't pull air through the radiator very effectively without it.

I can't see from the pics, but if those are missing I'm guessing your undertray could be missing too. Make sure you have the undertray, otherwise air goes in the mouth in front and then just goes under the radiator instead of through.

FortyFiveD

iTrader: (2)

wow gene thats a lot of parts ill see what i can do about all those. as for the blocking i'm going to be building custom blocking plates and the stock fan is going to go in place of electric ones. i have the gauges also ( oil temp, oil pressure, and water temp) i just need to install them Ive been lagging on that one.

Silkworm

I partially agree with the advice you've gotten.

Spend the money to get your car stable. Replace parts that fail now (coolant lines, oil lines, belts, brake system flush, new brake pads, wheel bearings. Don't want to be paying the cash to get into an event only to brake down 10 minutes into the first session for something you could have prevented.

Then spend the money on event fees. No big wings, no super sized wheels or big HP gains. Just go track the car as often as you can. Nothign will improve your lap times more than seat time.

PaulC

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I'd agree with this statement the most since you are just getting started. The others are geared to the more hard core track junkie IMO.

I spent the better part of 15 years tracking my street cars before I started racing karts. 5 of those years tracking my 88 GTU which was stock except for an exhaust. I spent my money on maintenance, tires and brake pads, oil and LOTS of track time (and women but thats off topic). That car NEVER broke in the 5 years that I beat the **** out of it.

Luckily I only broke down once in all of that time. Blew a turbo on my TII on the way home from an event. Knocking on wood that I don't break at my next event...

FortyFiveD

iTrader: (2)

HP gains won't be a problem the motor was unintentionally built before hand so it only get maintenamce. the wing and things won't be til much later. As for the brakes i want to put slotted rotors and im planning on porterfield pads, i have the steelbraided brake lines aready and im running motul 600. the only other things i need to do to the car before my next event is getting a hold of a stock S5 fan shroud, and undercover.

also thank you for the feedback

Black91n/a

I'd agree, track time and safety are the priorities. I'd also suggest looking for speed in the corners, that means race tires and some dedicated track wheels. That'll make more of a difference than all that carbon and lightening, but if it's going to be a pure track car, take out anything and everything that's not needed for free lightening. If it doesn't help the car go, stop or turn it's not needed.

wrankin

Oh, boy. Now you've done it. You've re-started the great track tire debate!

Some people claim that using street tires gives the car a more gradual and predictable break away in the corners. While not as fast, they do give you better feedback which which is perhaps more important for beginning and intermediate drivers.

On the other hand, having to back off every other lap due to tire chunking is no fun either.

All in all, I would stay with a good set of street tires until you are more experienced.


-bill

patfat

+1 seat time is the only way to make you faster

Black91n/a

I'd agree, race tires aren't for rookies, but it seems as though he's been to more than one event, so he's no longer a rookie. I made the switch after 6 days of schooling, when I made it into the B group (groups are A-D, D being novices). I had no problems really.

He wants to go faster, so I was giving a better suggestion on how to go faster for cheaper compared to spending all that $$ on carbon.

FortyFiveD

iTrader: (2)

im going to stick with the tires ive got "Falken Azenis" until my skills have improved enough not to be hidden by good tires. im also going to start removing interior parts keeping in mind that im going to be working my way up from street class to modified/unlimited. Thias should hopefully keep me from going to crazy with the car until im ready too.

patfat

That is why I bought a Porsche. I bring pads and rotors....

I miss the FD, but not the wrenching between sessions in Virginia summers- damn manifold bolts.

Zyrano

I'd also add spark plugs to that list, as well as a set of decent tools if you want to use any of the spare parts. Seat time is important, in fact, if you get someone experienced to ride with you to give you pointers, you'd get major benefits from the seat time...

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Heh. I haven't had to replace many of those, just wanted to have spares. The list of parts I've actually needed to replace at the track (not in order) are:


brake pads
brake rotors
radiator cap
turbo oil feed
aftermarket water temp sensor

off the track have included:

calipers
brake master
clutch master (both were marginal when I got the car)
engine Dunno if Porsches are any better on that front, a buddy of mine has needed two engines in his 996 that he takes to the track. He's luckily under warranty.

Make sure to get the correct tool for the rear caliper screw-ins. It's like 5 bucks at pep boys, and it's really easy to accidentally stab the boot and seals if you use a needle nose and slip.

FortyFiveD

iTrader: (2)

i just upgraded the brake pads finally bought the Porterfield street com pads and re did the fluid and resurfaced the rotors didn't have enough for slotted rotors. they feel awesome can't wait to try'em at the track

wrankin

Save your money. From all I have seen, heard and experienced slotted rotors don't offer any significant benefits over plain old flat rotors. Make sure to bed the pads in correctly (per the manufactures' recommendation) and you should be fine.

Have fun,

-bill

Black91n/a

Yea, slotted or cross drilled rotors aren't needed and don't help anything other than with lightening your wallet.

Are those the R4S or the R4? If it's the R4S I hope that's enough for you, as that's really just a heavy duty street pad and isn't close to being a race pad. Eventually everyone needs race pads (assuming they're getting faster/better).