specRX7_22

when replacing front rotors, you slide the rotor over the greased spindle, and then the washer with the notch in it, then the center nut. How do you guys regulate how tight you make the center nut? Cuz if its too tight, you'll have drag from it, too loose, it will wobble.

Cwaters

There's a procedure for that in the FSM. I had a hard time figuring it out. In the end, I just guessed at the tightness.

Cory

specRX7_22

i did a little testing of it last night and i found a way that works pretty well....

i torqued the nut to 60lbs (to make sure everything was seated) then backed it off and torqued it to 15 lbs. I was worried 15lbs would be too low but i was pullin and twistin on the rotor and it didnt wobble at all. and the wheel spun very freely. so that my new procedure lol.

DamonB

I have always done it by "feel". Wheel bearing grease is thick stuff so you must be certain that the bearings are seated. I pretty much do it as you said; I tighten it pretty firmly and then back off until the wheel rotates with what I feel is the correct amount of drag due to the grease. Unscientific? You bet. But then you can tell everyone else how it's your advanced experience that allows you to do it

Cheers!

why do u need to take the whole hub off to replace the rotors?

Unless the rotors are fused to teh hubs like in my case.

Anyhow The FSM calls for you to use a pull scale and measure around (XX) i can't remember off the top of my head at work. Anyhow i have noticed that the hub never wants to stay tight agaist the rotors. I slightly over tightened my axle nut so that the hub would stay tigh agiast the spindle. Else i would have to keep on retighten the damn thing every 2 weeks.

Make sure you use a new cotter pin! i believe the correct size is 5/32 of an inch.

specRX7_22

i didn't use new cotter pins... they were replaced at the beginning of summer when i last changed rotors. They looked pretty good still.

Silkworm

always always always use new cotter pins. A buddy of mine didn't and his lower ball joint nut broke, bending the control arm and royally gouging his wheel.

Cheap insurance.

Cwaters

Yeah, just go to the store and get a bag of 'em. You never know when you'll need one.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Agreed....

A cotter key is bent over to secure it. Once you bend it over the metal has fatigued (sp??). Then when you bend it back straight it is useless. let alone having to bend it again the second time.

Like an oil filter - You always use new cotter keys.

-billy