When I have a chance I'll load up the vid from the last session of the day when the tires were smoked and you'll really see some hand work LOL

 

Here's vid of me sliding around during the last session of the day. Apparently the continental slicks are good for about 8 heat cycles. Definitely won't get these again and clearly won't recommend them either. They are slower than R6s and heat cycle out very fast. Normally get about 12 heat cycles out of the R6s.

 

Yeah, those tires are done!

Waiting for more reports on the BF Goodrich Rival - the last report I say it could pull within 0.04 G of a Hoosier A6 on an autox course.

If so it would be a great track tire.

 

310 bucks for a hoosier R6 275 40 17 is robbery. I'll stick with Hankooks for 220 They don't leak, they have good grip, they balance out well and they last longer.

 

310 bucks for a hoosier R6 275 40 17 is robbery. I'll stick with Hankooks for 220 They don't leak, they have good grip, they balance out well and they last longer.

Hopefully the BF goodrich tire will also be priced right

 

Went to summit for the 1st time this year and with the 4.44 rear end gears it was a challenge trying to figure out my gearing etc...... I left a lot of time on the table because of poor traffic control, gearing, early braking, old tires.........you name it but still finished 1st with a 1.185

This year in TT with NASA a rotary powered car is given .3 points which it desperately needed to even attempt to compete against those corvettes which always seem to be my NEMISIS

So I was able to enter a higher than actual HP and lower weight on my sheet just to be safe but lets just say if I prep this bad boy to the hilt I could compete pretty well in TT2 at this time if there are actually any cars out there LOL. I run a smaller tire 275 which gives me .4 points and combine that with the .3 for low displacement engine and BOOYAH I have some serious room for POWER!!!!! But this could also lead to serious chance of blowing up LOL. However the car is still hanging in there with a low compression front rotor and approx 5k on this engine. Speaking of mileage I only went 120 miles this weekend versus the normal 250 to 300 plus at your typical 2 or 3 day HPDE event where instructors are allowed multiple sessions.

This time there was a nicely driven C6 that was set up really well but I also noted has room for improvement like a big wing etc..... The driver is an ex top fuel type drag guy so he could wheel the car well and ran a low 19 so I squeaked by him but he's run 17s in the past so I was thankful to get the win.

The very 1st session there was a wreck in the 1st lap in t10 (most important turn) and on my flyer lap (2nd lap) the driver in the yellow c6 slowed heavily because of the yellow flag and I couldn't pass so that killed that session and then the checker came out the next lap because the wrecked cobra factory five tt1 car was in a bad spot on the inside of t10 so the officials didn't feel comfortable allowing the session to continue.

In session 2 there were technical difficulties with timing so if you didn't run more than 5 laps you didn't get a time (ran 5 laps LOL) so all the fastest drivers didn't get times. The quicker cars usually come in early because you run into traffic on about the 3rd lap.

With two session down my tires now have 4 heat cycles counting the 2 from the VIR N event so they are well past their prime

Now on to session 3 and again my nemesis the yellow corvette driver decides to race me so I loose my spacing for the 1st couple of laps and actually run my best lap following a car into t1 and passing going into t3 or in other words less than ideal for a low lap run..... oh well thankfully it was still good enough and I'll load up the vid of this run asap.

PROBLEMS and solutions: I think I should stay in 4th for t3, go into 2nd for t5 and shift to 3rd for the carousel and shift into 4th for t9, leave in 4th for t10 and left foot brake anytime I don't shift. If I do these things smoothly I think there's an easy second especially with good traffic control and fresh rubber

Summary: good event, 1st place finish and lots of potential for a lower time at SPR

PS loading a vid now of the 2nd session Sun (time was 1.187) and you can see me still experimenting with gearing etc..... and this is the last session (i'm a slow learner hehe) also note the mustang at the end of the vid (2nd to last lap) that either checked his mirrors and decided he didn't want to be passed or didn't check his mirrors despite that being a straight away combined with a bad line under the bridge where he moves right and then back left

PSS I tighten the hell out of the diff bolt and it's not LEAKING!!!!!! HURRREFFINRAY!!!!!...........fingers crossed...........holding breath..........etc.....

Once again vid upload to youtube doing crazy wide screen thing

Fritz Flynn - YouTube

 

We've seen those two (red and black) Vettes with the wings at VIR before. 1:18.5 is a helluva lap. I gotta get back out there myself.

 

Thanks man!

The black is actually blue and we haven't seen that one at VIR but he drives pretty much every event with NASA. FAST well prepped c6. Ran a 1.14 in TT1. Does 57s at VIR

Here's the 1.185 lap

 

Fixed the aspect ration on the vids so they look much better now

See picture of a sidewall failure on a Hoosier A6 which is happening more and more with both A and R6 hoos, freaky stuff.

See pictures of some nice FAST c6 cars. The yellow one is the one I was competing against and the blue one ran a low 1.14 in TT1. NOBODY was running 1.14s at SPR even 3 years ago.........THAT's SUPER FAST!

 

Fritz, awesome stuff. Curious to know, are you running an oil catch can? I heard these cars need some support in this area, especially if you're running stock twins, while running out on track. If so, do you mind sharing the setup (wasn't sure if it's a simple setup or something special)?

 

Thanks and good question but I've always felt it's people making a big deal out of something that's not really a problem when the solution is a simple as run a quart to 1/2 quart low.

My setup is a stock fill neck with catch can and single turbo and I only catch oil if it's over filled. I've had my car for 7 years and never drained the catch can and I don't think anything is even in it at this time.

The only time I had a problem with catching oil was with the big cast aluminum oil pan that I used on one of my other single turbo track cars long ago and I took it off immediately and went back to the stock pan. So if you have the cough cough upgraded pan you'll need to improve the baffling.

 

I'll occasionally get PMs about my cars setup so here's a quick list:

Brakes:
Front: Brembo GT kit with PFC front pads: Used to run 01s but they are hell on rotors so I'm leaning more toward 06s (may not make them anymore) but my understanding is the 08s are good but either 6s or 8s are slower than 1s so as always it's a give and take scenario.

Rear: 99 kit with Hawke blues or DTC 60s. Like the 01s the DTC 60s may cause some premature rotor cracking but haven't used them enough to be sure of that conclusion.

Susp: Tein super racing coilovers (794 springs at each corner) and I really like these because they are durable and work well. Not the very best but by no means junk either and very economical (approx 3k). Tri point front bar .188 wall thickness currently set in the middle with the oem 93 bar out back. 93 bar is thicker than 94 or 95 and is the perfect rear bar IMO it may also be hallow because it feels light. M2 toe links but ran stock for years until they developed too much play.

Wheels and tires: SSR comps very light approx 16.5 pounds (shame they are no longer made) 17x9.5 plus 42 with 275 40 17 hankooks or Hoos however Pete just informed me that Hoosier is now making a 275 35 17 which will go on next because I'll be able to lower my car 1 inch which is HUGE!!!!!

Engine and cooling:
Med street port and otherwise stock. I may use the soft seals on the new build
Apexi BNR fuel pump with 1200 secondaries and 550 primaries
PFC tuned by PFS
RE big vmount with custom ducting (water never over 190 (normally 175 to 180) and air never over low 55c and normally 45c)
25 row oil coolers that need ducting but they are so close to the bumper opening they seem to do OK unless it's extremely hot but temps don't go over 230 and typically are 210
t04e oil only cooled turbo 60 ptrim front 1.06 back. Hi boost is 14 psi which bleeds down to 10 and low boost is 12 psi which bleeds down to 8 psi. This allows for good torque, smooth power band and long engine life. I like the HKS race wastegate, the HKS cast manifold and my DP seems to always end up customized.


Aero: GTC front bumper and rear wing and I just added knock off REA rear diffuser. Plan to lower the car with the 275 35 17 tire size and add an APR wing which should be a big improvement. Possibly a small front splitter as well.

Along with the aero I could add an electronic boost controller to keep the boost at a flat 13 or 14 psi which would really add some power BUT we all know the cost of power so that's probably not going to happen.

I may also find some ways to take weight out like removing the HLs etc....

As mentioned with the new NASA rules for TT2 I have some room now on power and weight which is nice. I thought about running TT1 but the comp is just well above me and my car.

 

Thanks for sharing! Are you going to be at VIR this weekend?

 

I'd love to but must spend some time getting the junk car out of my garage etc.... sometimes work gets in the way of play

TrackDaze run a good show

 

Funny you posted your info Fritz; i was about to send you a PM about your mods because i've been watching all you videos and had gotten curious too.

 

I'm surprised you prefer Hawk blues over the DTC60s, everything I've read says the 60s are supposed to be easy on rotors.

It's also good to see that your engine setup is relatively stock and you're having good luck with the RE kit., hopefully their new kit works as well on FCs

Do you have any pictures of the addition v-mount ducting?

Also, last time I checked mazdaspeed '99 spec rotors were ~$200 each. how long do they last? or are you using the racingbrake 2 piece version.

 

Fritz,
I've got a set of 08's I'm going to try at VIR. Last set were 06's, which seem to maybe wear a little better than 01's (they are discontinuing 06's), but it's hard to say as spotty as my track time has been. If they don't, I'll go back to 01's :-)

The Blues and DTC60's both work. I think Blues are cheaper.

Overall, as true with both my and Fritz's cars, you'd be surprised how "pedestrian" both are in terms of mods.

 

I'm not saying the blues are better I'm saying they don't seem to crack rotors as badly as the DTC 60. Typically the better the pad the harder it is on the rotor and even though the newer style like 01s and DTC60s don't chew into the rotor as much as the older style they do HEAT them a lot so the rotors crack prematurely if you don't have some killer ducting setups.

It's my gut feeling that the older style pads that chew up the rotors eat into/grind off the metal and the newer style don't rip into the metal as much but have intense grip which causes lots of heat on the surface that isn't getting removed as quickly so it cracks more. The faster you stop the more heat you are creating and the more your rotors will crack I don't think you can have a faster stopping pad that creates less wear/cracks than slower stopping pad.

The 01 is a great pad but it cracks my rotors (high torque/grip) worse than 06s and I think 08s are even easier than 06s but will be slower so as mentioned it's give and take.

If I wanted to go fast I'd go 01s front and DTC 60s rear but I'm a cheap lazy bastard so I'd rather keep my rotors alive and not have to replace them as frequently.

I don't have time for pictures of parts much less my car but at some point I'll take some pics of my car and post them up.

In my experience the pad life of the 06 is similar to 01s but they appear to be easier on the rotors. This is my 1st set though and most of my driving was during 60 or 70 degree weather so they may be just as bad on rotors as 01s but because they don't have as much bite I'm guessing they are easier on the rotors.

Next set going on for FSR will be 08s so we'll see how it goes.

So far I have about 4 events on the front rotors which is usually about when I have to replace them but these are still OK (no cracks out to the edge) which again tells me the 06s are easier on the rotors than 01s.

The OEM 99s are fine out back but I've heard bad things about the racing brake (rotor separating from the hat) setup so would never use those.

 

have you raced at barber? id like to see a video of that track

 

I only go to Summit and VIR both of which are about 2.5 hours from my house but would love to travel more etc......but at the same time I feel very fortunate to have two fun tracks close by.

My three excuses are $$$$, not having a reliable car and time.

I would love nothing more than traveling around and racing at different tracks but unless you've done it you can't begin to know the boundaries of the total real cost involved so it's staggering just doing the local thing. I've said it before but it's at least 3k a weekend and I go about 6 to 15 times a year.

Here's a quick example of last weekend:
50 buck entry fee (usually 369 but I instruct so I get a break there)
300 bucks 2 day hotel fee
Tires 1100 split over two events so call it 550
Front pads 300 split over 4 events so 75
rear pads 120 split over 6 events 30
Food about 75 (3 days)
Gas for the track car 200 to 300
Gas for the truck 100
Front rotors 600 over 6 events 100
Rear rotors 500 over 10 events 50

These are the expenses if nothing goes wrong approx $1650

So far this year added trans cooler 1600
New Turbo manifold and dp work alignment etc... 2k

Things coming up: New motor, possible new wing and front splitter.

The unexpected: loosing motors, transmissions, differentials, turbos, susp parts and on and on and of course the BIGGIES like........WRECKING.........OH and don't forget the tow vehicle and trailer expenses along with keeping up with expiring helmets, harnesses and general safety improvements.

Again 3k a weekend is a LOW estimate.

PS.....I love driving cars and there's no other place to drive them so IT'S WORTH EVERY PENNY.

 

Fritz, i was looking over your brake specs but i didn't see you mention anything about the MC. Does that mean you're running the stock MC? I thought most people who upgrade to front BBKs run the 929 MC.

 

I do have the 929 MC at this time but you don't need it with a BBK. I used the stock MC with the brembo GT kit for about 4 years until the engine died and then while the engine was out swapped to the 929 and really didn't notice much if any difference.

WELL the jury is back with the results on the oil cooled only T04e and it received the death sentence. PFS had the car on the dyno the turbo is shot

Does anyone happen to remember when I got the new oil only t04e I'm trying to figure out how long it lasted?

 

Damn sorry to hear about the turbo , I dont think I've been around long enough to know when you put it

do you have any idea , on what you will replace the turbo with?

 

Thanks for the info Fritz. I was wondering if i needed to upgrade my MC after i installed my BBK. Good to know that the stock MC is still sufficient.

Good luck with getting the car back up and running...why not go with a GTX35R? should be a good turbo for the track. I'm running a standard GT35R and i'm making 10psi at 3200rpm which is where i leave it for street driving. That gives me roughly 300rwhp to play with which i've found to be more than enough. I hear the GTX35R spools even quicker.

 

2013 has been a wild ride

Start off with a good car after PFS replaced the turbo manifold/fixed DP etc..... and it was running great. Ran a personal best 1.341 on the VIR north course during the THSCC time trial with a vitory and FTD.

Follow this up with another personal best on the Summit Point Main course with a 1.185 and another victory in nasa TT2.

Next comes the Mod mag event which was a blast hanging with the FD crowd

Trans was moving more and more and figured it was the motor mounts, engine was low on power (PFS had compression tested it at around 80psi) so we knew it was close to rebuild time, trans was grinding in 2nd pretty bad and wanted to install a lower 5th etc.... basically the whole car was a wreck.

So I decided to have motor rebuilt etc.... and possibly make the NASA hyperfest event and definitely the UTCC which I was really looking forward to.

Well as it turns out the build took longer than expected. PPF was cracked almost in half (no wonder the trans/shifter was moving around) so PFS did a super cool custom PPF (basically a mad max weld up job on the stock bar/extra steel going every which way....need to take a pic of this thing it is BAD ***). The motor was done because of a corner seal etc... so I had to get some engine parts together etc...etc.... Eccentric performance (allrotor93) donated some ALS apex seals and I used the best of what I had to put together a decent motor. Also had the trans rebuilt etc...etc.... All this takes longer than expected so I miss the UTCC event and when I get the car back my wife takes it for some break in miles and accidentally rips the front bumper off which had just been worked up with custom ducting etc..... no worries it could use some paint and the car needed a retune ... LOL.

So back to PFS for some bumper repair, and tune..... Bumper is no big deal but during the tune PFS discovers the turbo is bad so I drop off one I have laying around and it gets installed with all the usual custom this and that so there are no exhaust leaks, dump tube is set up etc.....

Get the car back and it's FAST!!!!!! and can't wait to get it on track so sign up for the last TT event of the year with NASA. Can't find the less expensive c71 hankooks so decide to go all out with A6s

Now I have fresh motor, trans, turbo setup, FAST tires etc.... I think I'm going to kick some serious *** but to my disappointment I'm .2 seconds slower than my time in the spring and this time I get beat by a full second

Sometimes the car is good and the drivers is all kinds of bad LOL.........I was braking way to early everywhere and like usual mr smooth was anything but smooth just could not get the car to lay down power/lots of sliding around in the technical/talent section of the track also could not figure out my gearing with the 4.4 diff and the inch smaller wheel and tire set up 275 35 17 vs 275 40 17.

Weird stuff with my susp was also discovered. Apparently somebody turn all my shock setting full stiff with the exception of the front right comp which was left alone. Didn't discover this until Sun morning. After adj the susp back to normal which is actually pretty a soft 6/16 comp front 8/16 rebound front and 4/16 comp rear 5/16 rebound rear I wasn't fighting the car as much but still not getting the most out of it. No real improvement other than ran a 1.192 Sunday the last session on some slow continental slicks with 120 or so track miles on them so actually felt pretty good about that hehe.

More bad news the car is smoking badly under decel and probably needs another turbo.

Vids coming soon