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FC door windows with gutted doors?

Old 10-17-12, 12:38 PM
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FC door windows with gutted doors?

Does anybody have any creative solutions for running the side windows with the doors gutted? Pictures would be awesome.

Thanks.
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Old 10-19-12, 10:30 PM
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Do you want to use the factory glass, or lexan replacements? Do they need to go up/down?
I was thinking of making lexan copies, but they would be fixed in place. Only on the car for travel or really nasty weather.
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Old 10-20-12, 07:38 PM
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I would prefer lexan, and I don't think it will need to go up and down. I guess I could just make a strap that hold it up when I need it up, then take off the strap to take the window out?
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Old 10-20-12, 07:50 PM
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Could get creative with aluminum angle iron, used that stuff to build a mount for my airbox pretty easily.
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Old 10-22-12, 10:55 AM
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Yup. Doesn't have to be fancy. Any method that wedges the replacement window into the channel will probably work just fine.
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Old 12-10-12, 02:16 PM
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I always thought about a pinning system that allows a lexan window to fixed in a few different positions; i.e. all the way up, slightly cracked, halfway and all the way down. Just use two pins and the factory window slides.
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Old 12-10-12, 08:44 PM
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I suspect that a lexan window doesn't have the stiffness needed to run half-open. You have the lead and top edges unsupported and I think that at speed it would end up thrashing around until it broke out.

Interesting discussion though b/c I am considering gutting the doors in my FC track car for this upcoming year.

-b
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Old 12-11-12, 11:40 AM
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if i was going to do it, i would use a strap, and have it so the windows are either up, or removed from the car.

plan B would be to have the the window slide forward and backwards, like my Tr3, or an early mini http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/...ar_Front_1.jpg
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Old 12-11-12, 03:43 PM
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I just use the stock glass window. I drilled holes linting up with where the stock holes are in the glass in both the inner sill and the outter skin of the door after it folds inside the outter skin itself (if that makes sense). Then i have basically what ammounts to a couple of lag bolts that have a screw thread and a right angle head so i can do it all by hand. Holds the window in place for transport. Get to the track, unscrew the lag bolts by hand and pull the glass up and out. The only thing i cant figure out is why it leaves more of gap between the outer bottom weatherstrip...
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Old 12-11-12, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cBigganz View Post
aluminum angle iron
Is that something new? Some kind of space age alloy?

jk, I've caught myself using that phrase a few times, only had one guy look at me funny when I said it.
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Old 12-12-12, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RockLobster View Post
I just use the stock glass window. I drilled holes linting up with where the stock holes are in the glass in both the inner sill and the outter skin of the door after it folds inside the outter skin itself (if that makes sense). Then i have basically what ammounts to a couple of lag bolts that have a screw thread and a right angle head so i can do it all by hand. Holds the window in place for transport. Get to the track, unscrew the lag bolts by hand and pull the glass up and out. The only thing i cant figure out is why it leaves more of gap between the outer bottom weatherstrip...
thats a good one, simple and easy
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Old 12-12-12, 11:06 AM
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Velcro in case you have to make a hasty exit.



Plywood is lighter than a glass hatch.



Chill in the AC at the track:

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Old 12-12-12, 11:12 AM
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...you sir have rendered me speachless
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Old 12-18-12, 09:51 AM
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It's true, that thing is bizarre!

Back on topic, I'm making lexan windows that at the front will wedge in to the lip for a few inches then at the rear vertical install Hartwells, one at the top, one at the bottom.

Hartwell Window Quick Release 3 Sets 6 Total 1 5 3 4" Buttons | eBay

Need to get out? Pull the cable. Someone needs in? Press the two red buttons a la Nascar and the window pops out. This way I can run both windows to reduce resistance, just the passenger to reduce buffeting, etc.
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Old 12-18-12, 11:40 AM
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I plan on using lexan and just securing the windows in the up/closed position permenantly.
Here's a link to the thread, but it has yet to be updated since I haven't actually built the lexan windows yet, but thats the plan.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-doors-952650/
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Old 01-04-13, 02:48 PM
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On a car without a window frame, it's easy. my 240SX has about 6" of window track left inside the door with a stop at the bottom. I removed all of the hardware from the bottom of the glass, so to install/remove, I just open the door and drop the glass in through the top of the door frame. voila. 5 seconds to remove the glass.

Unfortunately, the FC has a frame that must be dealt with. not as easy.
Once the weatherstripping is removed around the frame, can you remove the window from the inside and outside, or just one direction only?

When you have the windows in/up, is your goal to keep out 100% of the rain, or just "most" of it?

just trying to think of some simple solutions. As a couple others have said, maybe just some nylon straps with snaps/buckles on them to hold the window up once you have it in place inside the frame..
I guess I just got lucky with the 240 and not having a frame to deal with.
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