SactoTodd

Been searching the forum and the inter-web, looking for a current source for a vented backing plate for my Pro7 FB. Running stock calipers and stock 13 inch wheels.

I've read MazdaComp has them, but I don't race yet so I don't qualify for purchase. I've seen some carbon fiber and aluminum for the FD, but nothing for the FB.

Does anyone with a source, or am I'm going to have to fab them myself.

I've got ducts and 3 inch hose in transit.

Thanks,

Todd

macdaddy

You used to be able to qualify for Team Support Membership with Mazdacomp if you were in the process of building your car for competition. You just need to provide some credentials (i.e. your competition license) and an expected date of first competition. I just looked at the site, and they have changed their policy about selling parts to those who aren't Team Support Members, but I don't believe they have changed the requirements for membership. If you have a competition license, go ahead and try to join. www.mazdamotorsports.com

SactoTodd

No license.

I got the car so I could attempt to get a license.

christaylor

Have you tried applying? They're generally very, VERY lenient about the rules. Try calling them up.

But, to answer your question, the MC are the best/only thing I'd use. I have them on my dad's Spec7, and modified stock plates on my car, and there's a noticeable difference. Eventually I'll either copy the MC plates or buy another set for my car.

Carl Byck

As above. I thought the Mazda omp ones were 2.5". They are expensive for what they are. AWR makes the Fc ones, they sell for ~75.00 a set. Sheet metal, and a short length of pipe is all they are, with holes drilled to match the stock backing plate. Check the size though, you are probably going to be fabbing something for 3" anyway. The reason is even with 2.5" the wheels make quick work of the ducting. Carl

sctty

My backing plates (mazda comp) are for 3" ducting...maybe there are multiple versions?. Unfortunately, packaging of the FB front suspension is not so graceful (sway bar is in the way), so the attachment point for the hose is somewhat strangely shaped and at an angle...put more succinctly I bet they'd be hard to make.

Regardless...at what, $200 (plus ducting and collectors of some sort for front valance), they should pay for themselves in relatively short order.

SactoTodd

One doesn't have to have a racing license to get in the club, but one must belong to SOME racing organization, NASA, SCCA, etc. Which of course I haven't done yet.

I did apply online, and provided the info I had.

It takes 2 weeks to process the application, and I need this for next week at Laguna Seca. I'm hosed.

Anyone have a spare set for sale?

Carl Byck

Since you have the ducts, and the hose, why dont you ghetto rig the ducting for this event. Cut a 3" hole in the stock plate, then use self tapping screws, 1" "L" brackets, and a short piece of 3" tubing L brakets to the back of the plate, and to the tubing, viola, brake ducts. If the angle is an odd one, you can cut the tubing at an angle to clear the sway bar. Carl

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

I ordered mine through Mazdacomp. I bought them through a frined who had a membership and was ordering other parts at the same time. I have mine on a GSL-SE. There are 2 different types of ducts that Mazdacomp sells. They have one set that is made for the first gens (either the 12A or 13B) and then they have another set that is made for the old IMSA GTP race cars. This is the better set and they are also the cheaper set. There are some mods that need to be done to make these fit but they are the best option. The other ones are junk compared to these when it comes to functionality.

SactoTodd

I bought the car used, pre-built, but brake ducts and backing plates aren't there.

I'll have to pull the backing plats off the parts car.

Thanks for all the help!

-Todd

NasaPro7

www.iscracing.net

Very similar to the mazda comp plates.

M

Carl Byck

Nice site.

Speed Raycer

I made my own using the stock backing plate. Get a piece of 18-20 gauge steel about 9x12. Wrap it into a circle using large worm clamps to hold it. Tack it together. Make a pie slice about half way up so that the tube folds onto itself (small slice and trim to fit). Then trim to fit and weld it to the backing plate.

I made my rotor end a little more trick and made it about an inch wide and C shaped so that the air went straight into the vanes and didn't blow on the rotor.

Personally, I like the 2.5" ducts. The 3" ducts just don't seem to fit real well and end up rubbing the tires.

sctty

Tell me about it...that tubing aint cheap and I've rubbed holes in it a few times.

I've seen a couple of solutions to this. Some ppl put longer bolts in the steering arm to limit steering travel. Others sheild the turbing with metal shroud. Here's a pic of that approach (Dave Lemon's Pro-7 car):

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faqpics/roadp7/p7011jb.jpg

DamonB

If you really wanted to go nuts I suppose you could make a short aluminum or steel tunnel that is oval in cross section to provide more space for the tire at full lock. Then you could just attach your hose to each end of the tunnel.

Speed Raycer

That'd be a good clean way to do it Damon. I've used the alum. dryer tubing for the section from the bumper to just after the area where the tire would rub. It's easy to form into an oval. From there I use the good stuff.

I may use your idea of an oval splice if I get time in the off season.

NasaPro7

I just saw this somewhere... I can't find the picture now, maybe the 25 hours of T`hill?


M.

christaylor

Holy ****, I think ISC ripped off my font... it didn't use to be on their website....