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Dry Sump Oil Tank Baffles

Old 10-16-07, 09:18 PM
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Dry Sump Oil Tank Baffles

I am designing an oil tank for a dry sump system. The tank needs to have a diameter of 5" and a volume of 2.5L. I am using a 3L soda bottle for a mock up so I can observe how the angle of the oil feed line effects the swirl and de-aeration of the oil. I am currently using a garden hose for my supply of liquid. I really need to get a pump set up so I can measure the flow rate and so I can pump a liquid with a similar viscosity to hot engine oil. This is my first attempt at an oil tank and I was wondering how to make the baffles. I was planning on making them out of Plexiglases and clear plastic tube so I can observe how it works inside the mock tank. I'm not sure what the best setup is for the baffles. Does anyone have an idea? A picture would be great....


I'm making something similar to the 5":
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Old 10-16-07, 10:28 PM
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ooooo sorry just rebuilt my peterson last week could've taken some pics for ya, the baffle is a pretty simple piece its a tube about 3'' dia. that runs from the top to the bottom of the tank with a disc welded between the outside of the inner tube and the inner wall of the tank at about 3/4's of the way up from the bottom the disk is perferated with about 6 3/4" holes outside the inner tube and is made up of a mesh inside the tube...the whole assy. just kinda floats inside the tank note the top and bottom of the tube have large cutouts for the oil to pass through. the breather port is located inside the inner tube as well as the pick-up while the scavenge return is at the top outside the tube.....hope that helps.
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Old 10-16-07, 10:49 PM
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I wish you had a picture. That helps a lot though, thanks for the info. I tried to draw what you described in MS Paint real quick. Emphasis on real quick. Please let me know if I need to change anything. I'll make this for real in Solidworks when I get these details right and post it. Thanks again!
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Old 10-17-07, 04:13 AM
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Looks ok, but don't put holes in the baffleplate directly under the "oil In" Selfexplanatory.

Ohh and don't use plexiglass, it will disintergrate when in contact with oil, you don't want that

And one last thing, Why just 2.5Liter tank, you have the opportunity to carry more oil and more oil is less stressed oil by means of cooling
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Old 10-17-07, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Kim View Post
Looks ok, but don't put holes in the baffle plate directly under the "oil In" Self explanatory.
I don't understand... could you please elaborate.

Originally Posted by Kim View Post
Ohh and don't use Plexiglases, it will disintegrate when in contact with oil, you don't want that
I am using the Plexiglases and soda bottle to mock up a see through oil tank so I can see how well my baffle design works to de-aerate the oil and prevent foaming.

Originally Posted by Kim View Post
And one last thing, Why just 2.5Liter tank, you have the opportunity to carry more oil and more oil is less stressed oil by means of cooling
This oil tank is for a Honda CBRF4i engine. The dry sump is run with an oil cooler.
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Old 10-17-07, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sereneseven View Post
the top and bottom of the tube have large cutouts for the oil to pass through.
do you mean the ends of the 3" tube are open? Like tubes? Or does the tube have holes cut into the sides?
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Old 10-17-07, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by PvillKnight7 View Post
I don't understand... could you please elaborate.
Simple and I'm sure you knew it allready.
The oil dumps down on the baffleplate, hence there should not be a hole right where it hits the baffle as it will just plummet through and make bubbles in the oil.

But you knew that allready
Attached Thumbnails Dry Sump Oil Tank Baffles-dry%2520sump%2520oil%2520tank2.jpg  
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Old 10-17-07, 05:06 PM
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I revised your sketch a little hope it helps. yes the top and bottom of the tube is open, on the bottom it has a half oval cut out to clear the oil out line to the side of the tank...same with the top for the vent tube, there is also a slit down one side about 1/2" wide which runs down the side of the tube to and end about 3" from the bottom of the tube. the mesh screen is perpendicular to the tube same as the disc note the disc is only welded to the baffle tube and the edge in contact with the tank is flanged to help support the baffle tube while the top and bottom of the tube are located by the conical shape of the peterson tank
Attached Thumbnails Dry Sump Oil Tank Baffles-oil-tank.jpg  
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Old 10-17-07, 05:40 PM
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the hole location in the baffle is not so critical with properly placed and angled in and out tubes...most including peterson have hole al the way around. the in should be angled in a manner which will defuse the oil as much as possible such as angled with the side of the tank...also many tanks have a integral return filter which both protects the oil system but also defusses the oil this is a huge benefit when the "oh ****" day comes and you realize that metal particules have spewed into every frickin line and heat exchanger..etc pain in the *** to clean. the out should also be fisheyed towards the bottom of the tank.
Attached Thumbnails Dry Sump Oil Tank Baffles-oil-tank-2.jpg   Dry Sump Oil Tank Baffles-oil-tank-3.jpg  
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