REVERE

I get the basic advantages of going widebody such as wider stance and the ability to get wider wheels but I am sure there is a lot that I am missing. I am also interested in any possible disadvantages of a widebody setup like suspension/handling issues for example
Any info you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated

I am currently running 17” GT-C’s (225F/245r), which works really well… but I want to try something different on my project car (FC) Thinking 25mm wider at front and 30mm rear.

Valkyrie

1. Makes it harder to park

2. Your tires are more expensive (MUCH more expensive).

3. The car's suspension was never intended to use super-low offset wheels, nor was it designed to handle that much grip. It'll probably be OK as long as you maintain it well...

4. The kits and installation = expensive.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

small thing, but aerodynamics get worse as the car gets bigger. although 25mm isnt gonna make much difference

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

Cons:
The fenders act like big air-brakes. That is why you see many rear sections of fenders/q-panels with vents.
Wheel bearings can wear out quicker.
More unsprung weight for springs/shocks to control.
More rotating mass to accelerate (deccelerate...same thing, I know).
Tires are BANK$$$$$.
Car will barely fit in the garage or on a dyno
Have to tell everyone the car is not a Porsche 944.

Pros:
More grip resulting in (possibly) shorter braking zones and increased cornering speed.
Looks bitching.

owen is fat

yeah what they said... tires are SICKENINGLY expensive., um OUCH!

and of course, the car will more likely feel less tossable/nimble with a widebody setup, so it depends on how you like your car to drive, sometimes a 235/255 tire setup is perfect for an FC, other times/setups you want a 285/295 tire setup


I know, old thread. yay. widebody = the b3st!

ilia

iTrader: (4)

A well executed widebody may use suspension links of increased length, to achieve more stable camber/toe curves. This is determined by the kind of slip angles your car likes to run, and there is therefore not a single correct solution, but on a car with rough (not optimal) camber and toe curves (like any car with a macphearson/semi trailing setup), longer links may be handy in getting the tires to do what you want.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget scrub radius up front if the wrong offset wheels are used to fill the width.

peejay

Huh?

I'm going to have to massively the fenders in my '84, not for huge wheels, but for the increased negative camber. The only way to get decent negative camber is with longer control arms, and the tires rub the fenders enough as it is.

Hoping to get -2 to -3 degrees, which won't kill tires too badly. By my estimation, the control arm will have to be about an inch and a quarter (32mm) longer, and my fenders are already massively rolled to clear my tires despite having as much negative camber up top as I can get before my upper spring seats (2 1/2" springs) rub the strut towers.

It's not always for massive wheels... sometimes you really need the clearance