Battery box idea
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: cali
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Battery box idea
Go to Walmart, buy a personal size cooler that fits your battery size, Bolts/fender washers through the bottom to secure it, three marine grommets in the side of the cooler, one for each wire, and one for the vent hose to the outside. Ratcheting hold downs around the cooler to secure the top,or the tie downs could also go through the floor pan and around the cooler instead of the bolt down option(stronger). Automotive weather strip if you require a completely sealed box.
Insulated/easy/cheap/strong/clean looking/no chance of shorting against the box.
If someone wanted, they could market the kit to convert coolers to battery boxes, with the end user supplying the cooler.
Flames?
Carl Byck
Insulated/easy/cheap/strong/clean looking/no chance of shorting against the box.
If someone wanted, they could market the kit to convert coolers to battery boxes, with the end user supplying the cooler.
Flames?
Carl Byck
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not sure why it wouldnt work. according to the GCR:
i think a cooler is "equivalent". does that mean if you have a gel cell you dont have to have a battery box at all? or is that still considered a wet cell?
once again the FIA rulebook owns the GCR, its a bit more specific on how to mount the battery:
http://www.fia.com/regle/REG_TEC/Ann...xtes/255-a.pdf
if located in the dirver/passenger compartment, wet cell batteries shall be in a nonconductive marine type container or equivalent.
once again the FIA rulebook owns the GCR, its a bit more specific on how to mount the battery:
Should the battery be moved from its original position, it must be attached to the body using a metal seat and two metal clamps with an insulating covering, fixed to the floor by bolts and nuts.
For attaching these clamps, bolts with a diameter of at least 10 mm must be used, and under each bolt, a counterplate at least 3 mm thick and with a surface of at least 20 cm2 beneath the metal of the bodywork.
The battery must be covered by a leak proof plastic box, attached independently of the battery. Its location is free, however if in the cockpit it will only be possible behind the front seats. In this case, the protection box must include an air intake with its exit outside the cockpit (see drawings 255-10 and 255-11).
If the battery situated in the cockpit is a dry battery, it must be protected electrically by a cover which covers it completely.
For attaching these clamps, bolts with a diameter of at least 10 mm must be used, and under each bolt, a counterplate at least 3 mm thick and with a surface of at least 20 cm2 beneath the metal of the bodywork.
The battery must be covered by a leak proof plastic box, attached independently of the battery. Its location is free, however if in the cockpit it will only be possible behind the front seats. In this case, the protection box must include an air intake with its exit outside the cockpit (see drawings 255-10 and 255-11).
If the battery situated in the cockpit is a dry battery, it must be protected electrically by a cover which covers it completely.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Battery box
I grabbed a battery box from an RV store. It fit all the requirements and it was $8. I used two sections of all-thread and a short section of flat iron for a tie down and welded the all-thread to the bottom of the car. Took me about 20 mins. The results are quite strong.
-Trent
-Trent
#10
Airflow is my life
I did that with a Coleman 6pk cooler years ago. It worked fine. Only suggestion would be to use a metal hold down tray. That plastic will NOT hold the battery down in place in an accident, turning it into a missle.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
I put an optima dry cell in the storage bin behind the passenger seat. I then secured it with a heavy duty tie down strap and locked the lid to the bin. The battery is a perfect fit inside the bin so it won't move and the strap is just some extra precaution.
I haven't been given any grief about it yet... but I mostly just do club time trials. No serious competitive racing yet.
I haven't been given any grief about it yet... but I mostly just do club time trials. No serious competitive racing yet.
#12
Mad Man
RX7Carl, I will be cutting a metal plate to fit in the bottom of the cooler, bolts through that(flat iron across the battery), and then the rest as planned. I know Damon will point out that the rules ask for a seperate tray, and cover, but I think my design is actually an improvement on the rules, and as such will work at the club level. Carl
#13
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by Carl Byck
I know Damon will point out that the rules ask for a seperate tray, and cover, but I think my design is actually an improvement on the rules, and as such will work at the club level.
I know Damon will point out that the rules ask for a seperate tray, and cover, but I think my design is actually an improvement on the rules, and as such will work at the club level.
The purpose of a strong tray is to keep the heavy battery from flying around. You'd be suprised what it can smash through when you hit something hard. Heck, I break stock FD battery trays every 6 months just from autocrossing on race tires. If the battery moves it not only acts as missle, but since the main electrical cables are attached to it the risk of electrical fire in a crash is much higher as well.
#14
Mod Powers...gone!
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree w/ DamonB in that you will probably find resistance to your "modified" battery box.
I believe they will look at it from this standpoint. You are converting something that quite simply, was never initially designed to be used as a battery box. Plain and simple. Essentially,...you are "mickey mousing" it.
Does your idea work for your purpose? It probably does.
Is it 100% safe? IMO, from a liability standpoint,...NO. Because god forbid, IF a track official gave you the thumbs up to compete, and during a run,...you got into an accident (and were hurt because of your "invention"),...guess who can get sued? The track and the racing organization. Regardless of any waiver that you may have signed. Lawyers will sue every single person/individual that they can. Why? Because the lawsuit may fail w/ one person,...so essentially they cover their bases. And regardless of whether YOU want to sue a specific individual or not,...that is not decided by you. The lawyer will take every body to court.
If you had the resources and made a battery box out of raw materials,...you may be able to use it. But in the current scenario,...odds are,....you will not.
I believe they will look at it from this standpoint. You are converting something that quite simply, was never initially designed to be used as a battery box. Plain and simple. Essentially,...you are "mickey mousing" it.
Does your idea work for your purpose? It probably does.
Is it 100% safe? IMO, from a liability standpoint,...NO. Because god forbid, IF a track official gave you the thumbs up to compete, and during a run,...you got into an accident (and were hurt because of your "invention"),...guess who can get sued? The track and the racing organization. Regardless of any waiver that you may have signed. Lawyers will sue every single person/individual that they can. Why? Because the lawsuit may fail w/ one person,...so essentially they cover their bases. And regardless of whether YOU want to sue a specific individual or not,...that is not decided by you. The lawyer will take every body to court.
If you had the resources and made a battery box out of raw materials,...you may be able to use it. But in the current scenario,...odds are,....you will not.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post