speedypete

In searching this it seems that many feel that the base maps are a joke/recipe for disaster. I want to run a DP, CB, hi-flow cat, and intake for about a year, maybe two at 12 pnds. of boost before I get upgraded twins, FP, injectors, IC and regulator. If I get a Pettit chip I would need a boost controller and would have to sell the chip when I upgrade. With the PFC, I was hoping to plug in and go, dyno tuning it when I upgrade. Some think that the base maps even need tuning. I'm stuck. Please help a newbie.

speedypete

I guess it comes down to, I don't want to invest in a boost controller, dyno tuning or a chip if not necessary at this stage...

redbase

I am currently running the base map on my PFC which I purchased in Oct. I am running intake, dp, mp, cb exhaust mods. I have my PFC on the first setting and am pushing 12.8 lbs of boost. No problems yet. During the past few days, I've had high knock values due to very cold air temps..but normally no problems.

To be both safe and to extract the most performance, it is best to have it tuned for your mods. I will tune mine as soon as I upgrade the IC. Until then, the base map should be fine.

Badog

Redbase,

You're right that you'll normally not have any problems, but please beware of the cold weather! Running higher boost with those mods and the base or PFC stock base map's temperature correction factor are not healthy for your engine. Check your INJ duty cycles. You should a healthy increase of fuel, compared to warm weather driving. You don't see that, you could be running considerably leaner. The denser air needs more fuel to remain on this side of safe.

If you don't have access to a wideband, at least add more fuel at +10C on down until the knock goes away. Start with about 5% more fuel than what is listed for +10C, -10C on down in temps.

speedypete

Thanks, this helps a bit.

redbase

Badog,

Thanks for the advice. I have noticed an increase in knock some days and I know it is due to the cold air messing up the A/F ratio.

I will add more fuel to compensate. I have been staying off the boost (WOT) during this cold weather =). I've blown two turbos and a friend has blown one engine during this time of year!! Its and expensive mistake that wont happen again soon.

redbase

Badog,

The 5% increase isn't in the water temp parameter is it? This would only increase fuel when the water temp is a certain temp. How do I increase fuel in relation to airt temp with the Commander?

SleepR1

I have the same question except I'll have a ported motor?

I am clueless when it comes to tuning? Perhaps I should just get a Pettit Unlimited ECU?

Badog

Get the PFC and get it tuned!

Badog

Settings 2 in the Fc-Edit software, using the Datalogit. Commander, can't help you. Sorry.

fitzrx7

iTrader: (1)

Add me to the list of blown motors due to Apexi's weak correction setting for cold weather. Mine bit the dust on a cold morning 40F (for FL, 30C intake temps) and I had some mild advanced timing maps that didn't help. Time to get datalogit and correct that $hit, damn worthless Commander...grrr

Jon
'93 SSM base

getting the streetport

SleepR1

Damn, you guys are scaring me with this PFC. I'm having a new Mazda motor ported right now. I will have the Power FC, but won't even get into the gas until well the motor is tuned. Will I be fine with a box-stock Power FC during the break-in period? I will have:

KD Rotary street ported motor
'99 Japan Spec (280-hp) sequential twins
Koyo rad
Apex dual intake
Greddy 2-row FMIC
downpipe/high flow cat/RB catback
Nippondenso Comp fuel pump
1300 secondary injectors

Boost will be set to 11 psi, and yes the project is slated to be complete in the Jan/Feb 2003 time frame.

It will be a month before I have 1000 miles on the motor, so March I'll be ready for a good tuning.

Anyone know of a good Apex Power FC tuner in IN, OH, KY, IL area?

Badog

Hello? PM me if you want to tune.

Edit: I see you have 1300's. Fuel wise, you'll be safe for about 380RWHP. I know the calculations say you can do more, but at what temperature? Real world experince says that at 50F you'll be max'ing not only the duty cycle but the ability of the ND pump to keep up.

I run 850/1300's and at below 50F (15psi boost) I max out. That is tuned to the 10's (overly rich...but I have never popped an engine at cool temperatures)

SleepR1

Tony,

I'm having the stock 850-cc secondaries bored out to 1300 cc. The Nippondenso Competition Fuel pump will be there to provide more flow for the 1300-cc secondaries.

I have no intention to increase the boost anywhere close to 1 Barr. The Japan sequential twins are at their max efficiency at 10.8 psi (and thus my 11 psi max boost).

The Greddy two-row FMIC apparently loses its max efficiency at 1 Barr as well, so it's safe to say that 11 psi will be WELL WITHIN the Nippondenso and 1300-cc injectors?

I've read that 850-cc primaries aren't worth it, since you use your secondaries at the higher rev ranges. Also the larger primaries lend to idling problems (won't idle well) because of too much fuel in the combustion chambers?

My focus for tuning will not necessarily be for maximum hp potential. I'm looking for a safe tune, to keep the new ported motor healthy and happy with fuel. I'd like to strike a nice balance between healthy and hp production.

I've read the Apex Power FC comes with 11:1 AFRs right out of the box? Can a box-stock Power FC be used with a ported motor during the break-in phase?

Yes I'll plan to keep you in mind for fine-tuning the car when the time comes