Power FC power FC boost setting, bar, atm or kg/ccm2
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power FC boost setting, bar, atm or kg/ccm2
I did some research that showed me 1 ATM =14.7, 1 bar=14.5 and KG/CCM=14.22 psi.
when I set my power FC lets say to 1.0, is that setting it for a target of 14.22?
and after I run, lets say it peaks at .80, does that mean its .80 X 14.22? Or is it displayed in bar or ATM?
Kinda confused thanks.
when I set my power FC lets say to 1.0, is that setting it for a target of 14.22?
and after I run, lets say it peaks at .80, does that mean its .80 X 14.22? Or is it displayed in bar or ATM?
Kinda confused thanks.
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That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
In my case, at 15PSI by boost gauge, my Blitz controller with it's own pressure sensor shows 14.7, and the PFC shows 13.4.
The PIM voltage on the PFC will be correct for the PSI by the Mazda manual.
Hook up your map sensor and boost gauge to a controllable pressure source. I use a hand air pump.
Then start at say 9 PSI working your way up to 18 psi. Do multiple test at each PSI recording the pressure of all devices. This will give you an idea of what is going on and which device is more accuarate.
In my case, at 15PSI by boost gauge, my Blitz controller with it's own pressure sensor shows 14.7, and the PFC shows 13.4.
The PIM voltage on the PFC will be correct for the PSI by the Mazda manual.
Hook up your map sensor and boost gauge to a controllable pressure source. I use a hand air pump.
Then start at say 9 PSI working your way up to 18 psi. Do multiple test at each PSI recording the pressure of all devices. This will give you an idea of what is going on and which device is more accuarate.
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Originally posted by cewrx7r1
That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
In my case, at 15PSI by boost gauge, my Blitz controller with it's own pressure sensor shows 14.7, and the PFC shows 13.4.
The PIM voltage on the PFC will be correct for the PSI by the Mazda manual.
Hook up your map sensor and boost gauge to a controllable pressure source. I use a hand air pump.
Then start at say 9 PSI working your way up to 18 psi. Do multiple test at each PSI recording the pressure of all devices. This will give you an idea of what is going on and which device is more accuarate.
That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
In my case, at 15PSI by boost gauge, my Blitz controller with it's own pressure sensor shows 14.7, and the PFC shows 13.4.
The PIM voltage on the PFC will be correct for the PSI by the Mazda manual.
Hook up your map sensor and boost gauge to a controllable pressure source. I use a hand air pump.
Then start at say 9 PSI working your way up to 18 psi. Do multiple test at each PSI recording the pressure of all devices. This will give you an idea of what is going on and which device is more accuarate.
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Originally posted by cewrx7r1
That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
In my case, at 15PSI by boost gauge, my Blitz controller with it's own pressure sensor shows 14.7, and the PFC shows 13.4.
...
That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
In my case, at 15PSI by boost gauge, my Blitz controller with it's own pressure sensor shows 14.7, and the PFC shows 13.4.
...
Last edited by Badog; 09-03-03 at 11:14 AM.
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ZeroBanger...
It's not 25% over your target boost, it's 0.25 kg/cm² over your target (page 28 of the PFC manual). E.g, if target boost is set at 0.80 and you hit 1.05, it will fuel cut. If target boost is 1.0, you'd have to hit 1.25 to fuel cut.
It's not 25% over your target boost, it's 0.25 kg/cm² over your target (page 28 of the PFC manual). E.g, if target boost is set at 0.80 and you hit 1.05, it will fuel cut. If target boost is 1.0, you'd have to hit 1.25 to fuel cut.
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#8
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Originally posted by skotx
ZeroBanger...
It's not 25% over your target boost, it's 0.25 kg/cm² over your target (page 28 of the PFC manual). E.g, if target boost is set at 0.80 and you hit 1.05, it will fuel cut. If target boost is 1.0, you'd have to hit 1.25 to fuel cut.
ZeroBanger...
It's not 25% over your target boost, it's 0.25 kg/cm² over your target (page 28 of the PFC manual). E.g, if target boost is set at 0.80 and you hit 1.05, it will fuel cut. If target boost is 1.0, you'd have to hit 1.25 to fuel cut.
Last edited by ZeroBanger; 09-03-03 at 02:47 PM.
#9
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Originally posted by cewrx7r1
That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
That is fine except the PFC in most peoples cars show boost incorrectly. Most PFCs show a lower boost than what is true. Notice that with power on and the engine off, the PFC show vacuum.
I have noticed the exact same thing. My Boost contorler shows exactly the same as my boost gauge, but my pfc is always low. Even when the car is off. The Boost controler and gauge will show 0.00 and the pfc shows .200 or so.
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