I don't think I am getting any fuel. mechanically it seems okay, everything is hooked up and fuel pump primes.

I am using the pfc with commander only for now (datalogit on the way) and I'd like to just start and idle the motor. from the way it was delivered, here is what I have changed in the pfc settings.

- in settings-injector , I have my primaries set to 850 (stockers) and secondaries set to 1500 (running the KG parts fuel system w/ 1680's, with resistors)

-in settings-injector , I have the FrPr and RrPr set to 64.5% (as per the PFC manual's injector pulse correction calculation of 550/850= 0.647) and the injector lag time at +.02ms.

- and in etc.-function select I have the sequential turbo control disabled, and the O2 sensor control disabled (as I don't have one at all).

That's it!

any ideas? I am going to pick up another set of leading spart plugs incase they're no good, and other than that I'm stumped. thanks for humoring me, I am very green on using the pfc. (please don't tell me to sell my car, we all have to start somewhere)


My current mods are like this:
-large street port
-A-spec gt35r short runner kit
-KG-parts fuel system w/ stock 850's as primaries, 1680 secondaries & aeromotive fpr. walbro 255 pump
-stock ignition system

 

Since its been sitting for so long you have to consider a few things:

Oil starvation- prime oil system by spinning it but not starting it
Leakage- check other fluids make sure they are all there
Gas- This is the biggest one over time gas DOES go bad if sitting long enough it can cause injectors to clog. Make sure you have some good gas in there.
Plugs- Sure new plugs couldn't hurt but probably not an issue unless they are fouled.

Other- Check your FPD to make sure its not leaking, fuel system can be primed and pump tested with the Diagnostic Port gnding F/P

Often when running 850 injectors and correcting the way you do you still have to add a bit more fuel because they don't atomize as well as the 550s. You should be able to see/ smell gas esp if you take your plugs out. If you do it might be flooded and run the unflood procedure.

It is much easier to diagnose a car that doesn't start then one that runs poorly.

 

I did prime it for oil, and it has new gas. I just got some plugs so I'll throw them in, but I'm 99% sure its not getting fuel because like you said, you would smell it especially w/ a plug out.

thanks for the reply

 

then check spark and fuel. If you don't get any of those - it's electrical issue.

 

are you saying that it cranks and cranks and cranks but doesn't fire up? Or does it starts for a split second and then immediately dies?

 

the first one, it doesn't fire or even try.

pretty much I'm expecting a mechanical or electrical issue, but if anyone familiar with the pfc sees a problem with my settings that could cause this, then thats what I'd like to know. thanks.

 

When I went to buy my car it was stock but had sat for over 2 years. I simply replaced the coils and changed the plugs and she fired right up. Obviously I did regular maintenance before I started it. Not saying it's only your plugs but it was a huge factor in why mine wouldn't even stutter.

 

For Fuel in your case.
Check the connectors on the eccentric shaft position sensors.
Check to makes sure you have fuel flowing through your lines at the right pressure.

 

and obviously check your fuses. such as the egi fuse, check for spark, pull the upper manifold and apply voltage to the injectors see if they click.. are the plugs wet?

 

update: not much change

I got a new map sensor (and connector, I never realized the old one had been hardwired in w/out a connector!)

can someone tell me what the Map sensor voltage reading is when you go key on (motor not running)? My pfc commander has the pim voltage highlighted, and its sitting at 4.86v. I am assuming this is not correct since its highlighted. The pfc manual doesn't tell what a highlighted reading means though. could this be why no fuel?

also, I do have fuel pressure at 38 psi.

 

yeah thats too high voltage on the MAP sensor. it seems like it would be dumping too much fuel with that extra high voltage, unless the PFC cuts fuel when the map sensor is faulty or reading unusual numbers like that the Either way that needs fixed. FSM says what the voltage for the MAP sensor should be. Around 2.49 is what it should be with the key in the on position.

 

yeah, the problem with the fsm is it only tells you what the Map reading should be while the engine is running. I cannot achieve that yet.

also, maybe refer to this thread to see a possible problem: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/pls-help-me-identify-these-connectors-750238/

btw, thanks for the replies.

 

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG... she ran for a couple seconds!

I was looking in the right place in the thread in my above post. One of the connectors looks different(color) on my new emissions harness, and I was confused on the subharness that is supposed to control the fans after the motor is shut down I think.

anyway, she started, unwillingly. The motor didn't idle on its own for more than 3 seconds, and it was barely running at about 500-600rpms.

I still have the settings described in my 1st post. can you check that vs. my mods listed and give some ideas on helping me smooth out (or forcing) an idle? I made sure my idle bleed screw on the bottom of the TB is 1/2 turn out. do you think the base map is simply too lean for my large street port?

 

no i dont think the base map is too lean for a large street port, if anything you might need to lean it out even more. The street port changes the load characteristics of the engine so the fuel maps don't line up the same. i think the base map is tuned a bit rich.

you might start with the bleed screw out further, or screw so the idle would be higher then normal. you can always go down with the idle.

i had a hell of a time getting my rebuilt street ported engine to start and run right. the car kept flooding. then i upgraded to a twin power which helped alot, and put a different kind of plug in which also seemed to help out alot. But have you been having trouble with flooding at all? have you looked at the plugs to see if they are fouled out. Get new plugs for sure

 

I haven't checked the plugs yet, but they are brand new. thanks.

 

when my car was flooding i went through several sets of new plugs, i finally changed to a different design that i think seem to works better.

They are NGK B9EGV i got them at oreilly autoparts for 4 somthing a piece. they were a little cheaper then the factory plugs and seem to fire better and dont foul as easily. They need a special thin socket, or a regular one turned down on a lathe. (thats what i did)

Definitely check your plugs out and see how they look